Author Topic: D4DRunner (Read 7719 times)

RB · « **on:** Jun 03, 2019, 08:07:58 PM »

Seems to be more action on this site then others I've been on recently, so I figured I'll share some of my project and hopefully get some suggestions and guidance.
Nut Shell... 88 4Runner 3VZ-E SAS, swapping in an '06 1KD-FTV engine, R151F trans with dual boxes.

Some stuff I'm copying from previous posts

today we clean the/organize the operating room before surgery. Then I'll remove the trans and get after the 5th gear OD mod since I'll need to order the gears. After the trans removal I'll remove the wheels and drop the whole truck on 6x6s and rmove the coil overs. This will be easier to work on....more to follow

this happened

Did some cleaning....

Then did more cleaning...

then I decided to torture myself with just seeing where this lump needs to sit....

took some measurements (going to install an electric fan)...

The engine is not sitting in its permanent location, as I have discovered a few issues:

Oil pan hits the front diff at full stuff, i knew I would need to modify the oil pan and sump
Engine mounts seem to be spaced wider and at a slightly different angle on the frame when compared to the mount angle and spacing on the engine
Fab up new mounts to shove engine back about 1", and up another 1.5'.....sooooo.....
While I'm at it may as well do a drive-train lift, so time to hack into the horse collar
Vacuum pump in the front of the engine will be very close to the fan shroud, may have to clearance a shroud

I'm going to fab up some motor mount perches this weekend and hopefully get a solid location for the lump to live. I'll then turn to the oil pan modification.

Made some motor mounts...1.5" drive-train lift, and back .75". Next will be modifying the horse collar.

RB · « **Reply #1 on:** Jun 04, 2019, 06:03:24 AM »

Did the following before the above post...

ECU was sent to Diesel Toys in TX for an ECU tune. Deleted the EGR and Immobilizer as well as added their mild tune to give more power and more MPG. After running the engine using TechStream I determined injector two would be failing soon, so sent the Injectors off to Baileys Diesel Group in Australia. After speaking with Simon, he told me that the main bearings are not a concern (as I was going to replace the mains) in these engines, but to switch out the hard fuel lines due to the mileage. So, new injectors (Stage 1 15% more flow), valve cover gaskets kit, fuel hard lines and suction control valve for the injection pump.

Valve cover off, the black gets on everything, its worse then anti-seize.

Injectors getting sent out to Baileys Diesel Group, going Stage 1 which has a 15% higher flow for a future mild tune.

Intake manifold nastiness. There is a butterfly valve on the circular cylinders, with about an 1/8" of soot and oil tacked onto it.

To deal with the black death...
Made a parts washer out of some bits we had laying around UnHoly Motorsports.

First pass with the parts cleaner, that is soot in the sink, about an 1/8" thick. This is all due to the EGR, cancer to diesel engines.

Engine back on engine stand for cleaning and maintenance. Will be rotating the engine to clean the intake ports on the head.

More to follow

Did some cleaning on the head intake runners and welding the EGT bung into the exhaust manifold.

Welding on the cast manifold for the EGT bung

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #2 on:** Jun 04, 2019, 07:41:46 AM »

Why did you weld a bung rather than tap the manifold?

RB · « **Reply #3 on:** Jun 04, 2019, 08:21:23 AM »

Quote from: redneckcustoms13 on Jun 04, 2019, 07:41:46 AM

Why did you weld a bung rather than tap the manifold?

Well, because I bought a bung not realizing the manifold is very thick and also because I e never welded on cast. So in short, no real reason.

Dingman. · « **Reply #4 on:** Jun 04, 2019, 11:07:57 AM »

Looking good!

Rockcrawlintoy · « **Reply #5 on:** Jun 04, 2019, 02:17:26 PM »

Quote from: redneckcustoms13 on Jun 04, 2019, 07:41:46 AM

Why did you weld a bung rather than tap the manifold?

