Topic: 1995 toyota 22re rebuild

[Azhunter]

  Okay got the engine rebuilt (22re) a little here and there. Fired right up ran it for a few minutes to find a temporary oil pressure line leak. Got that fixed fired it up and slowly reved the engine up to 1800rpm to break in the Melling 27101 cam. After I shut it down and checked other things out and fired it back up it wont just rev up to 1500 or whatever it has a bad hesitation from the bottom until about 1200-1300 then it will rev up. I thought maybe when I was cleaning everything of oil during the rebuild that when I cleaned the distributor out and loosed the pickup coil that I got it out of adjustment. The cel is on now and it gives me codes of #12, #24, #31, #41. Any help would be just awesome! Thanks in advance

[Snowtoy]

You can find what the codes can mean here
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/#Late22RE
https://www.troublecodes.net/toyota/



Might recheck timing.

[Azhunter [OP]]

Thanks man i'll check it out.

[Azhunter [OP]]

Okay pickup coil was bad so instead of replacing it for $80 I bought a new distributor and now I'm not throwing codes but it still wont rev up right. Also the cam spec sheet is saying to lash the valves at 12 and 12. Sounds a little loose doesn't it?

[emsvitil]

Stock cam is .008 I / .012 E warm. 

[Azhunter [OP]]

I know that's why I was saying it sounds a little loose on the intake. Letting it sit and idle till its warm and then taking the rpms up to about 2500  it rattles a little

[Gnarly4X]

I know that's why I was saying it sounds a little loose on the intake. Letting it sit and idle till its warm and then taking the rpms up to about 2500  it rattles a little

The Melling 27101 is almost identical to the Crane 704-0010 profile - except for the VL spec of 12/12.  The Crane cam is 8/10.  I could not find the Centerline Degrees for the Melling cam.  The Melling valve lash appears to be the largest gap for most 22 cams that I've seen.  I would call Melling and ask them WHY the valve lash spec and ask them what the centerline degrees are for the intake and exhaust.  If the Melling spec is 12/12, that's what I'd adjust the lash at.  NOW.. with that said, I don't like excessive rocker tick, so I'd probably look at a different cam.

With the larger valve lash, I would suspect the engine will have some of that dreaded rocker tick.  When you tighten the valve lash it makes the cam look "bigger", so on an engine dyno you would expect to see more power in the upper RPM range, typically losing a little low end torque.

That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.

Gnarls.

[Azhunter [OP]]

Well replaced the TPS for the same results Checked the timing on the timing chain, checked the VAF, and no better. I'm calling Melling in the morning and find out about the VL. Then adjust that to their spec if no change off to my buddies shop it will go! Then hopefully he can figure it out then I can figure out why the hell the clutch shudders when taking off and backing up Ill be glad when I get this part of the project done then I can do the brakes and the cv axles.

[Gnarly4X]

Well replaced the TPS for the same results

Hey A,

I sense your frustration.

Your posts read like you are resurrecting a 23 year old vehicle either neglected or worn out.

Without knowing what exactly has been done to it and what condition it’s in, it’s very hard to diagnose and fix problems on a forum.

What was done to the engine during your rebuild?  What condition was the engine before starting the rebuild?

Although by today’s engine technology these engines would be considered a relatively simple ECU-based fuel injection engine, the 22RE ECU and sensors are picky about their specs and functions.

There are a list of things that can cause your engine issues, but throwing parts at it can get crazy expensive, time consuming, and really frustrating.  Without a 22RE mechanic checking out the engine or being a knowledgeable DIYer, or being very familiar with the Toyota service manual you might consider getting it over to your buddy with a shop.

Please let us know what you find out.

Gnarls.

[H8PVMNT]

Do you think the timing chain could be off a tooth or two?  If it can't rev it could be cam timing off.

[Azhunter [OP]]

Ive checked it a couple of times. Turns out I have a flat spot on the TPS and my VAF has corrosion in it from someone popping it open to try to adjust it. Hope to have time to work on it this weekend.

