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also, looks as if 22RE Performance (You know, that shop that builds some of the best R series engines in the world) sells anti seize and says "Recommended for any fastener that threads into aluminum (spark plugs, studs, bolts..etc). Also recommended on any fastener near coolant and for anything else you’d like to remove in the future (exhaust nuts, oxygen sensor nuts etc) that can rust or gall."Now he doesn't say anything about lug nuts, but he does say he uses it on spark plugs...and for the reason I stated. Steel threading into aluminum can turn into a crappy situation. a lil anti seize never hurt anyone.
As for the latest question of getting the lug studs in I’m going to have them pressed in since I don’t believe any of those parts are anything but steel (the hub, rotor and lugs studs) and since I have steel wheels for the moment I don’t think I need to worry about antisieze but I’ll apply some conservatively. I’m sure I could keep pounding them in but I know a place that might do it for free so I’ll just go there for the sake of expediency, and I don’t “technically” have a mini sledgehammer . BTW I believe they are stuck because they’re new and haven’t been worn down yet so after the intitial setting into the hub they should be fine after.Low Range Off Road is the video I’m following religiously and it has been a god send so I can’t recommend it enough. As a last side note, where does everyone stand on using thread locker blue in place of antisieze on the stud threads? Thread locker blue being the “light duty” version of thread locker.
no anti-seizeproperly torque the wheelsI have installed thousands of wheels with that method, and never had a problem
..running around with 2 or 3 lugs nuts ...
I run around with 2 nuts... and 3 nuts would not be any better!! Gnarls.
Baby nuts. M4-.7
H8PVMNT I love your posts! CB
Hey Jimbo,Since lug nuts were first used on wheels, there have been a ga-zillion billion (just a wild guess) lug nuts installed that way "and never had a problem"!!! Gnarls.
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