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Super easy way to get adjustable cam gear very close to spec is put crank at tdc #1 cyl and the adjust gear so the indicator points at the alignment mark on the rocker tower. Its will get you super close
16 degrees? Dustributor in correct, or harmonic balancer spun so timing off?
Did you check your TPS when you had it off?
U really should jump that terminal for timing, lol
Does the cel work? Maybe knock sensor bunged up or the wiring to it. You didnt leave rags to prevent debris in the intake or exhaust on assembly causing a restriction?
Hey Jason... Crazy question.... and I'm sure you got it right, but have you double checked the firing order? 1-3-4-2? Do you have an O2 sensor on this engine? Have you disconnected the battery and let Mama ECU take a short nap? And, you have checked ALL vacuum hoses.Was anything done to the injectors?Gnarls.
I would argue the knock isn't really important in most applications, but the 02 is the single most critical sensor!
just to make sure, you said you are running a 93 22re. are you also using 93 injectors, sensors and a 93 ecu?
I'm no expert on anything but aren't the knock sensor and O2 sensor kinda important-ish to making a fuel injected engine run right? I've been told that a 22RE will not run well without a knock sensor
From what I believe the ECU does if the mama ECU does not detect the signals that she is expecting to get, she's not going to be happy and the question is what is her default position regarding Fuel and ignition timing to that engine when she does not get all of her sensor inputs.
How do you know FOR SURE that it is running overly rich? Backfiring and poping could be from running lean, and the fouled looking plugs could be from the rings not seated. I don't know the spec but if you say your fuel pressure is low, and you run a ported head, bigger cam, header a bit higher comp on the stock ECU it would be obvious to me that it is running in fact lean. You say you are throwing more fuel with the cam and ported head but you are in fact allowing more air, and with a primitive ECU to control air/fuel ratio, it has narrow parameters to adjust, even though MAF (mass air flow) equipped EFI is usually more forgiving of increased airflow. Have you checked for a vacuum leak with brake cleaner or similar fluid? Does the ecu throw a code? If you are indeed overly rich, the only sensors that I can think of that have a big impact on a/f ratios are, in that order, ECT (engine coolant temperature) and MAF. I donk't think a faulty o2 sensor or IAT (intake air temperature sensor) could make it run that bad. If it's not a sensor issue, it would have to be an injector stuck open (a different looking spark plug would give a clue), or the 4 injectors were damaged when cleaned or since the last time they ran.Once the fuel pressure issue is solved, if you are not interested and a tunable ECU like megasquirt or microsquirt, I would at least suggest an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to keep the a/f ratio around 12.5:1 at full throttle, and to fine tune the timing. A tunable ECU would however give the best results, bring out the full potential of your build, and give you the best fuel mileage.
With the ecu not getting a signal from the O2 sensor, the ecu will run the engine rich to prevent a lean condition.When you pulled the knock sensor, did you do anything to full the ecu into thinking the KS was still there?With you removing the KS and O2, and with just two vacuum lines, pretty much everything else, you should be running a stand-alone ecu.http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/fueltech50.html
Not having the O2 and knock are causing the problem. Quit chasing your tail.The ecu cannot time properly without the knock. It cannot control fuel without the O2.
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