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Based on what you are wheeling and how long you have wheeled IFS, no need for an SAS, dual cases and a dual ARB's will be a night and day difference over what you have now, likely allowing you to wheel over the areas now with one attempt over 3-5. If wanting to save money, I would run duals, regear/ARB for the rear diff, and just regear the front diff or install a factory 4.88 diff if you can find one, you may find you don't need a front ARB for the trails you run.As far as being concerned about being "that guy" who slows others down, don't be, better to be the guy that slows others down, than the guy that stops them due to breaking their junk because they were driving the trail too fast.
I like this. ARB/4.88 rear. Factory 4.88 open front and dual cases would be quite the upgrade. I dont know how much abuse a locked IFS diff would take. I don't think I'd want to put ARB money into an IFS diff either.
Is an extended travel IFS upgrade a viable option for better articulation after doing diffs, lockers, etc? (I know it will not provide as much articulation as SAS)Does XIFS cost more, less, or the same as a SAS?
Should I just bite the bullet and do a SAS before the other upgrades? If so, can it be done without increasing the vehicle height and messing up the on road handling?
Everyone’s comments about leaving the front end open suggests that the IFS is not strong enough to put an ARB on the front.
If, after running this setup, I decide I still want better performance, I could either risk an ARB up front and be careful not to blow it out (maybe go with a twin stick to easily disengage for turns, etc) or go for the ultimate solution with the SAS and an ARB up front (if I want to put more $ into this rig). This way, if I go SAS later, I am only out the cost of the front end regear. Sound right?
Since I have never had full lockers, I have no idea how capable the rig will be with only a rear locker and LSD front. I just assumed it would be best to have lockers both front and back. Will just the rear locker make that much difference?
So, If I go this route - regear the front diff, do the dual case and rear locker & gears, what are the other drive line components I should plan on upgrading to avoid breakdowns on the trail?
I would describe a locked rear/open front vs open/open as a night and day difference. locked axles are a game changer, even if just the rear. I think the locked rear/LSD front will work well for you.If you're not already, make sure to use solid pinion spacers. Make sure your tcase mounts are in good shape. Other than that, I cant think of anything you need to plan on upgrading based on adding dual cases and a rear locker. Actually, trail damage will probably be less likely. The cases and locker will allow you to get through obstacles with out having to "get on it" as much.
Exactly what I am looking for...BTW what are solid pinion spacers - first I have heard of them...
Actually it is, if used as a tool, like I said I have a tru-trac in the front of mine, and have yet to break a CV, and it is engaged all the time. My plan is to go with an ARB at some point, don't care for the lockers mannerism w/the 4wd engaged on the highway.
With the rear ARB, it will be night and day, kind of like going from the 28's to 33's, your first time out compared to having 100's of hours of seat time. The one thing that I noticed with the ARB the first time I engaged it, is that you are pretty much along for the ride, as it wants to push you in straight line.Given how long you have been wheeling without either, you will likely use the the dual cases and ARB like tools, i.e., try a section with the stock low and open rear, can't get it, engage the ARB, or need to go slower, engage the dual case.
https://www.marlincrawler.com/differential/parts/solid-pinion-spacer-kitSolid pinion spacer replaces the crush sleeve in the diff. It's the way to go, especially with a locker.
Other than lengthening teh front/shortening the rear drtivelines, nothing needs to be done w/the trans/driveline/rear axle, it was over engineered to start with, and is pretty much used as a 1 ton drivetrain in most parts of the world.
No need for twins for a front ARB, all you have to do is flip a switch, most I know leave the ARB's disengaged unless needed.
In re a rear locker: I have limited experience, so take what I say with a grain of salt, but:If you are open/open then anytime diagonally opposite wheels leave the ground, you lose all participation by the engine (obviously)If you have LSD/LSD, the even if diagonally opposite wheels leave the ground, the engine still exerts a little force on the truckBut if you have lock/open or lock/anything, the engine has a rigid link to at least one wheel on the ground, unless an entire axle is in the air (it happens, but it's far less common). Often in good conditions (good tires, good surface, angles not too crazy etc) this one wheel is enough to move the truck.(Obviously lock/lock gives you traction to as many wheels as are touching anything)
This is exactly what I am looking for – options when a tough spot comes up. I could really use the tools as you describe them to work an obstacle.
Everyone I talk to comments how over engineered the Hilux is. Good to know that there is not a lot of other drive train upgrades that are needed. All my Jeep friends have had to upgrade axles, etc. after they get that ‘pling’ gassing it with their V8’s. Nice to putt along with my little inline 4 and an over engineered drive line!
I guess the only real advantage of the twin stick is to get 2 low if I am too lazy to lock the hubs for 4 low. I read that many people run 2 low on the trail a lot to minimize wear on the front end. Seems like one more tool to add to the box for not too much money. Can you run twins on the dual transfer cases? Any other advantages other than 2 low?
I wheeled the hard stuff in Moab in my ‘85 with a single 4.70:1 t-case, a Detroit locker in the rear, and a Truetrac in the front. It was the same as the Aussie locker front when I upgraded, but it did great. With dual ultimate gearing you could easily power brake it a bit to help the front engage.
if you go duals i would recommend a new mount/skid plate CB
With dual cases, you will have the option of running in stock 2wd low, the front case is either H-N-L. Twins on the rear t-case will give you the option of 4.7 2wd low, or stock+4.7 low. I have used 2wd low when in stop and go traffic, but also used to use it w/o dual cases, I have also found 2wd low useful for backing up a trailer. Not sure what you would use stock+4.7 2wd low for, but like with most things, better to have the option if/when you need it, then to need it and not have it.
I noticed that you have the dual ultimate and twin sticks - do you recommend the twin sticks? Do you find it useful? How do you use the twins?Thanks!
Any suggestions for a source on this or does it need to be custom fabricated?
Yes, I have tried the power braking trick, but I usually can't do it without killing the engine. Like you, I am thinking that with the dual ultimate I can do that to engage the front - another reason I am now leaning toward doing the rear ARB and just regearing the front.
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