Topic: Puerto Frito ‘87 4x4

[PuertoFrito]

The place I've seen most Rockies was southern Chile. I spent a couple weeks poking around Concepción a few years ago and there was a Rocky (Feroza) under every rock.

Markets in América Latina tend to have great collections of old automotive gems. I’ve never seen so many Samurais before living in PR. A decent amount have been lowered, front diff removed, and rotary swapped.

[PuertoFrito [OP]]

This quarantine has got me going through old photos when we could drive anywhere at anytime. 


https://youtu.be/h7-VPcPFQE0


Old tires #flex

Corredor Ecológico del Noreste, Luquillo, PR

Los Térmites

Back in the day (around y2k) on my old PW80 somewhere in Chillicothe, OH

Oh and I added to the interior flare today as well (phone charger)

[Lewis Hein]

Markets in América Latina tend to have great collections of old automotive gems. I’ve never seen so many Samurais before living in PR. A decent amount have been lowered, front diff removed, and rotary swapped.

Oooh yeah. Some of my favorites were:

 - Early model Datsun pickups, pretty much the workhorses in Comas (the working-class district of Lima where I lived). One even had "Toyota 4x4" written on the side with a sharpie
 - Toyota Stout pickups running around (comparatively) everywhere
 - Pretty much every model of vehicle ever converted to run on CNG
 - Datsun sedans from the 70s and 80s
 - Toyota Coronas
 - Mahindra trucks and SUVs. (Not the greatest quality but boy are they so simple, old-school, and coooooool)
 
There are literally no (meaningful) emissions laws either, which keeps a lot of old vehicles going longer. Before you decide that is a good idea, try finding an oxygen molecule to breathe in Lima 

[PuertoFrito [OP]]

I’m planning to move back to my home state of KY soon and have been looking all over for a decent pickup or 4Runner. Check out this gem located in IN

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2697180023742432/

[Snowtoy]

It is clean inside, I wonder what kind of rust issue it has with it being an Indiana truck?

[PuertoFrito [OP]]

It is clean inside, I wonder what kind of rust issue it has with it being an Indiana truck?

The unfortunate gamble of trucks from the southeast/midwest. My current rig’s frame is 100% rust free, not even minor surface rust. However my floor pans are toast and, this is probably true for most of these trucks, the window and door seals aren’t doing what they should. I’ll put some pics of that up I’ve been messing around with fiberglass and resin repairing body work for the first time. One day I’ll teach myself how to weld or maybe take some classes and do it right

[PuertoFrito [OP]]

I’ll go ahead and add to the “horn don’t work good” discussion. This truck was involved in a front end collision at some point in its life, hence the 2wd grille, which is my best guess as to why certain things were moved around or never replaced. I don’t have the little squirters to clean the windshield and my horn I believe was relocated and sounds like it’s from a small car from the 60’s. The current setup is a toggle switch on the dash wired directly to the battery. Not a huge deal but it’s my DD and I live in the city.
It would be nice to have a .22 casing like I saw someone on here use but I don’t have my gunz here on the island, also it’s really expensive plus lots of bureaucratic red tape to own a firearm in PR (homicide rates are insane here, maybe I’ll join in the chit-chat camp someday to elaborate). So my solution will be to use spacers on the contact wheel which I’ve cleaned up quite a bit. I also cleaned the button contacts on the wheel.


This may be difficult to see but that is the wire that’s connected to the spring pin on the backside of the column. From what I can understand, according to the FSM diagram,  power goes from battery> haz/horn fuse> horn> switch> ground. I’m pretty illiterate when it comes to wiring/electrical, trying to teach myself. So my understanding is that this G-R wire should always be hot (I only own a test light). However it isn’t! But the hazard contacts on the column have constant power and function normally. I messed around for a little bit, used a jumper from the hazard contact to the horn pin wire and pushed the button on the wheel which blew the fuse. I knew the horn wouldn’t sound because it is not currently connected to the haz/horn circuit. My stupid forum question of the day is what would be the best plan to return to stock function? Search the cobweb of wires from the fuse and put the puzzle pieces back together or just ghetto bypass from the battery, add my own fuse, then go straight to the G-R wire on the column?