[Azhunter [OP]]

Well I sent the throttle body to Jim at 22re Performance he got the tps set to spec. I put on a virgin VAF and fired it up and what do you know....same problem. Timing sits right at 5* when pinned and right on 12* when unpinned. The idle is set right at 950 if I set it at 750 it wants to die when I pin it. When I drive it, it runs fine after you get rolling. When you start to come to a stop it dies and you have to restart it. 

[Azhunter [OP]]

Oh it will rev up just not a fast rev off idle, if you rev it fast off idle it bogs down if you go slow it will rev up just fine.

[Azhunter [OP]]

Okay played with it some more today, (the truck) with it idling at 950rpm if I step on the brake peddle it dies. I can plug the vacuum port  for the brake booster and step on the brake and nothing happens. If I rev it up with it still plugged I still have the bog problem. Just trying to put as much info as possible out there for ideas. 

[Mudder]

Try replacing the check valve for the brake booster. It sounds like it's either put it backwards or has failed.

[Azhunter [OP]]

Okay I put a fuel pressure tester on the cold start injector and fired it up. I have 36/37psi when I rev it up, it jumps to 48-50psi. I checked the pressure regulator and when I pull the vacuum line of it jumps up to 48psi so the regulator test good. Does it make sense that when I rev it up the pressure rises instantly? I think I'm getting close but I just don't want to dump money to replace something that isn't bad. Last night I put a vacuum gauge on it and it sets solid at 20.5" of vacuum, so that tells me there isn't a vacuum leak.

[emsvitil]

When you rev it, you momentarily lose vacuum and fuel pressure will rise.
 
20" ~ 10psi

[Azhunter [OP]]

Replaced the fuel pump and strainer and filter today...same thing. It wont rev up off idle fast, if you slowly rev it its fine.

[EASYRYDERDANGER]

I've been monitoring this thread a little and I'm still thinking to myself, what exactly is the symptom? From what I gather, the engine runs well, it runs well under light/normal acceleration, but doesn't seem to accelerate fast?  I would consider that a lack of power? fuel, air flow and hot spark is typically where I start.  Sounds like u have fuel, u know u have spark, but is it "hot". I would hope your intake doesn't have a restriction in it, like a rag...  Or you could have a plugged exhaust, most common is burned up converter.  Just some ideas, but like I mentioned I'm not sure of true symptom...  Internet can be hard place to explain things sometimes

[Azhunter [OP]]

I've been monitoring this thread a little and I'm still thinking to myself, what exactly is the symptom? From what I gather, the engine runs well, it runs well under light/normal acceleration, but doesn't seem to accelerate fast?  I would consider that a lack of power? fuel, air flow and hot spark is typically where I start.  Sounds like u have fuel, u know u have spark, but is it "hot". I would hope your intake doesn't have a restriction in it, like a rag...  Or you could have a plugged exhaust, most common is burned up converter.  Just some ideas, but like I mentioned I'm not sure of true symptom...  Internet can be hard place to explain things sometimes

Thanks for the reply. It idles fine in the driveway. If you try to rev it sitting in the driveway it bogs bad. if you rev it slowly it will rev up. I have disconnected the exhaust from the manifold, changed coils and ICM, changed the VAF, new distributor with pickup coil, new plugs and wires, new cap and rotor, all new fuel tank fuel pump, fuel filter, and  the throttle body was sent to 22re and checked out to see if the TPS was bad and its fine. Timing sits right at 5* when pinned and 12* unpinned. Vacuum sits at a steady 20.5" at idle and when revved up it drops to 0" then backup. At this point any ideas I am more than happy to try. Thanks again.

[emsvitil]

Take the gas cap off and see what happens (I'm thinking a venting problem after a problem with dirt clogging the vent hole in my lawn mowers gas cap yesterday (didn't run right until I took off cap))

[EASYRYDERDANGER]

I like liveoaks idea.  As some random off the wall the things to check, maybe check the knock sensor and/or its wiring near the oil filter.  After I had a 22re rebuild I plugged in the wrong connector to it, for some reason there was more than one. Granted I had a check engine light pointing to the knock sensor, the engine ran ok but had no sack and acted just like plugged exhaust, once I plugged the correct knock sensor wiring in it ran just fine.