Author Topic: my version of the big three  (Read 672 times)

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tanabuse

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my version of the big three
« on: Feb 23, 2019, 10:13:48 AM »
My version of The Big Three,

 So recently we had to snow in western Washington and My Story begins with going out and having a good time in the snow in my 1984 straight axle xcab Toyota pickup it's lifted on a set of 35 Goodyear mtrs and I got about a 5 inch lift on it through all pro Off Road. So when me and my buddy presume to go find our way into a ditch I relied on my trusty Warn  m8000 lay down style winch to pull me out of the snow ridden hole , now currently I'm running a 1994 22RE California emission spec motor with a 70 amp alternator, at the time I had the winch directly grounded to the frame not to the battery also my battery leads from my frame to my battery were not adequate enough sizing for the amperage flow this is a very common mistake amongst people with winches not realizing that directly ground onto the battery is crucial one i made  :hammerhead:, anyhow I also had some corroded ground connections at the bottom of my winch motor housing which probably didn't help things , Anyway I have a fully charged 750 cold cranking amps starting battery that the winch is also hooked to so power-wise the winch is good on  enough power to make at least a good two pulls or so, now I hooked up my winch and hit my button to winch out and all i got  was  my winch line  pulled taught,  and then I tried to hit the button again and all it did was drain my electrical system of power  and kill my vehicle untill i let off  this was all probably due to a bad ground and inadequate ground sizing of the cables from frame to battery,  now I have since  changed all of that and moved the battery ground from the chassis for the winch motor casing, directley to the battery  like warn recommends 
since all of this i unspooled my cable to straighten it out and my motor sized on winching my cable out vary odd, so i disconnected the control pack and tested the winch motor itself and i got nothing. so its time to tare the winch down and out of the front bumper and do some investigating on whats going on on, and why its not working, now keep in mind all i was doing was unspooling my cable with no load on the motor not running the motor any longer then i have controller wire length "ruffley 15 feet ." so i don't think i got the motor hott so i'm thinking its got sized in the houseing by chance but any ways i will provide updates on that when i get the bumper off the truck.
Now that i am this deep into things with having a power problem with my winch, that  kinda upset me even tho it was a ground, thss far that i can point my finger at, I strive to have strong well managed electrical system on my trucks, now since i am on the constant quest of trying to make the absolute most of my money like any one i would presume, i am looking  to optimize my charging system on all THREE of my toyota's at the SAME TIME. Now i own a 1987 Toyota 4Runner that is basically stock but I also own a 1980 Toyota pickup  that is is my trailer queen for off road only,  its lifted and has all the bells and whistles it runs on propane and it also has an on-board air compressor that has the auxiliary alternator bolted to that,


And this is how my version of The Big 3 starts my version is slightly different than what u will find if u search google for  THE BIG THREE , but will  also include the three main negative cables of your vehicle to be improved for better electrical flow, like the internet articles show, my 1980 Toyota pickup which is running a 22r ,and  currently is running a 60 amp Internally regulated factory Nippon Denso alternator in the stock location  which I wired in from a later model fuel injected Toyota 22re truck to better suit the needs of the vehicles demands,  which before it was running an externally regulated 40 amp alternator  which is a very poor design. now I have winches on the front and the rear of this rig I have auxiliary lighting and I also have aux fans I got warn M8274  in the front bumper and one  M8274 in the rear bumper  and I have LED rock  lighting everywhere probably about 22 of them including a high output LED light bar from KC highlights now to power all of that I'm currently running a optiama yellow top with a 1100 cca rateing and A 1995 Cadillac Fleet wood Brougham,GM CS144 series alternator which is rated for a round 140 amps, and now i'm going to be currently changing the configurations of all three of my trucks my entire goal is to upgrade and optimize the charging performance of each one of these rigs with as little money as possible and with what I have available to me  that I already own



all three trucks have dual batteries systems in them and all three trucks systems are complete different from each other so shall we begain all the fun!!!! :smokin:

my 80' has two alternators one stock that powers nothing more than the truck it self aka; the starter, headlights, heater,radio,and Ignition. all this from a good starting battery of coarse
And my aux system runs everything else winchs lights etc... its powered by the optima yellow top stated earlier  and the alternator is fed thew a 150 amp  re settable breaker
all leads from alternator are #2 braided Welding lead  so ampere and voltage loss over distance shod not  present it self as a problem

now my 84 xcab has a 70 amp  factory Nippon Denso  oval plug alternator, now its charge signal  is being sent to a sure power 90 amp rated dual battery issolator  witch sends the chargeing rate to witch battery needs it by demand of the battery, i have a wet cell lead acid up front in stock location and a dry cell in the bed for my aux battery


and my 87 4runner it has 85 22re motor in it and has a 60 amp round pulg factory Nippon Denso alternator in it powering a CTEK D250S dual battery issolator and Solar panel MPPT  Regulator built in,  that battery isolator  feeds a lead acid starting battery in stock location. 60 amps from D250S charges the stock battery and a 25 amp charge with a 5 step smart chargeing rate monitors the health and state of charge of that  yellow top group 24 mounted in spare tire loaction under  the cargo area on this truck

so now how am i going to make these systems even better



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tanabuse [OP]

