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Have you noticed and access crank case pressure? I have the same breather and a Oil Catch Can with a pcv and noticed I still had a lot of crank case pressure. Im Efi but not much difference there. I added a extra filter on top of my oil catch can and it helped. Im getting a lot of fuel into my oil and noticed the same leak you got out of the rear main seal. Once I fixed the excess crank case pressure the leak went away without having to change the gasket.Also btw a lot of guys will fight me on this. But ive used them both. I have not noticed a longevity difference between running OEM toyota rear main seal over ITM, Felpro, or Mahle. No I would not use Rock auto jump or ebay/amazon gaskets but im just saying. I watch my shop send out over 50-60 20r/22r/22re long blocks a year with Itm and felpro kits that never come back with a leak!Good looking motor brotha! Hope that annoying leak goes away. I cant stand them eaither!
Yeah mine is very fresh so it used to literally blow my off if i loosed it while running. If im not mistaken dancing around is too much. But now on a motor as new as yours. A catch can is ALWAYS a great idea to me. It saves your carb, intake, and valves from gross oil depositsSent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk
Your leak is not happening do to high crank case pressure. You are barking up the wrong tree.
I'm not there and I know nothing, so take everything I say with a grain of salt. That said I have trouble understanding how this can be a rear main seal leak, because there is no oil coming out of the drain hole on the bottom of the bell housing. Could it possibly be from the oil pan gasket?
It always could be. It's worth a shot to re-seal it. With the leak as slow as it is, I'm just gonna continue to drive tree truck to see if the leak progresses or gets worse. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
I agree with this. it's a new engine give it some time and see what happens. Your clutch should be fine unless the leak gets much worse. you have a big flywheel between the rear main seal and the clutch assembly. The speedy sleeve you used on the crank seal surface is a great idea and You used a Toyota seal. You have done everything correct in that area. ? You did put lube on the lip area of the seal when installed correct? this is a critical step.
Moving to Washington? What area?
Vancouver area. No emissions on 1990 and back! Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Might be gear oil coming out your trans input seal. If it drives you nuts pull the motor and see.
"pull the motor"....?? Is it easier to pull the motor to fix a transmission input shaft seal? Gnarls.
Well one or the other has to move . I determined for me pulling the motor is physically easier but takes more time, dropping the trans is faster but harder and with more swearing. Really comes down to which kind of torture you prefer.
300K pulled a 22re in a couple hours if i remember correctly.
He pulled his 22R in 30 minutes...
The Engine rebuild on the other hand. Well thats now moving into it's second year. 300K's engine " Me"Anyone know anything about E-brake installation? I hear it's very difficult? Asking for a friend.