Author Topic: Transmission Output Shaft Seal - 90311-34011MC Discontinued?  (Read 374 times)

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mrspib

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Refreshing a R155F from a 2009 Tacoma with the Marlin crawl box, and it had a Marlin Crawler-stamped seal with part number 90311-34011MC. This part number no longer returns any results on the website.

Discontinued?
Replacement part number available?
What are my options?

I tried an OEM seal and it failed within 2,000-miles  :down:

Gnarly4X

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https://www.yoyopart.com/oem/10898604/toyota-9031134011.html

Base upon my very limited experience I would only buy a Timken or Toyota as an alternate.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

MEMBER: NRA, GOA, SAF "I'm sorry, if you were right, I'd agree with you" ~ Robin Williams

mrspib [OP]

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Ah-ha! Good catch on the MC part number matching the factory number. I only had a seal kit, not the individual part numbers. Nice to have both now!

I'll call MC and see if they might have something kicking around that will work. I'm hesitant to throw another factory seal in there, given the lip profile differences, and how each fits into the input of the crawl box. The factory seal is noticeably more snug, which (I believe) allowed it to catch and rip on install (bench install, lip and shaft greased, minimal force). The MC seal wasn't leaking (I should have just left it alone), yet fits a little looser, allowing the seal lip to 'bump-up' onto the input shaft easier.

I'll report back!

mrspib [OP]

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Spoke with sales and gave them the '90311-34011MC' stamped on my existing MC seal. They came back with the 'MCSE-512EC' 23-spline output seal, still widely available on their site.

I'll compare when seals arrive, but it sounds promising!   :clap:

Gnarly4X

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Hey mrspib,

Glad you got to MC and a new part number.

I understand what you mean about these press/pound in metal case seals.  I have struggled with them more than once.

If the seal outside diameter is a teeny bit too big, it can cause the rubber around the metal can to tear.

If the seal too loose, then potential leaks are likely.

I try to clean the seal housing really good with solvent and take a small of 800 grit emery cloth and rub it around the seal housing to check for any small burrs at the very edge of housing.

I check the shaft to make sure its smooth and no burrs or nicks.

If the shaft is grooved, I measure how much to determine if the new seal lip will have a problem sealing.

I use light coat of silicon spray on seal to lube it. 

As you know, not getting the seal cocked as it is inserted and seated is the key.

From my unscientific comparison of input shaft seals on my 1986 5-speed, I found a big difference in design, quality and construction between suppliers.


Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

MEMBER: NRA, GOA, SAF "I'm sorry, if you were right, I'd agree with you" ~ Robin Williams

emsvitil

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Is this the seal between the transmission and transfer case or the one on the end of the transfer for the driveshaft?
Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

mrspib [OP]

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Is this the seal between the transmission and transfer case or the one on the end of the transfer for the driveshaft?

Between transmission output and crawl box input. I noticed mine had gone bad when the crawl box repeatedly over-flowed with fluid  :willynilly:

mrspib [OP]

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Hey mrspib,

Glad you got to MC and a new part number.

I understand what you mean about these press/pound in metal case seals.  I have struggled with them more than once.

If the seal outside diameter is a teeny bit too big, it can cause the rubber around the metal can to tear.

If the seal too loose, then potential leaks are likely.

I try to clean the seal housing really good with solvent and take a small of 800 grit emery cloth and rub it around the seal housing to check for any small burrs at the very edge of housing.

I check the shaft to make sure its smooth and no burrs or nicks.

If the shaft is grooved, I measure how much to determine if the new seal lip will have a problem sealing.

I use light coat of silicon spray on seal to lube it. 

As you know, not getting the seal cocked as it is inserted and seated is the key.

From my unscientific comparison of input shaft seals on my 1986 5-speed, I found a big difference in design, quality and construction between suppliers.


Gnarls.

That's a great point about surface prep. These seals apparently can be -very- picky!

 
 
 
 
 

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