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Just checking, I am supposed to plug the vacuum advance ports on the distributor as I set base timing to 0* then remove and add the vacuum lines and it should jump to around 5-7*?
Hey colezombie,Where ever you end up with the ignition timing, you might consider test driving your vehicle and making sure it’s not pinging. I don’t think that engine has a knock sensor.On my 22R I always fine tuned my ignition timing by ear. My 22R was way more sensitive to ignition timing change than my 22RE’s.What octane are you burning? And, did 22RE Performance recommend any octane rating? Did they tell you what the compression ratio is for your engine?Just curious.Gnarls.
They didn't specify octane rating and I'm sure the gas in the tank is pretty old.Forgive me if this is a dumb question but, when hooking up the timing light, I turn the truck on and check timing it should be idling at 0* and then I plug the vacuum hoses and it should stay at 0*?? I was under the impression that once I plug the vacuum hoses back into the carb/intake, the timing would jump forward 5-7*.
Yesterday I stabbed a distributor into a 22RE.I removed the valve cover, turned the crank until my arrow and special link lined up @ 5° BTDC, stabbed the dizzy to #1, checked the valve lash with my fingers instead of a feeler gauge because I know when they are too tight or too loose and they were all good from the engine rebuild, put the cover back on, hooked up my timing light and fired the truck. It ran immediately and with a slight adjustment of the dizzy, she was running smooth as a baby's azz.Today the owner, a neighbor of mine is ordering an exhaust gasket set and a new valve cover gasket because the guys that did the engine rebuild reused all the old gaskets and neglected to hook up the ignition ground along with ripping the positive side out of the dizzy breaking and ruining his dizzy, had to buy a new one for his 1990.Anyway, the images above are how I got the timing set so all I can say is thank you for posting it, I do not have an FSM and you saved my ass.
Could I be 180* out? I was told that maybe I was TDC but at the wrong compression. I took the number one spark plug out and held my finger in there as I spun the motor and waited until I felt pressure pushing outward on my finger and assumed I was correct but maybe I'm not?
Could I be 180* out?
The engine will not run if you have accidentally stuck in the disty when number 1 cylinder is on exhaust stroke instead of TDC with number on cylinder firing.Gnarls.
It does start up fine and run fine from what I can tell, but it doesn’t want to turn off with the key now??It did earlier and after a drive it doesn’t. The timing light shows the timing is the same though.
I don’t I understand why you would use a “special link”?? What do you mean? Are you using a bright link on the timing chain? The bright links should only be used when first installing a timing chain kit. After the engine rotates, the links have nothing to do with alignment.When installing the disty, I always make sure the number one cylinder is firing (rockers are loose on number 1), harmonic balancer mark is 0 at timing tab, and number 1 piston is TDC. Then, install the disty so the rotor contact is pointing directly at number 1 contact on the cap.Gnarls.
You can buy them from LCEngineeringhttps://www.lceperformance.com/Distributor-Vacuum-Advance-Unit-22R-p/1081123.htmOr, pry open the folded over edge and reseal the baffle yourself if it is still intact.
.... I now believe that maybe the vacuum advance is defective.
What usually fails is the baffle, the oem rubber degrades over time and prevents the chambers from sealing. Once your remove the rest of the rubber coating, if the material used is still good, a couple of light layers of automotive grade silicon on each side, and the baffle will work just fine.
My point is simply that to take apart that unit and kludge it back together is potentially wasting time and then relying on "silicon" to fix it. On a newly rebuild 22R, the vacuum advance is important for around town driving and advancing ignition timing when there is a vacuum - usually at lower RPMs. That disty has mechanical advance as well. His signature indicates it's an "expedition truck" - even more important to have a highly reliable engine.
Is it worth saving $60 to risk having the ignition timing off?
Well aware of what a new engine needs, did this fix with an newly rebuilt '84 22re, and it worked well, the module is a simple mechanical device, and operates under a few pounds of vacuum. As for the silicone lasting, the one in my '86 22r is going on 4yrs now without issue, not sure about the others, as those were restored for sale. For $5 worth of silicone, yes, it isn't a high tech part.
Yeah.. .I'm definitely a fan of the frugal DIY option. I did this back around 1999 when my 85 ignitor died. The one from Toyota was like $400. I got the hot tip from Benjamin with a photo on how to build one with a GM ignitor. The part from Autozone was around $6.00 and it took me about 1 hour to solder it in... and it WORKED!!As I've gone through this rebuild and restore, I'm getting less and less excited about me doing the "fix it" option and more into the "buy a new one" solution. Frugal and Fubar for me have been way too close lately. Gnarls.
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