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Re: my version of the big three
« Reply #1 on: Feb 23, 2019, 10:57:33 AM »
having problems finding the best way to get pixs up with minimal amount of effort  for resizeing them can lol can any one help with this is there a way to just chnage my restitution on my phone and post right off my phone such say with tapatalk?
it could make this a vary pix heavy post if some one could help clue me in 
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tanabuse [OP]

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Re: my version of the big three
« Reply #2 on: Feb 23, 2019, 11:21:57 AM »
My version of The Big Three,

 So recently we had to snow in western Washington and My Story begins with going out and having a good time in the snow in my 1984 straight axle xcab Toyota pickup it's lifted on a set of 35 Goodyear mtrs and I got about a 5 inch lift on it through all pro Off Road. So when me and my buddy presume to go find our way into a ditch I relied on my trusty Warn  m8000 lay down style winch to pull me out of the snow ridden hole , now currently I'm running a 1994 22RE California emission spec motor with a 70 amp alternator, at the time I had the winch directly grounded to the frame not to the battery also my battery leads from my frame to my battery were not adequate enough sizing for the amperage flow this is a very common mistake amongst people with winches not realizing that directly ground onto the battery is crucial one i made  :hammerhead:, anyhow I also had some corroded ground connections at the bottom of my winch motor housing which probably didn't help things , Anyway I have a fully charged 750 cold cranking amps starting battery that the winch is also hooked to so power-wise the winch is good on  enough power to make at least a good two pulls or so, now I hooked up my winch and hit my button to winch out and all i got  was  my winch line  pulled taught,  and then I tried to hit the button again and all it did was drain my electrical system of power  and kill my vehicle untill i let off  this was all probably due to a bad ground and inadequate ground sizing of the cables from frame to battery,  now I have since  changed all of that and moved the battery ground from the chassis for the winch motor casing, directley to the battery  like warn recommends 
since all of this i unspooled my cable to straighten it out and my motor sized on winching my cable out vary odd, so i disconnected the control pack and tested the winch motor itself and i got nothing. so its time to tare the winch down and out of the front bumper and do some investigating on whats going on on, and why its not working, now keep in mind all i was doing was unspooling my cable with no load on the motor not running the motor any longer then i have controller wire length "ruffley 15 feet ." so i don't think i got the motor hott so i'm thinking its got sized in the houseing by chance but any ways i will provide updates on that when i get the bumper off the truck.
Now that i am this deep into things with having a power problem with my winch, that  kinda upset me even tho it was a ground, thss far that i can point my finger at, I strive to have strong well managed electrical system on my trucks, now since i am on the constant quest of trying to make the absolute most of my money like any one i would presume, i am looking  to optimize my charging system on all THREE of my toyota's at the SAME TIME. Now i own a 1987 Toyota 4Runner that is basically stock but I also own a 1980 Toyota pickup  that is is my trailer queen for off road only,  its lifted and has all the bells and whistles it runs on propane and it also has an on-board air compressor that has the auxiliary alternator bolted to that,


And this is how my version of The Big 3 starts my version is slightly different than what u will find if u search google for  THE BIG THREE , but will  also include the three main negative cables of your vehicle to be improved for better electrical flow, like the internet articles show, my 1980 Toyota pickup which is running a 22r ,and  currently is running a 60 amp Internally regulated factory Nippon Denso alternator in the stock location  which I wired in from a later model fuel injected Toyota 22re truck to better suit the needs of the vehicles demands,  which before it was running an externally regulated 40 amp alternator  which is a very poor design. now I have winches on the front and the rear of this rig I have auxiliary lighting and I also have aux fans I got warn M8274  in the front bumper and one  M8274 in the rear bumper  and I have LED rock  lighting everywhere probably about 22 of them including a high output LED light bar from KC highlights now to power all of that I'm currently running a optiama yellow top with a 1100 cca rateing and A 1995 Cadillac Fleet wood Brougham,GM CS144 series alternator which is rated for a round 140 amps, and now i'm going to be currently changing the configurations of all three of my trucks my entire goal is to upgrade and optimize the charging performance of each one of these rigs with as little money as possible and with what I have available to me  that I already own



all three trucks have dual batteries systems in them and all three trucks systems are complete different from each other so shall we begain all the fun!!!! :smokin:

my 80' has two alternators one stock that powers nothing more than the truck it self aka; the starter, headlights, heater,radio,and Ignition. all this from a good starting battery of coarse
And my aux system runs everything else winchs lights etc... its powered by the optima yellow top stated earlier  and the alternator is fed thew a 150 amp  re settable breaker
all leads from alternator are #2 braided Welding lead  so ampere and voltage loss over distance shod not  present it self as a problem

now my 84 xcab has a 70 amp  factory Nippon Denso  oval plug alternator, now its charge signal  is being sent to a sure power 90 amp rated dual battery issolator  witch sends the chargeing rate to witch battery needs it by demand of the battery, i have a wet cell lead acid up front in stock location and a dry cell in the bed for my aux battery


