Author Topic: Welcome to my MORPH project w/ a 92' Toyota p/u 4 X 4 frame 'High ~N~ Dry'  (Read 719 times)

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WizardMaster

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Hey all!!

          I think I may be able to post attachments now and if so, this thread is a go! If not, I'll come back when I get enough posts up. I acquired a 1993 Suzuki Sidekick a few months ago. It arrived trailered and sitting on 37's. I knew it had a transmission issue w/ slippage and after the guys left with my quad trade, I got to digging. The trans was a BOP on the side of Buick TH350 and it was mounted on the back of a early 4.3 vortec that was build with nice furnishings.  I decided that I was not into oddball stuff and located a freshly built Chevy TH350 for $600 w/ a new 2000-2200 stall converter included. I removed the BOP and the adapter plate used on the rear of Chevy engines to allow this type of trans to be mounted.  BUT, why do people go to the trouble???

       I then had to tackle the issue they had with a seized up right rear Disc Brake caliper they had to remove and tie back out of the way, to move the beast around.  I did a lot of research until I found that the calipers are for 70's and 80's GM cars with front disc brakes. I ordered a new caliper for a 1980 Monte Carlo and the pads for the same were separate. I easily removed the left side caliper and hung it from the rear springs so it was out of the way. The name of the company that made the REAR disc brake system for Toyota using GM components was ALL PRO OFF ROAD!!! I didn't ever think I would figure this out until I found the archived instruction link last night. Mine are the two piece welded version and are one of the best made that I've seen yet.

      Anyway, FYI, my rust removal system is the 'VINEGAR SOAK' and for those not familiar with it, you must try it!!  I let my parts site over night, check and wire brush and decide if another night will do but it's works well!!!  I de-rust my tools the same way. You don't mind taking a hand wire brush  or with a drill and brushing a dry rusty part?? You'll never get it all. Try the same after a good white vinegar soak and you will enjoy that brushing much more as your metal looks fresh and new. And I don't mind the black stains on my hands from the oxidation coming off. My hands clean up.  I give a good water bath and scrub and then a shot of spray paint.

     Anyway, that's how I remove rust naturally and safely. I've also done my rotors and caliper brackets that way.  Last evening, I mounted the caliper brackets and torqued them greatly. Tomorrow I will mount the rear calipers and new shoes and put my mini tires back on. About my 'mini tires'....... I had to go small so I could get it into my garage in my back side yard so I had to buy 15" X 7" trailer wheels or wagon wheels and mount a set of 205/78's on the,. I clear the entrance by a couple inches now.  Had to remove the ugly roof rack to do so though.  I bought a trans jack from Harbor Freight and it served me well!!!  I think it reaches 27" at the top and 7 inches at the bottom which was ideal!! I've installed a deep sump pan on the trans and I swear that pan is 1/2" thick!!!! Probably good for rock crawling if it get's bumped.  Well, so mus=ch to talk about but I'll leave it at that only to say that I'm waiting on a trans temp gauge and headers and I'm in no hurry as I am disabled from a bad cycle accident in 1998' , so I take things slow now. I get around just fine though luckily! Just had a broken spine etc., and have 1/2" rods supporting it.  I'm off to see if I can post photos now since I found I can post my avatar!!! There is no such thing as a build thread with out photos and I love taking photos!!! Mine are FINE 5 MP size photos so you can zoom in on little bugs if you wish :D...

          Been into photography since my days in the USMC when I started photography as a hobby.  My favorite challenge is shooting photos of aircraft and I've gotten some whoppers!!! I'll talk about my RF1A with the Downey Off Road adapter next time around.

                                                                                                 Talk soon!!! Wizzy, a.k.a.Scott

             
Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere!!

WizardMaster [OP]

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Can anyone tell me what that thingy is up there near the middle and to the right near the front? :greengrin: :greengrin: :greengrin:

« Last Edit: Jul 14, 2019, 11:59:48 AM by WizardMaster »
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gnob

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Bro seriously.  No one can see your pics and they aren't click able
hold this. . .

