Topic: what soldering iron for automotive?

[toyodaaddict]

Can anyone recommend a good soldering tool that will work well on 12 and 14 gauge wire?

I've been using a 40W weller SP40L  iron and it isn't putting out enough heat for the larger wires.

I've been looking at this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VLZU1M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1796Z3O51BLF&psc=1

I've also been looking at the gun style units. I'm seeing warnings not to use on low voltage wire (automotive wire is low voltage wire, right?), static sensitive devices or around sensitive electronic equipment.  Would this mean they shouldn't be used on wires connected to the ECU, TPS, AFM, etc. ?

There are a lot of options and prices are all over the place. What are you guys using?

[mudmaster]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DIE9BO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I'll second this, it's what I use.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DIE9BO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I'll second this, it's what I use.

Thanks! Sounds like this is the one.
 If I understand correctly, it looks like it's equal to a 120W iron, at max setting.  Out of curiosity, whats the largest wire you guys have soldered with this thing?


I'm redoing some connections that may have been done with an acid based flux  .  They have a bit of green stuff growing on the joints 
While the harness is apart I was thinking of upgrading my Alternator wire to 6 awg.  To do that, I would need to T in the 10 gauge wire from the fuse box under the steering wheel (1st gen pickup).  Toyota used what I believe is called an open barrel crimp.  If I decide to mess with the alternator wire, I doubt I will be able to solder it.  I need to get set up for doing quality crimp connections as well.  Anyway That's what I'm working on. Thanks again 

[mudmaster]

I think I've done as big as 12?

[jimbo74]

Check out the hakko fx888d. I use it. It is awesome. It is capable of more, but I have used it with 10g wire.

[CORRODED]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DIE9BO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

No surprise that the resident soldering iron jockey is the first to recommend a soldering iron! 

[CrazyYota]

Get some 63/37 rosin core solder. This is what I use.
https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-0027-Solder-Alloy-Diameter/dp/B0149K4JTY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=57600646258&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5teggbvq5AIV0MDACh0i7QsjEAAYASAAEgL9pfD_BwE&hvadid=274693495119&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9032274&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8380222215670921844&hvtargid=kwd-375370213616&hydadcr=28308_9828291&keywords=63+37+rosin+core+solder&qid=1569362537&s=gateway

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I contacted power probe. They said the butane iron is good for 20-14 gauge. They said 10 gauge would be to big. I may still order it, but it sounds like I may need something else for the bigger stuff.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Get some 63/37 rosin core solder. This is what I use.
https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-0027-Solder-Alloy-Diameter/dp/B0149K4JTY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=57600646258&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5teggbvq5AIV0MDACh0i7QsjEAAYASAAEgL9pfD_BwE&hvadid=274693495119&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9032274&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8380222215670921844&hvtargid=kwd-375370213616&hydadcr=28308_9828291&keywords=63+37+rosin+core+solder&qid=1569362537&s=gateway

I am seeing that most people are using 60/40 or 63/37. I have always used bernzOmatic silver bearing, rosin core, electrical solder. I believe it is lead free.  I didnt realise it melts at a higher temp and I may have better luck with the 60/40 or 63/37.

[CrazyYota]

It's what we used on circuit boards. Melts at lower temps better for the electronics.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Check out the hakko fx888d. I use it. It is awesome. It is capable of more, but I have used it with 10g wire.

Im leaning towards the 888d now.  Power probe says their butane iron is good for 20-14g.  Hakko  confirmed 10g wont be a problem with the 888d. They did recommend using a larger tip than the standard size.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

well.. I'm still monkeying around with this.  Anyone have any idea whats going on with these joints?  I originally thought the green stuff was corrosion, now I'm not so sure.  The joints are about 6 years old.  I didn't do them, so I don't know what solder was used. 

I'm thinking I should pickup some 60/40 and 63/37 solder to see which works better for me.  Any recommended brands or just get whatever?

[emsvitil]

green is usually copper corrosion.   If it's in the strands, it's not going to solder.

How big is the wire?    No perspective on size.    (add something of know size in picture)

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

green is usually copper corrosion.   If it's in the strands, it's not going to solder.

How big is the wire?    No perspective on size.    (add something of know size in picture)

Its AVS 3, so 12 gauge.  The green stuff is only 1/2" - 1" or so past the soldered joints, less on smaller wires. After that it is shiny copper.  I will definitely be cutting out the corroded/contaminated  wire. 

The pics looked a lot better on my phone before posting. They didnt turn out clear enough to really see the green stuff in detail.

I dont know why it happened. The wires where shrink tubed.

I just want to make sure I do everything right/use the right materials, so corrosion isnt an issue next time.