and my 87 4runner it has 85 22re motor in it and has a 60 amp round pulg factory Nippon Denso alternator in it powering a CTEK D250S dual battery issolator and Solar panel MPPT  Regulator built in,  that battery isolator  feeds a lead acid starting battery in stock location. 60 amps from D250S charges the stock battery and a 25 amp charge with a 5 step smart chargeing rate monitors the health and state of charge of that  yellow top group 24 mounted in spare tire loaction under  the cargo area on this truck

so now how am i going to make these systems even better
So these are the alternators that I have chosen the very first alternator the single alternator in the picture is a 210 - 0406.
This is a factory Jaguar nippondenso 3 wire round plug 120 amp alternator.   
This will be the replacement for my 1984 Toyota pickup.  This alternator will replace the 70 amp unit and will be a amperage jump of 50 amps over stock configuration.
 The two alternators are different in the picture as well, the one is a GM CS144  this unit is coming off of my 1980 Toyota rock crawler and will be the replacement alternator for my 87 Toyota 4runner
So my amperage will go from 60 amps to 140 amps this will be an 80 amp jump Improvement Overstock

And foremost and finally the last alternator in the picture which has a chrome finish and I acquired for free is a lesstek.  9135 DG, it's a 135  dual isolated output ,
These alternators were designed for Vixen and Holiday Rambler motorhomes and are considered a more commercial grade and more robust alternator.
This alternator uses 6x35 amp press-fit positive diodes and 3x35 amp negative press-fit diodes 
I brought this alternator into my local auto electric shop they tested it it came out good and they sold me a voltage regulator for about 65 bucks my plan here is to link the two terminals that come off of this alternator which are designed to charge two battery banks on a motorhome a Bank Of Starting batteries for the motor side and a bank of batteries for the house side of the motorhome. and just run the  linked 2 terminals to a  bank of batteries in the bed of my off road truck for Optimum power for winching capabilities put in mind my plan  here at the end of all this will be to have  two  hot 850 cold cranking amps starting batteries for this alternator to charge
Wires in parallel with each other

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tanabuse [OP]

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Re: my version of the big three
« Reply #3 on: Feb 23, 2019, 11:23:32 AM »
Photo 1

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tanabuse [OP]

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Re: my version of the big three
« Reply #4 on: Feb 23, 2019, 11:24:27 AM »
210-0406
Factory nippondenso 120 amp Jaguar alternator

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Snowtoy

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Re: my version of the big three
« Reply #5 on: Feb 23, 2019, 01:43:31 PM »
How does the lower mount of the Jag compare to the Toy?  Looking at the picks on Rockauto, if the plugs are wired the same, it could be a bolt-in replacement.


'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

tanabuse [OP]

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Re: my version of the big three
« Reply #6 on: Feb 23, 2019, 02:15:30 PM »
How does the lower mount of the Jag compare to the Toy?  Looking at the picks on Rockauto, if the plugs are wired the same, it could be a bolt-in replacement.



As far as I can tell the lower mount it's the same with as the factory alternator

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tanabuse [OP]

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Re: my version of the big three
« Reply #7 on: Feb 23, 2019, 02:16:34 PM »
How does the lower mount of the Jag compare to the Toy?  Looking at the picks on Rockauto, if the plugs are wired the same, it could be a bolt-in replacement.



Lower Mount is the exact same width as the factory Toyota 22re fuel injected internally regulated alternator

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Snowtoy

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Re: my version of the big three
« Reply #8 on: Feb 23, 2019, 02:36:36 PM »
Great, that just leaves the wiring of the plug, which if it isn't wired the same would be an easy fix.  Looks like I Will have to grab one next trip to the wrecking yards.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

tanabuse [OP]

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Re: my version of the big three
« Reply #9 on: Feb 23, 2019, 02:48:42 PM »
Great, that just leaves the wiring of the plug, which if it isn't wired the same would be an easy fix.  Looks like I Will have to grab one next trip to the wrecking yards.
I got mine out of a 94 Jaguar Vanden plas with a 4 liter motor the alternator was on the driver side bottom side of the block and the hood open from the bottom of the windshield I had to remove the intake box the smog pump and then I have good access to the alternator

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tanabuse [OP]

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Re: my version of the big three
« Reply #10 on: Feb 23, 2019, 02:51:36 PM »
Great, that just leaves the wiring of the plug, which if it isn't wired the same would be an easy fix.  Looks like I Will have to grab one next trip to the wrecking yards.
The only thing you have to do is swap the  pulley from your Toyota alternator which is a 3/8 V groove belt and you need to have the hole board out at a machine shop to 17 mm they will put the alternator shaft on a micrometer and they'll have to do the math themselves but it comes out to 17 mm
The serpentine pulley has a raised section on it that comes off the factory Jag alternator you'll have to use the washer that comes off the Toyota alternator that's behind the V groove pulley that will also need to be reamed out to 17 millimeters

And last but not least I'm at this very last Point myself a small washer needs to be placed underneath the nut and between the actual pulley itself because the nut from the alternator will seat down all the way on the rotor shaft and it will allow the pulley to just spin


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