WizardMaster [OP]

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each photo can be 140 kb or smaller, multiple photos can't exceed a total of 1120 kb (8 140 kb photos equal 1120 kb)
you are getting 2 errors because your single photo is more than 1120 kb which is breaking both of the rules. You need to reduce each photo as close to 140 kb as possible if you want to use the built in system otherwise you can link photos from a host website at higher resolutions.

you don't have to ruin your original photos, just make a lower res copy to post here

Thank-you, you are too kind in your patience with my sarcasm.Let me give one a try...... Oh look! They're gettin' bigger........ :laugh:
« Last Edit: Jul 14, 2019, 02:52:59 PM by WizardMaster »
Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere!!

WizardMaster [OP]

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Alrighty then! Since I had my fun, let's get on with the real repair build and resurrect this beast!!!!

Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere!!

gnob

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Needs more triangulation
hold this. . .

WizardMaster [OP]

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The prior photos are from the sellers house. The next set of photos are exactly where we unloaded her after they backed the trailer into my driveway and we carefully rolled it off and onto the driveway for me to figure my next move. I was told that the transmission slipped so I knew what i was getting into and they said it ran but they couldn't get it started when they showed up and that had me worried. I gambled and figured they didn't know what they were doing. And later I find they were as dumb as I thought, stay tuned... And the only reason I took this project was because it has a title!!!





Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere!!

WizardMaster [OP]

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After we got it off the trailer and into it's spot where it sits in the photos, I asked them to put it into PARK. The fella said that they can't. I asked why not and he opened the rear door and said because the front driveshaft and all the parts were there. I stopped asking and we blocked the wheel as you can see. I later when out to mess with it and play with my B & M comp shifter and after I put it into position that would be park (full forward), I removed the chock and pulled on the bumper and it clicked into PARK!!!!  It had a REAR driveshaft and that alone is all that's needed to hold the rear wheels!! You find many fruit cakes on craigsList!!!! Next time we chat I'll discuss the running of the engine. :thumbs:
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LinksN4Ds

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This is a small company owned not for profit (no ads) forum, it's not going to have the fancy
bells and whistles of a typical forum

I've seen much smaller companies (not even companies) run way more up to date forums. Simple Machines Forum is pretty lame, and although it's free, a one time purchase of $350 can buy a XenForo license. 140mb picture limit is quite a bottleneck when the price of a GB is less than 2 cents today. Phones are taking 6000 KB photos.
Trapped in a house of glass, begging for stones!

WizardMaster [OP]

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OK, while my new toy sat in the driveway and while I was waiting for her tiny feet to install on his tiny wheels so I could roll him in the garage, I popped the hood and took a look at the engine.  First thing i did was buy a new battery and  relocate the fuel pressure regulator because it was in the way of my new battery. I then checked all the wiring and spark plug wires and found one laying against the header and others just not organized at all!!! I pulled the wire and taped it up good and this time I put them in the factory looms where they belonged.  I hate idiots!!!! I then dumped 7 gallons of gas in the gas tank......AFTER pulling the cap and taking a sniff for fuel quality and the fuel smelled good and fresh. With at least 7 gallons in the tank, I worked the throttle body to see fuel squirt into the carb. I then did another once over, jumped up into the cab and turned the key and she jumped to life!!!! Sounded like a 454 with her high energy Distributor, cam and headers, etc.!!!! It idled like a new truck!!! I felt like I was sitting in Big Foot! Now that is one healthy engine!!!!!! I shut it down soon after because I need to hook up the electric fan. But to hear it run!!! Now to get her little feet on when the wheels and tires arrive!!! Let's go grab some photos of the new 'mini me' tires and getting it into the garage until she can me moved to the shop in the back yard!!!! :thumbs:




Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere!!

WizardMaster [OP]

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Here is a couple shots of how my 4 X 4 arrived as far as the engine goes. And the next photos after I added an air cleaner and stuff. I hate mud wasps and I had to protect that Holley 600!!!!



