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. I guess this old toyota stuff isint interesting anymore, HAHAHA.
I dig the fab work you've done, but my understanding is that the factory EFI system is not very flexible and fairly intolerant of HP adding mods.That's the reason I'm sticking with a Weber on my hybrid motor.I do wonder though, could you get an aftermarket controller/ECM to work with the stock EFI manifold? If so, that would offer up the tuning flexibility you need.
....This is an important thing to consider, if you have a surfaced head or block, ...
... If the port is designed properly a high swirl can be built into it. When all is said and done it should be hard to tell from stock.
.... In my case Im betting I can get some more bottom end with a cam adjustment.
Gnarly thanks for all the info, Im not necessarily looking for more power, just that the power come on a little sooner,
What RPM range do you want more torque? ... Like off idle to what? I have done all the cam comparisons for TORQUE.It is interesting that LCE's split cam and Schneider's split cam are suggested for EFI. I can show you the numbers.Mamma ECU apparently does not like too much overlap.Gnarls.
RPMs, cant say, My POS doesnt have a tach, HAHA. It does zero in the way of trying to spin the "tire"HAHAHA, ....I am actually running the EFI PRO cam, which is very close to the Pro Torquer. The EFI PRO has even more built in advance.
The importance of cam timing adjustments is VERY dependant on the cam profile. Cam timing adjustments for decking a block or a head can be made very easily just with the head gasket thickness. So its not necessary to buy an ACG and fart around with butt-dyno testing.H8PVMNT should have some interesting comments on his experimenting with cam timing.On a 22R/RE block, with a Toyota factory camshaft, the number of degrees, either advanced or retard change from zero, and the actual measurable affect on power is greater than a couple cam degrees. A common block deck at a machine shop is about .006 to .010 to clean the deck. At .010 off the block deck the cam timing change, retarded, would be difficult to even measure on an engine dyno or butt-dyno.All of the port work or whatever magic poop is done, without a flow bench and an engine dyno, your butt dyno may not be accurate enough to measure the desired change.The Toyota factory ECU and sensors on a stock 22RE is just not going to allow very significant performance changes, as would be measured with a carbd engine.From a factory stock 22R, rebuilding to .060 over bore, raising compression to 10:1, adding a DT header with an opened exhaust, a torquey cam, you could probably gain 20 to 25 HP and 15 to 20 lbs of torque.Those changes on a stock 22RE might not produce the same increase in power.Gnarls.
Have you started this? I ask because the square(rectangle) port shape of the EFI runner is important to the injector positioning. If you reshape the EFI runner to a round shape you will cut off the area the injector sprays. Just wondering if you covered this? The adapter plate option worked really good, the port differences are so minute the 3/4 adapter makes a nice transition.BTW mine runs awesome. Im super impressed with the power, I dont know if you have ever drove an auto 22RE, but now mine will cruise in OD at 60 or 65, whatever. Where most will shift down trying to cruise at those speeds. And rips up to 80 pretty good.
The importance of cam timing adjustments is VERY dependant on the cam profile. Cam timing adjustments for decking a block or a head can be made very easily – just with the head gasket thickness. So it’s not necessary to buy an ACG and fart around with butt-dyno testing.H8PVMNT should have some interesting comments on his experimenting with cam timing.On a 22R/RE block, with a Toyota factory camshaft, the number of degrees, either advanced or retard change from zero, and the actual measurable affect on power is greater than a couple cam degrees. A common block deck at a machine shop is about .006” to .010” to “clean” the deck. At .010” off the block deck the cam timing change, retarded, would be difficult to even measure on an engine dyno or butt-dyno.All of the port work or whatever magic poop is done, without a flow bench and an engine dyno, your butt dyno may not be accurate enough to measure the desired change.The Toyota factory ECU and sensors on a stock 22RE is just not going to allow very significant performance changes, as would be measured with a carb’d engine.From a factory stock 22R, rebuilding to .060” over bore, raising compression to 10:1, adding a DT header with an opened exhaust, a torquey cam, you could probably gain 20 to 25 HP and 15 to 20 lbs of torque.Those changes on a stock 22RE might not produce the same increase in power.Gnarls.
Runs Awesome! Its a kick in the a$$ to drive. With the 4.88's it no longer hunts for what gear to be in. Kick on OD and it stays there, or kick it off for a hell of a passing gear. I still would like a CAI and put on the supra AFM. And degree the cam.
As far as engine specs most of what I know is posted above. Things I dont know are compression ratio, over bore. What was it you were interested in knowing?As far as a Dyno run, that would be fun, but realistically, probably never happen. I live 3 hrs from any major city, and at this moment Im to busy to have that on my priority list.
Hey 44…Congrats on getting your engine up and running!My interest is perhaps taking your engine specs and plugging them into my Engine Analyzer. Over past 19 years I’ve done 100’s of mock pulls on my desktop dyno software with many of cam profiles and 100's changes in engine specs. I’ve spent 1000's of hours doing research… and still know just enough to be dangerous! My research has been mainly on the 22R and 22RE, and some on the 20Rs. I started out wanting to see how I could get more torque between 2500 and 3500 RPMs out of my 96 HP 22R.I am always fascinated by the DIYer in his garage or backyard doing whatever he thinks is making a difference.I’m old school and believe that a multi-billion dollar Toyota has the smartest automotive engineers on the planet and get to “play” in a multi-million dollar “shop”. So when it comes to guys hacking up or modifying something, it is typically an anecdotal reply with virtually no proof, like a dyno test before and after, just their butt-dyno report. Which, by the way, butt-dyno reporting does have some merit. With that said, I also admire the people who come up with all the modifications beyond factory that have created some of best enhancements and performance gains on many engines over many decades.I apologize if I am not quite sure what has been done to your engine?Most info is above.Here are some flow numbers for 20R stage 3 headhttp://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/techpages/eng121.htmlYou took a running engine, added RE EFI and added it to your modified adapter?YESDid you buy and install the LCE cam and header? What size exhaust tubing are your running with what muffler or any CAT?LCE EFI PRO CAM, LCE HEADER, 2.25 exhaust no cat, 12" thrush turbo mufflerCAM INFO https://www.lceperformance.com/EFI-Pro-Camshaft-22RE-RET-p/1022021.htmI assume you checked the cam timing with a degree wheel?Yes, its retarded 2.5 degrees, and would like to know RPM shift and torque gains of 0 or advanced Have you installed the adjustable cam gear?No Have you done a compression test?No I haventWhat fuel octane are your running and what is your elevation?89 non ethanol , 3500ftOn the Carillo pistons, do you know what the part number is? I am unaware that Carillo makes a piston specifically for an early Toyota 2X?CP are sold from LCE as their pro pistons. I dont have positive specifics, but near as I can tell they are 9.7 compression. But with a 20r head thats shaved a little I cant say what the final compression is.Just curious.Gnarls.
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