[Lewis Hein]

Is that why the passenger fender is 2WD as well? At least, it looks that way.

In re the horn function: I looked at my FSM (for a 1985 4runner but they were pretty much the same) and I think you are right that it goes battery->Haz/horn fuse->horn->ground. If you want to put it back that way here's what I would do. I would try to find the G-W and G-R wires that hook to the front of the horn, hook them up, and then ground out G-R in the steering column to see if the horn blows. A test light will not help you here, because it is in series with the horn and will only see a small voltage.

If this truck has been in a front end collision, the above could take a long, long time. Maybe the original wires were cut,. maybe their insulation is gone, etc. Since you seem to know your truck pretty well I assume you have dug into all that.  Honestly if it were me, I would probably just splice a length of G-W wire into the wire after the HAZ/HORN fuse. (the above may take anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks). Then I would drill a hole in the firewall and put a rubber grommet in it for future wiring (winch, aux lights, etc). After that, I would run said G-W wire to the horn and a G-R wire to the switch in the steering wheel. Much faster than chasing possibly nonexistent or broken wires and only slightly more sketchy.

[PuertoFrito [OP]]

Hm, you just made me go out and look at the truck... the fenders look the same to me. The original wires have definitely been cut, right now the horn is located in front of the ignition coil, that's how it was when I bought it. I'll try out what you wrote about splicing G-W after the fuse, and there is already a hole where the current wiring passes through to the toggle switch. Sounds like the path of least resistance.

[Lewis Hein]

Could have just been the angle too making it look like a 2WD fender on camera

[PuertoFrito [OP]]

Got the horn working off the wheel for the first time since I’ve owned this thing. Baby steps. Followed Heins’ advice and spliced into the L-Y wire that comes out of the haz-horn fuse, to the horn, second wire off horn through the firewall spliced into G-R just before the connecter located inside the column cover which leads to the spring pin. Goofed a bit on the first try and my right ear is still ringing a bit. Amazing what a difference a clean ground can make, it was pathetic before.

To remedy the worn down spring pin I added .25” PVC spacers (I saw some youtuber use toilet paper) and some 3/4” Robertson screws leftover from a cabinet job I did. Feels good to bring this little jibaro back to its former glory, however small of a thing it may be.

[PuertoFrito [OP]]

Wrapped the innards of some wire around that push pin to make more contact on the wheel, works great.

My frame is immaculate but this old cab and it’s floors are jacked up. Played with fiberglass for the first time. Really need to buy a welder at some point and teach myself.

Behind the seat


Patched a ton of holes here and will finish with black paint


I made these door panels a year and a half ago, I need to staple that brown vinyl better it’s looking pretty sad. I used spare .25” PVC panels I had and traced the old panel with a pencil then went to town with the jigsaw. I used to own a z32 300zx that had tan tweed  on the interior (one of the cleanest interiors I’ve ever owned) and loved it so had to get me some more tweed! I added some thin foam in between the PVC and fabric and secured it all with 3M spray can contact adhesive. Voila rot proof door panels.

[PuertoFrito [OP]]

Reading through Toybrota’s build has got me feeling the need to get back to the actual Technical Discussion and stop boring you with shitty mods and random pictures.

Back to the engine rebuild. I definitely skimped on quality here, don’t hate on me too hard it ain’t easy being a gringo carpenter in a Latino-US controlled territory 

One thing I skimped on was the DNJ gasket set. The machine shop I went to assembled the head, original valves, I’m unsure on the brand of valve seals but my buddy who’s a mechanic said “those are the good blue ones”. Good enough? Made in Japan pistons and NPR rings, made in Taiwan main bearings (not proud of that, don’t remember the brand) King rod bearings and thrust washers, original connecting rods, lubed everything during assembly with a mix of 10-40 and some high zinc STP break in oil. VERY thoroughly cleaned all oil galleys and used high temp thread sealer where appropriate. Should’ve removed those before sending it to the machine shop. Followed the FSM best I could. Primed oil pump before initial startup. Cloyes(?) HD timing kit w/ metal backed guide. New water pump and timing cover (not Aisin), original fan clutch (don’t ask) and oil pump.

