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Depending on your fabrication skills, I don't see why you can't install any small V6 or 4 Cylinder. 22R or a 20R would be a fantastic choice, install a Weber and run it with very little connections. Block off the heater if you want, too. Wiring a 20/22R would be super simple, so you could easily mount it up with little to no factory harness modifications. Mechanical or electrical fuel pump, universal in that regard. If you run into space issues, you could run an electrical fan for more clearance. You could do a 22RE swap, but that would require a ton of wiring. You'd need the harness and ECU off the truck.
Notes:The Rocky and 4-cylinder charade engines do not seem to be good motors. Mine had a blown head gasket at a little over a hundred thousand miles, and shortly thereafter developed a rod knock. I am sorry to hear that yours is headed down a similar path. The 22R swap has been tricky. The engine fits fine in the engine bay, except that the starter motor fouls one of the hard brake lines. I still don't know what I'm going to do about that. I have a W56 on my engine, and it was a royal pain to get in because it fouls the cross-member that holds the torsion bars for the front IFS. Even if you're going to do a SAS I would hesitate to cut this cross member because it looks like it provides important bracing to the frame. Also, the rear driveline is going to be kinda short, but maybe doable. Maybe.That said, I did eventually get the W56 wrestled in there, with a helper. It took about two days, three jacks, two ratchet straps, and a chain. No, it was neither safe nor fun. Yes, with proper equipment it would have been a bit easier and safer.I like the R series engines, and aside from the brake line issue I think the 22R will probably be a good fit in the engine bay; I haven't completed the swap so believe me at your own risk. I think a V6 might be kind of a tight fit side-to-side in the Rocky engine bay, so measure carefully. That said, a V6 in a Rocky would be cool...
I'm quickly learning how to do "stuff," but some time ago, I had an older Impala with a carb...and I never could get that to run correctly. How "easy" is it to get a carb to run correctly? I will never plan to rock crawl where I would get into bizarre angles where I need fuel injection.I have to replace my entire dash and I have many wiring problems as it sits now. It drives fine (as far as electrical) but I have little gremlins everywhere. As I see this being something that would take two years, wiring isn't the end of the world, I like simple, too. I had just got the dual batteries in and running so I should have juice for anything as needed.I just pulled this off of Wikipedia:"A popular modification to the early 22R is to use a 20R head. This head has smaller combustion chambers, giving a higher compression ratio, which then allows more power to be developed. The 20R head can also flow better than the 22R head, which improves high RPM power. The 20R head is a simple bolt-on modification for the pre-1985 block, but also requires the use of the 20R intake manifold, making it almost impossible (there’s a lot of matching necessary) to use with the 22RE EFI system. For blocks 1985 and onwards, further modifications are required."Is this a true thing? I figure if I'm doing a swap, I don't want to have exactly the same power as before...a bump would make it worthwhile. 150 is the max I would want to do.
All years of 22r are good 81-95. Earlier years, pre 85 i think , have dual row timing chains. 85+ may be best if you ever have to rebuild it I put a 20r/L45?/toy axles in a samurai. The 20r was a good power upgrade over the samurai engine. The 20r is a tough motor. I wouldnt count it out ,if you can get a good deal on oneI would guess a 20r/22r-re/2rz/3rz could all be made to fit. There is an engine the samurai guys like a lot. It comes out of the tracker or sidekick, i cant remember. Good luck
One of the comments before stated that going carbed would eliminate the wiring issues, which I guess I would go with a 22r then, pre-1984?I truly don't mind giving anything a shot, engine wise, and I'm not getting a lot of bites regarding a GM motor, and I have no problems with Toyota stuff. But aside from a computer swap/shenanigans, I felt I should decide on a motor (as much as I can) before then trying to handle the wiring, even in theory. I thought the motor was all good so I added dual batteries and a winch on the front end, so I added 200lbs or so there...I want to be mindful of how much an engine weighs.The Rocky has 7in Toyota clone differentials in it. When you put in Toy axles, did you go 7 or 8, or something else?
I agree with a 20/22R. Everything I'm seeing that talks about how bulletproof the 20 is might lead me to go that way. A check of one easy place (Car-Part.com) shows the same place north of Buffalo with each types there, and I haven't even called the local places not tied into CP. I know there's a 20 near me, but that truck is sitting in the mud, with the engine touching mud for at least a decade.I don't mean reading links that you all come up with; if any of you have a checklist or site or whatever that has suggestions for how not to get hosed as a I get a used engine, I'm all ears. I am definitely gun shy about spending money, getting one home, and finding out that "oh by the way, the block is cracked/head's been decked 9 times" etc. I'm a teacher, so I'm all about reading!
I understand and agree totally. In fact, NOT doing this is why I'm here in the first place. I thought I did enough...but obviously did not.I'm now searching local non-index salvaged yards, but I've got to find a good link for what to do when I travel to that yard. I mentioned I found an early 20R already....but at least the bottom end has been in mud for ages. I supposed I could buy something reconditioned (I found sites that sell both 22Rs and 20Rs refurbed...I don't know how that compares with the overall cost of finding something in the pick-n-pull) but I don't know which is best. In my searches I've found enough tales of caution to truly be unsure which is best to avoid getting hosed. I am truly in undiscovered territory on this one.
Two V6 8-inch axles (both 1989s, a 4 Runner and an Xtracab) and a 4-cyl 8 inch (4x4 short bed, also a 1989).
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