0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
My version of The Big Three, So recently we had to snow in western Washington and My Story begins with going out and having a good time in the snow in my 1984 straight axle xcab Toyota pickup it's lifted on a set of 35 Goodyear mtrs and I got about a 5 inch lift on it through all pro Off Road. So when me and my buddy presume to go ﬁnd our way into a ditch I relied on my trusty Warn m8000 lay down style winch to pull me out of the snow ridden hole , now currently I'm running a 1994 22RE California emission spec motor with a 70 amp alternator, at the time I had the winch directly grounded to the frame not to the battery also my battery leads from my frame to my battery were not adequate enough sizing for the amperage ﬂow this is a very common mistake amongst people with winches not realizing that directly ground onto the battery is crucial one i made , anyhow I also had some corroded ground connections at the bottom of my winch motor housing which probably didn't help things , Anyway I have a fully charged 750 cold cranking amps starting battery that the winch is also hooked to so power-wise the winch is good on enough power to make at least a good two pulls or so, now I hooked up my winch and hit my button to winch out and all i got was my winch line pulled taught, and then I tried to hit the button again and all it did was drain my electrical system of power and kill my vehicle untill i let off this was all probably due to a bad ground and inadequate ground sizing of the cables from frame to battery, now I have since changed all of that and moved the battery ground from the chassis for the winch motor casing, directley to the battery like warn recommends since all of this i unspooled my cable to straighten it out and my motor sized on winching my cable out vary odd, so i disconnected the control pack and tested the winch motor itself and i got nothing. so its time to tare the winch down and out of the front bumper and do some investigating on whats going on on, and why its not working, now keep in mind all i was doing was unspooling my cable with no load on the motor not running the motor any longer then i have controller wire length "ruffley 15 feet ." so i don't think i got the motor hott so i'm thinking its got sized in the houseing by chance but any ways i will provide updates on that when i get the bumper off the truck. Now that i am this deep into things with having a power problem with my winch, that kinda upset me even tho it was a ground, thss far that i can point my finger at, I strive to have strong well managed electrical system on my trucks, now since i am on the constant quest of trying to make the absolute most of my money like any one i would presume, i am looking to optimize my charging system on all THREE of my toyota's at the SAME TIME. Now i own a 1987 Toyota 4Runner that is basically stock but I also own a 1980 Toyota pickup that is is my trailer queen for off road only, its lifted and has all the bells and whistles it runs on propane and it also has an on-board air compressor that has the auxiliary alternator bolted to that,And this is how my version of The Big 3 starts my version is slightly different than what u will find if u search google for THE BIG THREE , but will also include the three main negative cables of your vehicle to be improved for better electrical ﬂow, like the internet articles show, my 1980 Toyota pickup which is running a 22r ,and currently is running a 60 amp Internally regulated factory Nippon Denso alternator in the stock location which I wired in from a later model fuel injected Toyota 22re truck to better suit the needs of the vehicles demands, which before it was running an externally regulated 40 amp alternator which is a very poor design. now I have winches on the front and the rear of this rig I have auxiliary lighting and I also have aux fans I got warn M8274 in the front bumper and one M8274 in the rear bumper and I have LED rock lighting everywhere probably about 22 of them including a high output LED light bar from KC highlights now to power all of that I'm currently running a optiama yellow top with a 1100 cca rateing and A 1995 Cadillac Fleet wood Brougham,GM CS144 series alternator which is rated for a round 140 amps, and now i'm going to be currently changing the conﬁgurations of all three of my trucks my entire goal is to upgrade and optimize the charging performance of each one of these rigs with as little money as possible and with what I have available to me that I already ownall three trucks have dual batteries systems in them and all three trucks systems are complete different from each other so shall we begain all the fun!!!! my 80' has two alternators one stock that powers nothing more than the truck it self aka; the starter, headlights, heater,radio,and Ignition. all this from a good starting battery of coarse And my aux system runs everything else winchs lights etc... its powered by the optima yellow top stated earlier and the alternator is fed thew a 150 amp re settable breaker all leads from alternator are #2 braided Welding lead so ampere and voltage loss over distance shod not present it self as a problem now my 84 xcab has a 70 amp factory Nippon Denso oval plug alternator, now its charge signal is being sent to a sure power 90 amp rated dual battery issolator witch sends the chargeing rate to witch battery needs it by demand of the battery, i have a wet cell lead acid up front in stock location and a dry cell in the bed for my aux battery and my 87 4runner it has 85 22re motor in it and has a 60 amp round pulg factory Nippon Denso alternator in it powering a CTEK D250S dual battery issolator and Solar panel MPPT Regulator built in, that battery isolator feeds a lead acid starting battery in stock location. 60 amps from D250S charges the stock battery and a 25 amp charge with a 5 step smart chargeing rate monitors the health and state of charge of that yellow top group 24 mounted in spare tire loaction under the cargo area on this truckso now how am i going to make these systems even better
How does the lower mount of the Jag compare to the Toy? Looking at the picks on Rockauto, if the plugs are wired the same, it could be a bolt-in replacement.
Great, that just leaves the wiring of the plug, which if it isn't wired the same would be an easy fix. Looks like I Will have to grab one next trip to the wrecking yards.
Started by Sluice Box Hero
Project Research and Build-Ups
Started by 4xtoy
Chit Chat Camp
Started by badmoonrising
« 1 2 »
Toyota Tacoma/4Runner/T100/Tundra/FJ Cruiser 1995+
Started by snowplow
Started by BigMike
New Announcements and Info