Topic: Clutch replacement additional things I should also replacement

[Phantomyota93]

Well I’m about to replacement my clutch in my 93 Toyota pick up 22re 5 speed because well normal wear and tear and plus it’s probably Never had a one put it in knowing the history of the truck. But During the time I have to work on it, I want to make sure I got everything I need just in case. Don’t wanna have to turn right around to work on same general area which I mean never fails. I’m in the process of learning but I need tips for now and future reference. I’ve seen things include main seal, shifter bearing and so on. Also looking to replace a lot in the front suspension. It has a shake in between 50 to 70ish then like above 75 to 85 it rides as smooth as you can get for that truck. I’m thinking tie rods ends, ball joints, ider arms, shocks, bearings(whatever ones would be best or recommend replaceing after 230,000+ miles and more but can’t think right off the top of my head. I would like to put better than average parts back on to it but I know some or most parts are best left oem. I’ve replacement the valve cover gasket, I’m looking forward to work on my truck but I’m not trying to go at this unprepared. I wanna take care of my baby! Lol let me hear what y’all got. I appreciate it! 

[Slabzilla]

   Replace the clutch, pressureplate, throwout and pilot bearings with Toyota or Marlin sets.  The front end parts should be Toyota or Moog, in my experience.  Happy wheeling.   

[emsvitil]

Surface the flywheel.

Make the step on the flywheel .026"

[Gnarly4X]

Welcome to the forum.

I would definitely replace the seal (Toyota factory) and gasket on the input shaft housing.

Having to drop the tranny is the 2nd most dreaded thing I've done on my Toy trucks!!

Gnarls.

[RUGER]

  to 

what everyone else said.

id recommend making or rent/borrow/buy a slide hammer to get the pilot bearing out. ive packed grease behind the bearing and used a bolt roughly the size of the hole and hit it with a hammer to compress the grease and pop it out. sometimes it works and sometimes it dont. slide hammer works every time.

RUGER 

[OVRAROK]

If it was me...id do clutch master/slave..MC stainless steel line to replace rubber line..
I like to use bread..yeah..thats right, bread to get pilot bearing out.. may as well do rear main seal on engine..and front seal on transmission..you hopefully aren't back in there for another 200k..

[Snowtoy]

X2 on doing the clutch slave and master.  As long as your replacing tie-rod ends, ball-joints, etc., might as well and do the upper and lower A-arm bushings, and only do one alignment.

[Gnarly4X]

On a rebuild or restore you can get crazy with replacing parts.

If you have a fat budget or you want to melt a credit card, that's fine.

Looking at it from my more conservative perspective...

I tend to be on the frugal side, so I look at need vs cost - I have skinny budget.

With that said, compromising a critical part on quality (some quality parts can be had without overpaying) will usually come back to bite you.

I agree that replacing the clutch slave cylinder is a good idea any time you replace a clutch and pressure plate that has high mileage.

Unless the clutch master cylinder is leaking, I'd probably wait on that.

Unless the rubber brake lines are showing age cracks or leaking, replacing rubber brake lines with stainless steel or braided lines in the front end is not a bad idea if you are wheeling a lot, otherwise I'd wait and keep my eye on them.

For sure... replace the rear crank seal, input shaft housing seal and gasket, and clutch slave cylinder - along with your clutch kit.  On the flywheel, if it is not showing surface wear or heat stress, simply sanding it with emery cloth on flat block has worked for me.  If in doubt, it is worth buying a new one.

Regarding that pilot bearing!!  The little bugger does not want to be replaced.  I have tried every well-known trick and tool to get it out of end of the crankshaft and none of them have worked for me!  So.. I made my own tool in about 5 minutes and it pulled the bearing out in less that 10 seconds.

On the front end and steering, I'd put the front end on jack stands and actuate the front steering and get a good look at just what parts are needing replaced.

I've attached a photo.


Of course replacing ALL the parts is always a better way to go!

That's just my pomp 'n stink as H8TPVMT would say.

Gnarls.

[arlindsay1992]

I would not buy Moog. Their parts for our trucks are junk. The seals are junk and the joints themselves wear out super fast.

[83_P/U_4x4]

If this post is not too late you should also look at replacing the rear mail seal on the engine and if your engine oil pan is leaking like mine was, then try to reseal it as well. The parts are cheap and its easy to do. While you can fix the oil pan without removing the transmission, the same can't be said for the the rear main seal so fixing that while you have the tranny out is of coarse mad convenient.

[emsvitil]

What looks like an engine rear main seal leak on the 20-22Rs is often the half-moon plug on the valve cover above it..........

[Gnarly4X]

What looks like an engine rear main seal leak on the 20-22Rs is often the half-moon plug on the valve cover above it..........

2X.

Gnarls.