Every truck needs a bunghole

RB · « **Reply #6 on:** Jun 04, 2019, 05:33:16 PM »

heading to the shop tonight to tack the mounts in place and check for more problems.
I need to get a rear sump from a Prado, its an aluminum housing with a steel lower pan, and I'm having a hell of a time finding someone to ship to me. I need a used one so the sump pick up is included, would rather not buy new.

Thanks

RB · « **Reply #7 on:** Jun 09, 2019, 07:36:03 PM »

ordered Prado sump from the UK.
Motor mounts are tacked in but there seems to be an issue...
The engine is sitting in the frame a bit diagonally and I'm not exactly sure why. Need to take more measurements and think...

In other news the Dyna 5th gear swap on the R151 seems to be working out.

RB · « **Reply #8 on:** Jun 16, 2019, 06:49:49 AM »

Motor mounts are now tacked, I discovered that the 1KD factory mounts are a different angle then the frame side mounts on the 88. So, out came the grinder to clearance the mount to give us proper angle so the motor mounts are now in their neutral position, before you could tell they were tweaked to one side. Once I mount the transmission to see where i need to fab up a new trans mount I'll burn the motor mounts in completely, but after taking a bunch of measurements I'm pretty confident the mounts are in the correct spot.
Prado oil pan, well this pan may actually be worse as far as clearance to the front 3rd. The bottom sump comes out on the passenger side so far that the upper 3rd- link on the top of the diff that the oil pan fouls, so another hurdle i thought I had cleared.....

In the meantime, lets start labeling the wire harness, spent a bit making labels and cheat sheets.

T-Revv · « **Reply #9 on:** Jun 18, 2019, 03:39:22 PM »

I like where this is going. very nice build thus far, extrememly interested to see how it evolves.

RB · « **Reply #10 on:** Jun 25, 2019, 11:24:57 AM »

^^^ thanks, I haven't got much to report at the moment....
1. All engine bay connectors are labeled, working on laying out the wiring. body side wiring still needs attention
2. Engine sits too high int he engine bay, so will be cutting the motor mounts to drop the engine 3/4".
3. Assembling the transmission for a dry fit after engine is dropped.

I'll have more pics and updates soon

helipilot77 · « **Reply #11 on:** Jun 29, 2019, 06:10:13 AM »

How'd I miss your build thread? Nice work RB!

LittleSteve · « **Reply #12 on:** Oct 14, 2019, 01:27:23 PM »

I have a r series to kd bellhousing.
did you drive the KD before you bought it? have you driven a KD?

Atlcr · « **Reply #13 on:** Oct 14, 2019, 02:22:08 PM »

Great build keep the pictures coming.

rapier46 · « **Reply #14 on:** Oct 14, 2019, 02:49:50 PM »

You have my attention.

RB · « **Reply #15 on:** Oct 14, 2019, 03:41:34 PM »

Hey guys, sorry for the absence, didn’t realize anyone was paying attention haha.
I have stalled the 4runner build for a few months while I take a 07 Tacoma basket case and turn it into my daily since my trusty 92 pickup is rusting out from under me.
Thanks
RB

RB · « **Reply #16 on:** Apr 02, 2020, 01:05:45 PM »

So from October till mid January I was doing a frame off restoration on a 2007 Tacoma X-Runner to take duty as the new daily. You can see the process here:

X-runner build
X-Runner Restore

Now onto why we are here…
Trying to figure out where this engine needs to sit as there are some hard obstacles I need to stay clear of. One is the suspension as the 4Wheel Underground 3-link tucks up very high and the steering and pan hard are dangerously close to occupying the same space need for the oil pan. If that wasn’t enough the oil pan has a rather large protrusion on the passenger side, oddly this is also where the diff currently occupies. Further, the bell housing is quite deep and hits the tunnel, so big hammer, cut and reshape enough space for the bell housing to live and still allow access to the bolts for disassembly.

Haven’t measured 22r, but i believe this engine is a bit longer than a 22, and definitely longer than the haggard 3vze. This is making the placement in the engine bay a bit tight once the large aluminum radiator is installed. I don’t think I can even fit the mechanical fan in there without moving the core support and factory radiator mounts.

