Topic: Crank sensor

[sirdeuce]

Does anybody make a bolt on crank sensor set for the 22RE?

[gnob]

Loom into SDS fuel management and see what they are dw.

[OVRAROK]

Does anybody make a bolt on crank sensor set for the 22RE?

What about this...
http://foxau2.storenvy.com/products/23708694-22r-22re-20r-36-1-trigger-wheel-edis-megasquirt

[sirdeuce [OP]]

That looks like a good option. I'll look into it.
LC has a bracket for mounting a hall effect pick-up.

[OVRAROK]

Here's another...
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F311653898727

[Gnarly4X]

Does anybody make a bolt on crank sensor set for the 22RE?

Just curious....

What does a "crank sensor" do on a 22RE that a 22RE cannot do without one?

Gnarls.

[sirdeuce [OP]]

I'm looking at possibilities for my next build. The 36-1 wheel is available from many sources, but the sensor bracket is a bit more elusive. I have 2 more builds I want to do, a 7AGE (hybrid 7A block and 4AGE head) and a 2.6l 20R head on 22R block.
Sensing crank and cam position allows a more precise tuning capability than the stock sensors allow. Better computer capabilities. More things to play with!

[Gnarly4X]

I'm looking at possibilities for my next build. The 36-1 wheel is available from many sources, but the sensor bracket is a bit more elusive. I have 2 more builds I want to do, a 7AGE (hybrid 7A block and 4AGE head) and a 2.6l 20R head on 22R block.
Sensing crank and cam position allows a more precise tuning capability than the stock sensors allow. Better computer capabilities. More things to play with!

So... I understand the basic function of a crankshaft position sensor -- primarily sensing crank position for valves, fuel injection, and ignition timing, but..... I assume it reports data (a signal) back to the ECU?

Other than fuel injection and ignition, crank-to-cam timing, what other "timing" events will the sensor's signal affect?

After you see the signal from the sensor, what specific timing would you want to change for any performance gains.

Obviously you can grind a cam profile for valve timing events.  You can change ignition timing.  Can you change the crankshaft position?

And... what instrument do you use to record or monitor the data or signal from the sensor?

I assume the signal from the sensor is voltage?  What degree of accuracy will it sense? 

I also assume you can be building an engine with an "ECU delete"? 

Just curious.

Gnarls.

[sirdeuce [OP]]

Let's just think at the amount of accuracy the 36 - 1 tooth wheel on the crank gives over the 4 + 1 the stock sensors give. With 36 timing events measured per crank revolution as opposed to 2 plus the TDC indicator pulse the stock distributor gives allows such a wider tuning capability. If the plans are to run with sequential injection and a COP ignition a position signal every 10 degrees of crank travel works MUCH better than every 180 degrees.

[Gnarly4X]

Let's just think at the amount of accuracy the 36 - 1 tooth wheel on the crank gives over the 4 + 1 the stock sensors give. With 36 timing events measured per crank revolution as opposed to 2 plus the TDC indicator pulse the stock distributor gives allows such a wider tuning capability. If the plans are to run with sequential injection and a COP ignition a position signal every 10 degrees of crank travel works MUCH better than every 180 degrees.

Interesting!

Thanks for the input.

So it makes sense to “fine tune”.  I’ve always experienced, and tuning is discussed in almost every conversation I've had about performance, and I know it has been stated by some of best Toyota engine builders on the planet, that TUNING is critical for optimum performance from these little engines… actually any engine.

In my 60’s Chevy days, I was blown away by how much more power and better throttle response I could get out my 327-powered Corvettes, and my first V-8 powered car – 1964 Chevelle Malibu 283cu, when I spent time doing simple tuning.  For example, back then I felt the “accuracy” of ignition timing was really bad.  Why? … the early distributors with condenser & points was so “mechanical” with metal and phenolic parts and a points gap measured with a feeler gauge!  Electrically, just the resistance and conductivity between the condenser (a capacitor that had an effective life span) and the screw clamp that held it in the distributor was critical for efficient voltage.

Another example.... spark plugs...  the electrode gap spec is in thousandths of an inch, and it is specific. The gap is measured by hand by some kind of "feeler" gauge. It is measured by a person's "feel".  If the gap is out of the manufacturers spec, it may not produce the best spark.  Or... you can alter the gap spec and change the spark that can change the combustion characteristics of the air/fuel mixture.

I’m sure guys like sirdeuce and others, with WAY more knowledge than I have, can relate to what I experienced.

Gnarls.

[sirdeuce [OP]]

Oh yeah, the days of jets and points. One thing you didn't mention is the effect of ignition timing with changes in plug gap. A wider gap would retard the timing. I believe .005" would change the timing a measurable amount. Changing dwell was a good tuning "trick" too. Dwell would also have an effect on timing. The condenser was an evil little monster. Ever remove one that had not been discharged?? Ever charge one and toss it to someone? Surprising how many times I've had a car brought to me where the condenser was the culprit. 
I do like carburetors, so simple, but they do leave a bit to be desired for accuracy. As I've posted in other threads the necessity to keep a jet set in the glove box so you can adjust your carbs when on a trip.
So much from the old days that made it so much fun.

IF you knew what you were doing you could mod the Aisin carb (like from the 20R) to do as well as a 32/36 Weber. Lots of mods were necessary, but when done properly it would be easily tunable and have fantastic response in any situation. Lots of work! With EFi all that drilling, grinding and gas on your hands can be avoided.