Author Topic: Pvc valve eliminated with Weber Sidedraft upgrade. OIL IS SHOOTING OUT OF THE BREATHERS on my valve  (Read 2512 times)

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rabidfox

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I've read several threads on various solutions,  including a road draft tube and pvc valve, but none were really specific to my setup, and both had mixed reviews. Basically I rebuilt my 22r, I made a couple upgrades including eliminating the smog and going with dual side draft carburetors (weber Dcoe40s). I put two breathers on the pvc hole and the more forward hole on the valve cover.. it seems like oil is just raining out of these breathers. the forward one is clearly soaked and the back one is shooting oil up into the hood and raining down dousing the entire engine compartment. Wtf. Also it seems I've this is bursting all of the seals in the valve cover, that seem to be leaking oil as well.. a friend said I should just run the breathers on long tubes to collect the oil and redirect it away from getting on everything.. is there a better way to fix this problem, rather than just directing the mess elsewhere?

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Gnarly4X

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.. is there a better way to fix this problem, rather than just directing the mess elsewhere?


Again… without any details on the engine, we are asked to pull a magic rabbit out of hats. :headscratch:

That much blowby and crankcase pressure usually means you have a serious issue – blown head gasket, rings/pistons, or cracked block.

While eliminating the PVC valve is not uncommon, it has been designed in for a reason – connected to an intake manifold port, it will create a vacuum to offset the typical crankcase pressures.

Have you done a compression check or leakdown test? :dunno:

Gnarls.  :inthedark:

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~16,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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MEMBER: WWP, T2T, VFW, NRA, GOA, SAF, Mammoth Nation, C2 Tactical, Hillsdale College, Humane Society of the U.S. - "We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used to create them." ~ Albert Einstein

rabidfox [OP]

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I purchased this motor off Craigslist, 22RE (came off a celica), my first rebuild. The block was bored to 0.001.

From lCEngineering:

   -economy Master rebuild kit
- street performer cam shift
   - dual row timing chain with metal guides
   -chromoly connecting rods
  -street header kit
  -dui distributor
 
from Redline:

  -2 Weber DCOE40s
 I removed all the smog equipment
-Carter electric fuel pump

Got my top rebuilt by PCA Auto Parts
I have a 3 row aluminum radiator, and I've used Evans waterless coolant since the start

The truck runs great at times, then starts acting up after a lot of driving. The compression is   the spark plugs look fine, and temperature doesn't often go over 160 (I've been meaning to swap out the thermostat from 160 to 180). Also the oil pressure is great. It doesn't seem like its a bigger problem, its just losing oil and its a cussing mess.  I've had some help (some good, and some not so good). I can't afford the have the good help come, and since I'm not working right now, i can do the work myself, I just need to be pointed.

 I dont know what other information would  help you, help me. I dont know if anything I wrote is relevant or useful to diagnosis, but thats all I could muster right now. If you need actual numbers for compression, I can run it again and get back to u...
 Thanks


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Lewis Hein

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My truck had the PCV hose come loose at the intake manifold and the mess was far greater than what you are showing. Disclaimer: I may not be able to see the full extent of the mess in the pictures. My engine is also kinda old with okay-ish compression.

Also, oil gets splashed everywhere inside a running engine, so just a little bit of positive crankcase pressure will make it ooze out wherever it can (like a breather). If you have good compression, you can do a leakdown test, but I would suggest replacing the PCV system.

Hope this helps! If replacing the PCV system does not help my next step would be a leakdown test.

rabidfox [OP]

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Weber didn't make accomidations for og pcv system.. would you suggest I drill a hole in the manifold in order to make a port to the top of the valve cover?

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Gnarly4X

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Hey r…

How many miles on the engine since you rebuilt it?

Has it always blown oil or did it start suddenly?

What did the machine shop do to the block?... bore, probably .010” not .001”.

Was the block magnafluxed or sonic tested?

For that engine, normal crankcase pressure is around 1psi.  With higher than normal pressure, and no PVC valve connected to vacuum port, there will be oil and oil vapor from the rocker cover blowing out where it can, and if you have 2 air filters on top, oil is going to blow through those filters.

Blowby is typically fuel leaking past the rings under compression stroke.  Your dual carbs may be creating a very rich mixture and thinning the oil in the cylinder walls.
Weber carbs are sensitive.  What fuel pressure is required for dual 40s? Did you check the fuel pressure?

What is the oil viscosity you are running?

Can you smell raw gas at those breather filters?

Start the engine, remove the oil filter cap and hold your hand over the hole.  Can you feel pressure in rapid puffs?

A leakdown test should confirm that the head gasket is good.

How did you sync and balance the dual Webers?

You could contact the manufacturer of the intake manifold and ask them if you can drill and install a vacuum port fitting.  I would not drill a hole in the carb unless Weber says its OK.

Your list reads like a quality rebuild.  I would like to know what the numbers were on your compression test and at what mileage after rebuild was completed.

I would definitely install a factory thermostat.

What is your elevation and climate?

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Sep 06, 2020, 04:32:35 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~16,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

God Bless Our Troops... Especially Our Snipers. The 2nd defends the 1st
MEMBER: WWP, T2T, VFW, NRA, GOA, SAF, Mammoth Nation, C2 Tactical, Hillsdale College, Humane Society of the U.S. - "We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used to create them." ~ Albert Einstein

Gnarly4X

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1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~16,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

God Bless Our Troops... Especially Our Snipers. The 2nd defends the 1st
MEMBER: WWP, T2T, VFW, NRA, GOA, SAF, Mammoth Nation, C2 Tactical, Hillsdale College, Humane Society of the U.S. - "We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used to create them." ~ Albert Einstein

79coyotefrg

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Weber didn't make accomidations for og pcv system.. would you suggest I drill a hole in the manifold in order to make a port to the top of the valve cover?

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get me a picture of the bottom of the intake manifold or just look for a common port on the bottom.  BUT if you dont find a port then yes.  dril a 1/4 inch hole in the rear intake for the PCV valve   and in the front part for that other filter.  I ran a filter like that on mine years ago and it had negligible amount of blow by BUT it would spit oil all over the underside of the hood and engine.
I have a twin side draft intake somewhere in storage but yes.  if you cant find a port on the bottom  you need to make one
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

rabidfox [OP]

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I have twin side drafts as well.. I ended up using one of the valve cover ports to the airbox for my carbs.. added a catch can on the way.. works decently

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