I have attached some pics for your quarantine viewing pleasure.

Bell house clearance, and the engine needs to move up about two inches.

Suspension clearance

cavey · « **Reply #17 on:** Apr 05, 2020, 03:08:11 AM »

If you have trouble getting the std fan to fit you may need to do what I did , I cut the mounting flange out of the plastic fan , then machined up 2 ally plates with a groove machined in one side to locate the fan and made it so the ally plate nearest the radiator mount to the thermo clutch, so the fan moved about 3/4" to 1"

T-Revv · « **Reply #18 on:** Apr 09, 2020, 03:18:00 PM »

Love the build and where its going. Looking forward to more. There are a few people on here that have done the KZ swap so Im sure any questions you have can get answered.

RB · « **Reply #19 on:** Apr 10, 2020, 05:23:55 AM »

Thanks for the replies folks.
The suggestion for the manual fan clearance is appreciated, however, I’m not sure it will give me enough room since I have a huge 4 core radiator. I’ll post up when I get back to the fan and radiator clearance.
While the KZ and KD engines share the same block and possibly bellhousings, my issues with engine placement ultimately stem from the 4-5” of uptravel on the 3-link SAS. If I didn’t have a pan-hard it may be an easier fit.
Hopefully I can get a bit more done this weekend.

helipilot77 · « **Reply #20 on:** Apr 11, 2020, 09:36:39 AM »

I notched the oil pan on my KZ for up travel clearance. You probably have more challenges with yours since you have a panhard. try installing the oil scavenging pickup without the pan and see if you could modify the pan to clear.

RB · « **Reply #21 on:** Jul 08, 2022, 08:53:05 AM »

2006 R151F to RF1A gear driven transfer case
Finally a working prototype of an adapter that hasn’t been available for 2yrs, but good luck getting information on tailhousing compatibility with our USD transmissions. More to come…

ScheierC12 · « **Reply #22 on:** Jul 10, 2022, 11:47:02 PM »

Looking good

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #23 on:** Jul 11, 2022, 02:51:30 AM »

Quote from: RB on Jul 08, 2022, 08:53:05 AM

2006 R151F to RF1A gear driven transfer case

It looks like Toyrankenstein has been at it again!!

So from stock mounted, you have to lengthen the front driveshaft and shorten the rear driveshaft, right?

Gnarls.

RB · « **Reply #24 on:** Jul 11, 2022, 06:53:48 AM »

Quote from: Gnarly4X on Jul 11, 2022, 02:51:30 AM

So from stock mounted, you have to lengthen the front driveshaft and shorten the rear driveshaft, right?

Yes, and I need to put the trans in so I can get measurements for the crossmember and drive shaft lengths

RB · « **Reply #25 on:** Jul 23, 2022, 06:55:58 AM »

Anyone have a forward (lo-hi side) shift rail they’d like to sell me? I have a top Mount shifter for my triple sticks, but I think I want to move it to the forward shift position for better packaging in the truck.

OVRAROK · « **Reply #26 on:** Jul 23, 2022, 10:18:50 AM »

Quote from: RB on Jul 23, 2022, 06:55:58 AM

Anyone have a forward (lo-hi side) shift rail they’d like to sell me? I have a top Mount shifter for my triple sticks, but I think I want to move it to the forward shift position for better packaging in the truck.

There are 2 different length forward shift rails, do you know which one.

RB · « **Reply #27 on:** Jul 23, 2022, 10:26:17 AM »

Quote from: OVRAROK on Jul 23, 2022, 10:18:50 AM

There are 2 different length forward shift rails, do you know which one.

I don’t know which so I can’t be a choosy begger. I think I could make either work.

OVRAROK · « **Reply #28 on:** Jul 23, 2022, 11:59:53 AM »

Is this what your looking for?

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

RB · « **Reply #29 on:** Jul 23, 2022, 01:30:43 PM »

Excellent, thank you, DM sent.

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