Read earlier post for rod bearing incident.

I’m past the 1,000 mile mark now. Even though I kept the original cam I still followed the break in procedures I’ve read others do for the first 500 miles (suavecito).

-Re-torqued the head bolts (no noticeable difference)
-Adjusted valve clearance (Needed to be tightened on both sides)
-Changed the oil and filter (10-40 and Toyota filter didn’t notice any sparkles)
-Checked timing with light and adjusted carb

I will admit, another first-timers goof was when I was pressure washing the engine bay a clip from the throw out bearing fell off (Aisin clutch kit installed last year). I was an idiot and did not confirm with the Internet its correct position. If I drive on the highway and get up to 60+ for a little bit I do get a nice little chatter that goes away when I step on the clutch. However this noise is not present in city driving or when I’ve been out doing light wheeling (haven’t made any 4x4 friends here to feel confident in the sketchy stuff). If I turn the truck off for a minute and hop back in the noise goes away. Sometimes it sounds on the highway sometimes not. Not too worried about it for now.

Sometimes on a cold start there is some engine chatter, with my limited experience I assume it’s the valves. Otherwise it’s rather quiet. After longer highway trips at 60+ then going to idle back home it doesn’t sound too healthy, again not too worried right now as I rarely drive on the highway or over 60.

Cork oil pan gasket with ultra black on both sides, loosely followed h8pvmt’s method letting the silicon tack up. ZERO leaks. I was getting a minor leak from a bolt on the timing cover but has since stopped. I don’t remember if I used thread sealer or silicon but the FSM (or maybe it was a pdf from LCE) says to use one or the other on at least one of those bolts, definitely followed those instructions. Occasionally I notice a minor leak at the bottom of the oil pump. Minor being not enough to notice a difference on the dipstick in between changes. Rear main seal is dry. MPG so far has been no greater than 17 and no less than 13 (need to adjust parking brake). No coolant consumption/leaks (new hoses and clamps). Need to check how the plugs are looking.

All in all I’m a happy boy... for now. Didn’t spend too much, really great throttle response improvement, BALLER red valve cover. If the DNJ head gasket fails hopefully I’ll notice before it gets bad. I bought an Aisin HG from Amazon but it was very poorly packaged and slightly mangled, didn’t want to risk it so I returned it, needing to be on the road again for work the DNJ was there ready for me. Gotta give a shout out to I this entire website and yotatech bros. Wouldn’t have been possible without you nerds.

[Lewis Hein]

Glad to hear your rebuild is working out for you! H8PVMNT's DNJ head gasket took a dump on him as I recall. If possible I would suggest putting in an OEM gasket, as pretty much all the aftermarket ones get a bad rap.

[PuertoFrito [OP]]

Glad to hear your rebuild is working out for you! H8PVMNT's DNJ head gasket took a dump on him as I recall. If possible I would suggest putting in an OEM gasket, as pretty much all the aftermarket ones get a bad rap.

I think you're right. I'll give it a fighting chance for now

[Gnarly4X]

If you haven't read this... it's MY experience with the DNJ head gasket that came in the kit from engnbldr.   

https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100729.0;message=1163383

Gnarls.

[PuertoFrito [OP]]

If you haven't read this... it's MY experience with the DNJ head gasket that came in the kit from engnbldr.   

https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100729.0;message=1163383

Gnarls.

That was a great write up, thank you. I definitely didn’t want to run the DNJ (especially after reading through other builds) but at the time I was unaware of local shops that may have had a genuine 22R HG and I didn’t want to waste more time only to have another poorly packaged vital component shipped across the ocean. My fault for not giving myself more time to do the rebuild but there was a death in the family and when I returned to PR I needed to be back to work in a few days. I did however throw two healthy coats of permatex copper spray on the DNJ. Hopefully that provides more longevity.

[PuertoFrito [OP]]

Sold, much earlier end to this than I had expected. Time to get back to the homeland. 
Here’s the final moments of ownership.