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How does it start? Does it fire after a couple of cranks at most, or does it have to crank for 5-20 seconds?
Hey G….You should have some good input from some very experienced guys on this forum.Getting info from Jim at 22RE Performance is a good idea.The compression check and leakdown tests should tell you what’s going on with your engine.From your description I have a bad feeling it’s got head gasket issues, and a quart of oil in 1,000 miles is excessive and you will probably get some low compression numbers.Before you decide to rebuild the engine, I highly recommend you do lots and lots of research and get lots of opinions from some experts and those suppliers of parts. In my limited experience, there seems to be DIYers out there that can do a rebuild very successfully and those who have problems. If you choose to buy a long block as an option to rebuilding the block from scratch, I highly suggest you do lots of research into who’s long block will work best for your budget and desired quality level.I believe that to rebuild one of these early Toyota engines takes a lot more skills, knowledge, time, and money if you want it to go 200K or 300K miles, than some guys have claimed.Gnarls.
Another question: Do you use synthetic oil? I seem to remember hearing tales of synthetic oil leaving white smoke when it burned.A leak down test will tell you more than a compression test and more than I ever can from the other end of an internet connection.
I have never had a 2 gauge leak down kit. I have found a made in the USA leak down kit and a compression kit from GSI. Would I need both?
Here's my latest purchase:...https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3612-Compression-Tester-Piece/dp/B000EVU89I/ref=pd_di_sccai_1/142-5226433-2262460?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000EVU89I&pd_rd_r=dd9b712e-b547-4df7-82d9-0e55b0d1d819&pd_rd_w=QKOx5&pd_rd_wg=3Y6WX&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=3T3MH40QVFW5JKGXP9V4&psc=1&refRID=3T3MH40QVFW5JKGXP9V4https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5609-Cylinder-Leakage-Tester/dp/B0030EVL60/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=leakdown+test+kit&qid=1610309998&sr=8-12There are lots of choices and prices range.White smoke at start up is typically steam/coolant from cracked head or blown head gasket. White smoke after normal op can be synthetic oil burning. Oil burning should be seen during hard acceleration. Have you pulled the spark plugs?Gnarls.
Your truck is exhibiting many symptoms of coolant leaking into one or more cylinders, whether by a blown head gasket or a cracked head or block. A distant second would be burning synthetic oil.Oil burning at start up can happen if you park your truck facing uphill and a pool of oil stays under the valve cover and drips past the valve guides and seals into cylinder #4; mine has done this on a few occasions.My experience with blown headgaskets is rather limited, but the one vehicle I had with a bad head gasket had to crank for about 20 seconds before it could clear the moisture out of the cylinders and fire.If you have unlimited budget, I would get both the compression tester and leak down tester. If I had only one, my personal preference would be the leak down tester.
Release the pressure of the radiator as soon as you can after shutdown (wait until it won't boil over with release of pressure).This will prevent the cooling system pressure from forcing coolant into the engine as it cools overnight.See what happens next day.
A leak down tester requires compressed air.
What are your plans for it, restore and drive as a nice old daily, or build it for trail use and daily driving?
Here's the dipstick. Read towards the bottomhttps://209yota1.com/products/dipstick-oem-22r-re-rte-85-95/
Can anyone tell me a downside to doing the swap as opposed to the rebuild? If I rebuild I will likely need a newer block
Hey G...I have not done a 3RZ swap, so I can only comment on my years of being an automotive enthusiast.The Pros and Cons should be more or less obvious.Rebuilding an engine means you can blueprint it and if done right, should go 200,000+ miles. It can be built the way you want it.Swaps can be risky if you are swapping a used “donor” engine.Swaps are almost always more time consuming and out-of-pocket than predicted.Although the 3RZ is a awesome engine at 150HP and 177 lb-ft of torque with a reliability factor that is legendary, a 22RE stroker can be a beautiful rebuild at 130HP and 160 lb-ft of torqued.Keeping the vehicle “stock-like” is always a plus.Gnarls – that’s just my opinion – it may be worthless.
You would go stroker? If I have an engine built I’ll get Jim to build it for me. What’s your thoughts on pairing it with the R151f?
Trail use and daily driving. I’ve got a line on an R151f transmission and transfer case. I would like to put my case behind the case on the R151f. I also have acquired a power steering gear box and other items for a p/s upgrade. I plan to go high steer. My plan is to put some 4.88s in it with either air lockers or elockers. I’ve got 31s on it now but woukd like to run 33-34” tires
Thanks. I had actually found this after a conversation with Jim at 22reperformance. I’m going to hold off until I figure out if I am going to rebuild or do a 3rz swap. Can anyone tell me a downside to doing the swap as opposed to the rebuild? If I rebuild I will likely need a newer block
Here are my thoughts on this. If you're already considering 34s, go 35s and 5.29s.I think the down side to a 3rz is finding one. Having driven a 3rz in a taco, power wise, the 22re isnt even comparable to a 3rz. I dont think there is anything you could do to a 22re to compete with a 3rz power wise. If you are wheeling in the mountains (steep hills) the efi alone is worth it. That said, the 22r/re is a legend, and a great motor. Neither a rebuild or a swap are with out risk. Things outside your control can go south with both.If you do a swap make sure to document the vin # from the doner and if wiring isnt your thing buy a harnes from ORS or toyonly swaps. Then if you ever have issues you are working with a known system.ETA: My 22re swapped 1980 will get a 3rz... if I can ever find one.
Just another perspective on “power”.I have driven my 3 early Toy pickups close to 500,000 all together.My 1st 86 was automatic longbed, 22RE 116 HP. My 85 short bed was a 22R 5-speed 96HP, and my current 1986 Xtracab is a 22RE 5-speed. Therew were many times I would have loved to another 50 or 60 HP -- in the Glamis sand dunes and in the Cinders in Northern AZ. When on an overnighter or trip to Mexico, loaded down with camping gear, food, water, and fuel, crossing the big sand dunes in Sonora Mexico was hard. With a bed full of gear, climbing long steep grades on the freeway meant getting in 3rd gear sometimes and 4,000 RPM, and slowing down 45 MPH, being passed by a semi sucked.BUT in all my times driving my trucks as daily driver, and rockcrawling every other weekend, the little engines did just fine. My 22R got 20 MPH all day long. My 1st 86 22RE got 25 MPH with a SnugTop on it.It’s a little pickup and was designed and built to go 200K or 300K miles. And it is arguably practically indestructible. I have wheeled with all kinds of 4x4s, and the number of times a Toyota broke on a trail was 1/100th of the times a Jeep, Bronco, Blazer, Hummer, or some other vehicle would break.Of course, I’d give my left testicle to have a little 1UR-FSE or GM L99 in it.If I ever do a conversion, it ain't going to be for a 30 HP!Gnarls.
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