Topic: E-locker still won't disengage with actuator motor off

[ProfessorPeanut]

Sorry if this has been covered before, I had a hard time figuring out how to search for this.

Long story short, I built an 85 4runner from the ground up this winter and finally have it driveable so I'm trying to work out some of the bugs.

I put an elocker in the front axle and noticed it was binding all the time. I put the front axle on stands yesterday and tried to turn each wheel separately but notice my axle was still locked when the actuator motor was turned off. I pulled the motor off, slid the shift rail over as far as I could, but it still won't unlock. I'm on the road for the next few days so I'm trying to get some pointers for where to start when I get home.

When I hit the locker switch, it turns the indicator light on and off, which tells me that the shift rail is moving. I verified that the shift fork does move by hand. Maybe I forgot to put the shift forks on the locking mechanism? Maybe the ball detent is behind my shift rail, not allowing it to disengage entirely? I did rebuild the diffs this winter so I'm assuming I did something wrong on the assembly.

Any opinions are appreciated. Thanks guys

[RUGER]

are yer hubs unlocked or not disengaging.

RUGER   

[ProfessorPeanut [OP]]

My hubs disengage fine. It's also drives fine when I unlock my hubs. It's just when they are locked that I have issues, 2wd and 4wd.

[gnob]

If you cannot manually unlock it, it needs to come out. Simple as that.

Let us know what you find.

[ProfessorPeanut [OP]]

I also installed longfields if that means anything to anybody. I did have to grind out my knuckles to get them to fit. I don't hear anything rubbing when the axle is moving but I'm not counting that out quite yet.

[OOPS]

That should not stop it from un-locking, it is something in the locker itself!! I have no idea what it is because I am an ARB man!!

[ProfessorPeanut [OP]]

Alright internet world, get ready to have your mine blown. It was the silly cotter pin that has it's own installation hole under the motor. It was sticking out just enough to catch on the set screw that goes in the hole. It couldn't have been sticking out more than a 1/16", but it was enough to stop the motor from getting the locking mechanism completely out of the diff. The more you know I guess...  

P.S. I'll add a picture later when I figure out how to do it from my phone.

[blackdiamond]

Alright internet world, get ready to have your mine blown. It was the silly cotter pin that has it's own installation hole under the motor. It was sticking out just enough to catch on the set screw that goes in the hole. It couldn't have been sticking out more than a 1/16", but it was enough to stop the motor from getting the locking mechanism completely out of the diff. The more you know I guess...  

P.S. I'll add a picture later when I figure out how to do it from my phone.

Back from your trip so soon?  It's only been hours, so I assume you just couldn't wait!  Glad you figured it out.

[RUGER]

glad you got it squared away

RUGER 

[ProfessorPeanut [OP]]

Back from your trip so soon?  It's only been hours, so I assume you just couldn't wait!  Glad you figured it out.

I wish! I'm in the national guard, so I'm guaranteed to be gone all weekend. Fortunately since its a new build, a hauled a ton of tools with me in case I got bored/stuck. I think I just got lucky and was able to fix this by just pulling the actuator motors.

I hope this is the last of all my "new build" bugs, but we all know how that goes...

[Northboundtundra]

Sorry if this has been covered before, I had a hard time figuring out how to search for this.

Long story short, I built an 85 4runner from the ground up this winter and finally have it driveable so I'm trying to work out some of the bugs.

I put an elocker in the front axle and noticed it was binding all the time. I put the front axle on stands yesterday and tried to turn each wheel separately but notice my axle was still locked when the actuator motor was turned off. I pulled the motor off, slid the shift rail over as far as I could, but it still won't unlock. I'm on the road for the next few days so I'm trying to get some pointers for where to start when I get home.

When I hit the locker switch, it turns the indicator light on and off, which tells me that the shift rail is moving. I verified that the shift fork does move by hand. Maybe I forgot to put the shift forks on the locking mechanism? Maybe the ball detent is behind my shift rail, not allowing it to disengage entirely? I did rebuild the diffs this winter so I'm assuming I did something wrong on the assembly.

Any opinions are appreciated. Thanks guys

Is it a factory style locker.