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WizardMaster [OP]

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Here's the sticker I put on the air cleaner!!
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LinksN4Ds

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Well, that little 4.3 fits in there better than I expected. Also every time I come on this thread I get an evil magic turtle.  >:(
Trapped in a house of glass, begging for stones!

WizardMaster [OP]

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Well, that little 4.3 fits in there better than I expected. Also every time I come on this thread I get an evil magic turtle.  >:(

Yeh, same here! Every time I come to this thread I get the evil magic turtle. This site should not be evil.  ..Go figure!!!!  Why would there be evil turtles here anyway?? I know we have trolls but evil turtles??? :greengrin:
« Last Edit: Jul 15, 2019, 05:18:18 PM by WizardMaster »
Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere!!

WizardMaster [OP]

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OK, as I stated before, the tires that got my monster inside the shop were 205/78/15. Anyone else have a 4.3 in their Toyota? It sure is a powerhouse. Well, I'm off to find me a skilled welder in my area to see about getting my driver's side header modified to match the old one.
« Last Edit: Jul 16, 2019, 06:05:17 AM by WizardMaster »
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mudmaster

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I don't see any pics?
Time to go wheelin!

WizardMaster [OP]

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I don't see any pics?

That's cause Morphs are imaginary. You need to imagine what my photos look like....... :biggthumpup: :thumbs: :D :D :D
Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere!!

WizardMaster [OP]

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OK, back to my header issue. I've decided that I will run with my Hedman 69410 headers cause I only need to mod one tube and if an old fart can do it, so can I !!! The passenger side fits fine and with a U-pipe, I'll get my exhaust past the cross-member. THAT's twice I wasn't paying attention before I ordered something!!!!!

    First time I wasted my money was when I got the truck, they gave me a 4L60E and said that was a replacement!! I thought, great! I'll just order a new tranny pan, filter and gasket and a case of trans synthetic Delco VI  fluid!!! Gonna do this up right ya know! YEHHHHH RIGHT!!!!! Right after I placed my order, the next day I got to thinkin' that the trans had a corner missing on the pan that was on the engine...... I started thinking TH350!!!!  I also got to thinking that the 4L60E is an electric piece of junk!! I then laid under my truck and sure enough, the pan was a TH350 and a BOP to boot!!!! BOY WAS I PISSED!!!  I texted that guy that I got the 4 X 4 from and told him a thing or two about an education he much needed!!!!!!! :mad:

    Anyway, I was able to cancel the filter and gasket for the 4L60E, but the messages went unanswered until a few days later when the seller of the trans pan said oops, it just shipped but we will make you a ticket to send it back. I told him to forget it.  I then located a very nice newly built semi high performance Chevy TH350 w/ a 2000-2200 stall converter new in the box for $600 from a guy in Daytona Beach.   I spent another $140 on a new deep sump pan w/ a temp gauge outlet and I love it!!!

SECOND screw up was NOT looking at the drivers side header well enough before ordering a new set that I thought would just bolt right up. I just got happy and ordered my headers and when they arrived and I tried slipping them into place, that is when I found that there was a V-BEND that hit the drivers side frame. OK, I think it's time for me to buy a welder and stop being dependent of other people doing my work when I know I would do a much better job!!!!  $240 for my headers and I will make them work.





AND this is where she sits until I get my headers squared away!! In the second photo, you can see that I have the sending unit installed ready to hook up to my new Glo Shift custom gauge!!


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WizardMaster [OP]

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Let's talk about my experience about AN lines and that I did not enjoy putting them AN lines together! I figure the quality of the lines are the same anywhere and there's only one way to manufacture them. I bought 8' of 3/8" or AN-6 stainless line w/ the rubber inner, not the poly stuff that uses different fittings compression fittings. I bought the AN-6 fittings. I also didn't want to attempt to cut my lines and assemble them without the correct jaw inserts for my vice. After I got my jaw inserts I decided I was ready for this and believe me, after studying many you-tube vids on what I need to do, most things come easy to me! This should have been a cake walk!

