Topic: 22r valve/cam issues

[sirdeuce]

The whole 'build to the budget' thing huh? Remember to make several retorque efforts after you install the mani. Let the engine go through 2 or 3 heat cycles ant then retorque. Keep doing that until the nuts won't retorque.

[mwhite49 [OP]]

The whole 'build to the budget' thing huh? Remember to make several retorque efforts after you install the mani. Let the engine go through 2 or 3 heat cycles ant then retorque. Keep doing that until the nuts won't retorque.

Yep money is tight. I'm going to use Wave type lock washers with plain nuts. Should be easier on my new studs.

[sirdeuce]

Until the torque stabilizes keep an eye on those wavy washers. If they get loose they'll back off into someones windshield.

[mwhite49 [OP]]

The only issue I really have about using the stock manifold is that I don't want the new studs tweaked. With the money that went into rebuilding that head I could have purchased a new one. When I torque the new nuts it will be a bit lower than the factory as per the FSM.

[Gnarly4X]

The only issue I really have about using the stock manifold is that I don't want the new studs tweaked. With the money that went into rebuilding that head I could have purchased a new one. When I torque the new nuts it will be a bit lower than the factory as per the FSM.

m.....

So the head is a rebuilt head?  What exactly was done during the rebuild?

Were the valve seats replaced?

Who did the rebuild?

What was the condition of the head before the rebuild?

Was the head a factory stock original or an aftermarket head like DNJ?

Gnarls.

[mwhite49 [OP]]

Stock head original to the engine. All new toyota valves. New 268 cam, the old cam was out of spec. Several exhaust studs had previously been replaced and were pulling out. I think it had been rebuilt once before. Block milled 11 thousands and head 5 just to clean it up. Several studs could not be heli coiled and the shop used special inserts and I supplied new studs. I had the manifold surface ground yesterday and watched him do it. Nice and flat now. The last builder did not do this and that's probably what pulled the studs.

[mwhite49 [OP]]

Today since we have nice weather I hooke up more items.  No plugs in and turned the engine over a couple of times, maybe 3 to 4 minutes total. I had the valve cover off. Seems like every thing is working except I expected to see more oil. I have a new mechanical oil gauge and I have no oil in the tube. Is there a way to prime the oil pump? Should I be worried or not?

[Lewis Hein]

Did the oil light go off? Below is a quote from 22RE Performance:

Crank it over.  (WITHOUT the coil wire installed onto the distributor cap and the EFI fuse REMOVED)  It may take 10 to 30 seconds of total cranking time to get the “oil” light to go out or your gauge (if you have an SR5 truck) to register in the ‘normal’ range.

[mwhite49 [OP]]

No oil light. Just a new mechanical oil pressure gauge. But I had the plugs in loose, not tightened down. Tomorrow I'll pull the plugs all the way out and that should give me more rpm.

[Gnarly4X]

Today since we have nice weather I hooke up more items.  No plugs in and turned the engine over a couple of times, maybe 3 to 4 minutes total. I had the valve cover off. Seems like every thing is working except I expected to see more oil. I have a new mechanical oil gauge and I have no oil in the tube. Is there a way to prime the oil pump? Should I be worried or not?

With proper assembly lube, lubing the oil pump with engine break in oil prior to bolting onto the block, you shouldn't have an issue with getting oil pressure to your mechanical gauge.  Priming the oil filter with oil is always recommended, but with the horizontal mount on a 22, I don't know if the anti-drain back valve is good enough to keep some oil in the filter.  Milodon is a well-known manufacturer and their instructions on priming their oil pumps is to fill it with Vaseline jelly if you can't prime with motor oil.  https://www.milodon.com/instructions/oil-pump-startup.pdf

Cranking an engine for 30 seconds is LONG time to me, but you should see oil pressure in less than 60 seconds at the gauge.  The oil pump will be pumping oil almost immediately and pushing oil into the bearings and into the cam and rockers before you see the pressure on the gauge.

You should have the plugs removed to allow the engine to spin faster.

The temperature of the oil is critical for adequate flow.  If I lived in a very cold climate and firing a rebuilt engine for the first time in a non-heated garage, I'd heat the oil in a bucket of hot water, then pour it into the crankcase, then immediately fire the engine.

Gnarls.

[mwhite49 [OP]]

Thanks to all. I'm in Ventura county so it's not really cold. Got up to 65 yesterday. I'll pull the plugs today and try again.