Topic: Snowballing Drivetrain Order

[Dr Phat]

So my project took a long back burner ride with life getting in the way since I last posted anything. (Buying a house, dogs, house renovations, fiance) But Im looking to start up again on my long term 1984 Pickup build.

The only thing is I have not figured out how to approach the drivetrain. I have a 6.5" lift from All-Pro so to run the truck as is, I need new driveshafts. The rear axle (from what I understand) I either need to shim or weld new hangers so the pinion is pointed/angled at the transfer case. I dont have the bed completed so I have a feeling all these angles are going to change as the weight and springs breaking in will cause everything to shift so I feel like I should order a bunch of shims to dial it in. However should I complete the bed first in order to figure out my correct rear DS length or do you all think it shouldnt effect it to much?

My other question is that eventually I want to run dual cases, however I would assume if ordered new DS for how my truck sits now, the new shafts would not be the correct lengths after that. So Im on the fence of just sucking it up and dropping dual cases in all at once or just do shafts to get it on the road and drop a 4.7 gear in the case to hold me over. Obviously the first option is $$$.

[redneckcustoms13]

If money is tight save up longer. I know it sounds harsh but these cats get big money for a long slip front driveshaft. I have had dual 2.28, single 4.7, and dual ultimate (2.28×4.7=10.716). I can say dual 2.28 is better than single 4.7. But the dual ultimate deserves its name. The single 4.7 is good as long as you a 5.29 gear. 4.10 gear and single 4.7 sucks on 35s with a 22r.

Buy the doubler. Build a dual 2.28 set with 23 spline. get the truck on its final weight and measure for driveline. Enjoy it until you have the money for a 4.7 rear case if you decide you need it.

[Dr Phat [OP]]

Yeah if I went to a doubler I would do ultimates for sure, with a 2.28 x 4.7 in the case with a 23 spline output. I should mention I do have 5.29s already front and rear (spooled front and EZ Locker Rear) and 37s for it. The other part of the equation though is I live in South Florida now so duals is super overkill however the ultimate goal is to trailer it to wherever for actual rock crawling (and also get groceries because why not?). Im just torn because I would love to get this project at a minimum driveable, but Im going to pay way more money to do in stages vs just putting all the cash up front.

[Snowtoy]

If you are still a few yrs away from towing it to out of state rock trails, I would just put drivelines in it now, so you can use it, you wont be out that much money cuttingdown the rear and extending the front drivelines once you put the dual cases.

[toyodaaddict]

I would go with stock 2.28 x 2.28 duals and worry about the 4.7s later. I would also get the weight on the truck before measuring for the driveline.

[OVRAROK]

I would go with stock 2.28 x 2.28 duals and worry about the 4.7s later. I would also get the weight on the truck before measuring for the driveline.

I agree. This way, you get DL the right length. Should be able to cover the cost of driveshaft with money for 4.7 gears. I would install bed, and about half your carrying weight. Then set rear pinion angle

[Dr Phat [OP]]

Thanks for all the input guys! I think I have a plan now, helps getting it all written out and hearing other peoples inputs.

1) Having a friend/shop build the bed for me. Original plan was to do the All-Pro flat bed kit but they start and stop selling the kit alot and with the recent Trail Gear takeover Im not exactly excited to wait and see what they come up with or when. I thought about just getting a bender and doing it myself but Im not sure I would get much use out of a bender after the project is done. (I work offshore too so I can just drop it off before I head to work for a month and pick it up when I get back)

2) While the trucks getting worked on I can have a garage really freed up and plenty of room to work on setting up a dual box. 2.28 x 2.28 for sure, maybe a 2.28 x 4.7 Id like to get in there once and just do everything.

3) Once the truck is back I can pop the crawler box back in and really get the DL lengths dialed in correctly now the truck is weighted properly. I will probably shim to rear to start then once the springs get settled and broken in I can weld my HD perches on with the pinion angle set correctly.