      First thing I did was tightly roll some electrical tape on the end and then I used my electric Rotozip cut-off saw with the stainless line mounted tightly in my vice jaws and I did a fair job of cutting through with that fine blade. I then removed the electrical tape and crap!!! Was I ever in for a surprise! Mushroom city!!  Check out the photos. I am including three different taping options and which works best. The first one was cutting through the black electrical tape and removing it.............. And even without removing the tape it was nearly impossible to get the fitting over it, even with duct tape.




I had two choices for cutting and I think now, even though I didn't prefer the method, the large AN LINE cutters would do a great job. I'm sure that's how they were cut to be mailed to me cause the lines were minorly crushed. I just didn't like the thought of compromised pinched lines being weakened in the cutting process. SO, between the electric cut-off tool, which was my fine Rotozip and my all favorite DREMEL!!! I chose my Dremel tool for a nice fine cut. You need to change the fine cutting wheel with each end you cut cause they are not very big and you go around the hose VERY carefully and take your time.  First I wrap BLUE tape around and I take a black pen or fine tip marker and draw a line around to follow.  I got so good that I was able to cut through the stainless and score the line enough that I only took a utility razor blade and sliced through the rubber, keeping my line clean inside.  I don't think I will ever purchase that large line cutter because I don't do enough of these and I probably won't ever again. I do suggest you get that Koul Tool or do as I did and place a big socket over the nut and twist it on the stainless steel.  And try to twist more than push cause you'll just push the lines back over the hose and go nowhere. HERE is one of them photos of pushing too hard and using electrical tape. And notice the crap in the lines that my camera picked up!!! BLOW THEM OUT! You don't need that in your engine, transmission, or fuel line!! This is why I prefer the dremel and the blade slice.



Let's look at how I received the line from ebay.  They wrapped it in duct tape and took their line chopper and cut a fine line! I do not prefer to leave duct tape inside my fitting as it can act as a slippery slider possible letting the line separate later. This blue tape was my favorite method.




 The tool would be great but it's not cheap, even on ebay ( approx. $100 for a good one and anything less than a good cutter is a bad cutter)! And I did mess up the end when I was test fitting to see how easy the fitting would slide over duct tape......it didn't. Try not to wrap the tape too many times unless you unwrap a few strands and slice off the extra, but leave enough on to keep the strands intact to get under the fitting.




And just a side note, I did spray a small amount of silicone lubricant on the threaded fitting that slips inside the housing and hose. I had no issues spinning the fitting on and in the end, it was nice and snug!! And get the vice jaws for AN lines! They are not expensive. I paid about $18 for a nice thick set of red ones and the quality was excellent!! They are nice and heavy!!



And with your hose tight in the AN line vice jaws, leave about an inch sticking out since about 3/4" to 1" slides into the nut! This keeps the strands from sliding back, and makes them go into the nut! Also, do more twisting than pushing! These nuts twist on in a counter clockwise direction. Have fun!! :biggthumpup:
« Last Edit: Jul 16, 2019, 08:03:16 AM by WizardMaster »
Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere!!

WizardMaster [OP]

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Did a little research on the net today and found plenty of header materials in 1.5" SS and soft steel. I'm not going to have a problem modifying my driver's side header once I get me a welder set-up  or I go do the fix at a buddy's house or shop. I also found the 90 degree bends that will allow me to route my exhaust from the header around my TH350 cross member so I was happy to see that.  Just getting all my ducks in line for my next move. Maybe when I get some time, we'll take a look at the interior. I'm tempted to remove the back seat cause I don't want to haul a bunch of peeps around and feel like the driver of the short yellow school bus................ :cheese: :yupyup: :biggthumpup: Maybe some stereo equipment!! I could did some great sounding jams when me and the ole lady reach a good camping spot!!!!!

       OK OK!!! Here are the interior shots you were dying to see!!! Maybe I could turn the rear area into a camping bed since there's so much room!!! I just don't know. Any suggestions???? What would you do??




