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Hey Everyone !I've been digging into my '83 Toyota Pickup 4x4 front axle with a rebuild kit and the driver side lug nuts won't come off!! I've tried PB Blaster, WD-40, using a small impact wrench, applying pressure to the brake and using a breaker bar with an extension (all of that in that order) and so far I've gotten one off and in that one it looks like someone started to shave the inside of it.So it looks like they have been over torqued or cross threaded and are now stuck on. I've seen a lot of answers to this problem but it seems like most are dangerous "redneck solutions" which aren't wrong but I'm planning to use those as a last resort. What I'm hoping for in this new thread is any ideas to get them off while limiting damage, I already have a full set of replacement lug bolts so I'll break 'em if I have to.I plan to use an air impact driver and heat them up with a blow torch but any other suggestions would be helpful
that video explains nothing. He's claiming if you're using anti seize, you're lubricating the stud thus invalidating the "dry torque rating" of the usual 95-100 lb-ft. As LO said, reduce torque accordingly. That being said, I live in Arizona and we don't salt our roads because it doesn't snow. So I just torque them dry and go. About spark plugs, something makes me shudder inside with the steel plug and aluminum head
No, it doesn't explain why you should NOT use anti seize...
Like your "I don't air down my tires" argument
was not the argument, was never the argument, nice try. as for anti seize, his own video description reads "In this video I show you the danger of using anti-seize on your lug nuts (with a dry torque rating)". That's all there is to it. No more, no less.
"Three things cannot be long hidden: the sun, the moon, and the truth." ~ Buddha300k... look for the truth in the video. Gnarls.
Ironic you would use that quote, as it's not even a real quotation. In today's world, that's called FAKE NEWS!
watch LROR's video series on rebuilding a front axle on YouTube. pound them in.CB
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