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WizardMaster [OP]

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         Today I will discuss mating a TH350 GM transmission to the RF1A using the Downey Off Road T-case adapter. I learned this the hard way because I had no idea what I had gotten myself into. All I know is that I had a triple breed monster on my hands and I needed to replace the transmission!! I was in no hurry, it wasn't going anywhere, and with a bad back like mine resulting from hitting the side of a car rolling through a stop sign on a highway (female driven) with me and my motorcycle going 60 MPH, it happens. After a lot of research I broke down and bought a Harbor Freight transmission jack that will lift the table to approx 25" and as low as 7". To me, that couldn't have been any better for my job.  I read many reviews and most were smack on that yes, with as heavy as a transmission is, it had to be spot on and centered on the jack table to keep the jack straight while going up. If not, it can look like the leaning tower of pizza!! Yummy!!  And also, DON'T put the strap too tight or the trolley wheels will come off the rods they ride on! I strapped my RF1A for it's safe trip to the ground floor and watched as I was tightening it, the tightness was spreading the lower rails the wheels ride on. Don't do that. You don't need it tight and there are many ways to secure and strap the object anyway.  I used pieces of 2 X 4's to keep the RF1a stable and level. IF you want to avoid all that, buy a motorcycle jack. Also use a small piece of plywood on the jack platform to avoid sliding off the jack. I learned that trick ( motorcycle jack) after I bought my economy jack, but so far I'm happy with HF products!! I pretty much stay away from anything requiring plugging into a wall, even though I love my battery charger/jumper! The entire charger works flawlessly and yes, i did jump my wife's car with it..

        I went through the charade of removing the speedo cable and unbolting the adapter from the TH350 BOP and carefully placed the jack under it and removed the bolts holding the TH350 to it's cross member so I could lift  and support the RF1A to remove it's cross member and when I got the RF1A supported and strapped for flight, the mission began. I dropped the Toyota p?u cross member Remember, don't be in a hurry and don't forget to remove the 4 bolts upstairs to remove the shifter assembly to the T-case. Carefully lower and slide back the T-case until the tail shaft of the transmission separates and when you have clearance, bring er' down. Put that greasy oily glob of aluminum off to the side AFTER securing that expensive sleeve adapter.  Then go after that transmission, and in my case, a TH350 BOP. I unbolted it from the engine after getting the jack to the comfortable height of 24" and then I carefully removed the B & M shift linkage, etc. Then I realized that IF your TH350 still has it's 'EARS' not lopped off, lowering between a set of headers might not go as planned.  I had to remove the driver's side header. The new comp CHEVY TH350 I received has had it's ears lopped off. See photos.

       OK, enough said. Let's see some photos!!! First one is me removing the T-case like it was a fine polished jewel.





           
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WizardMaster [OP]

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More photos of the RF1A T-case removal! I was so pleased the learn that I had the GEARED case and not the chain driven t-case. I would think it would be the other way around though instead of >> 4 cyl = GEARED( the preferred system) and V-6= Chain, the not so cool set-up from what i heard. I heard that chains fail.  Anyway, the T-case adapter that accepts the TH350 trans's uses the tail shaft rubber seal just like in the TH350 trans's. Now it's time to haul it off for a bath!! Engine spray cleaner will do the trick!








Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere!!

WizardMaster [OP]

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Here are the photos of the removal of the TH350 BOP. And the next set of images will be of the tail shaft modification requirements to mate up this RF1A to a TH350 using the Downey adapter. And not without a shot of the boss! Nothing get's by her! :D








Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere!!

WizardMaster [OP]

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Also, if you noticed, I didn't use the strap for the transmission. That was because the pan is flat and the trans is very stable for the trip downward. Next I will also show you that I use my trans jack as an elevator to get the trans mounted on my new engine stand I bought from HF just for my trans work!!! The jack height is more than enough.  I also use adequate bolts and washers for better support of the transmission and it works great!! For those with bad backs such as me, you fight obstacles and win!! And at this point I had not chosen my transmission yet. I knew that I would have one built, was one alternative before finding one that was built and ready to go w/ 2000 miles on it for $600. And I was not diggin' the broken locator on the BOP.  Enjoy!  :thumbs:







Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere!!

 
 
 
 
 

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