Author Topic: Lucas oil Stabilizer  (Read 2002 times)

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Osage1978

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Lucas oil Stabilizer
« on: Feb 06, 2018, 05:20:58 PM »
Looking for opinions on it or experience in the 22r engine. I've been pleased with it in large v8 engines but wonder about it in the smaller type engines after a bad pickup screen clogging experience with a gm 2.2 4cylinder.
John 5:24

Slabzilla

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #1 on: Feb 06, 2018, 05:56:38 PM »
I've used it for years in my Yotas, no problems, so far.  Just my opinion, but my engines all last.   :twocents:   I use it in the trans the t-case and diffs, just sayin'.
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blackdiamond

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #2 on: Feb 06, 2018, 07:49:16 PM »
Lucas oil stabilizer is pretty much just pure petroleum which shouldn't be a necessary add to a quality motor oil.  Do your oil research on Bob is the Oil Guy Forum (BITOG).  As with any forum there's lot of opinions, but you can eventually figure out who has knowledge and who has opinions.  My assessment for Lucas oil stabilizer is that it really serves no purpose when mixed in a quality oil and will simply thicken up the mix which can quiet noise, but not necessarily for the right reasons.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #3 on: Feb 07, 2018, 03:24:25 AM »
With today’s engine technology and the high quality crankcase and gear lubricants available, the use of a Lucas additive to reduce engine component or transmission wear may be difficult to measure.  Lucas is a great marketing company.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

H8PVMNT

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #4 on: Feb 07, 2018, 11:04:41 AM »
I like their gear oil stuff but I'm not sure about their engine oil additives.  I tried it once and a buddy had the same in his higher miles 22r and we both got some weird light colored oil smoke in our exhaust and the same funny smell.  I would just use good conventional oil at this point on a well used engine.
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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #5 on: Feb 07, 2018, 12:35:05 PM »
Thanks Blackdiamond, Like I've said, I've had no probs with it, so it's just my opinion and that's all.  If you have good luck with it , go for it , if not, don't.  A well maintained engine with regular oil changes and adjustments are the best ways to keep that engine alive longer.  If you have an older engine and your trying to keep it alive longer all the additives in the world may not do the trick and you may just need to bite the bullet and make it new again.   :twocents:
'85 Xtra-cab, 4.5" Downey Off-Road lift, 12-15 KM2's on American Racing Baja's, Marlin's-4.88's & 4.7's, Downey Off-Road CAI, Marlin rear bumper & sliders

Osage1978 [OP]

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #6 on: Feb 07, 2018, 12:37:16 PM »
I went ahead and put a small amount in the engine earlier and will add some to the L45 transmission which is running on borrowed time with some worn bearings and is a little growly between 1st & 3rd but it's driven daily only 3 miles. Thanks for your input guys & I welcome any other input good or bad from folks who've used it.

John 5:24

Osage1978 [OP]

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #7 on: Feb 07, 2018, 03:16:18 PM »
I'll give a quick update on my own experience that's fresh. After adding the Lucas earlier I went for a test drive here locally and the engine is noticeably quieter than before. I also added some to my wife's 2013 Hyundai which has always had a somewhat noisy engine, it to is noticeably quieter  I can't speak to the transmission in my Toyota because I can't get it in the fill hole without some rubber tubing attached to the bottle because of obstructions. If it hushes the transmission any at all I'll be thrilled about it. I'm looking at using Schaeffers motor oil on my next change, I hear great things about it. I've always used Rotella or Pennzoil without complaints but like most people I'm always looking for a better product. I didn't notice any strange smells or smoke and I added some seafoam to the gas tanks of both as well.
« Last Edit: Feb 07, 2018, 04:04:28 PM by Osage1978 »
John 5:24

Gillesdetrail

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #8 on: Feb 07, 2018, 03:26:14 PM »
I have used it in worn engines including 22r, didn't notice a difference in oil consumption or noise, just as bad as before. Even whole bottles on a fresh oil change. Maybe those engines were too far gone anyways. Some comments I remember from bobistheoilguy.com forum mention it is nothing more than an oil thickener which can mess with the balance of additives already present in your oil. For the price I suggest you try it yourself and see if it is worth it for you. 

Osage1978 [OP]

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #9 on: Feb 07, 2018, 04:00:30 PM »
I think in my personal application's it made both engines quieter, however it could be simply the placebo effect from expecting it to work. I've worked in the oilfield most of life, the last 15 years in oilfield production chemicals. The product is widely used by most of the service companies in my area in their fleet of vehicles so I'm probably biased before hand giving it a positive view before it actually proves itself. But the piece of mind was worth the cost of it if nothing else. But I honestly think it made both engines quieter, they may throw a rod tomorrow, time will tell.
John 5:24

blackdiamond

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #10 on: Feb 07, 2018, 05:02:58 PM »
It should make them quieter because it’s thicker. Not necessarily the same effect as better lubrication.

Motor oil and transmission oil are not at all the same so any single additive that is supposed help both applications makes me skeptical.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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jmac80

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #11 on: Feb 14, 2018, 01:10:58 PM »
save you money for beer, buy castrol
1980 long bed; 20R; L52; 3" OME; 30-spline Marfields; Marlin high steer; PS; AC

Gnarly4X

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #12 on: Feb 14, 2018, 01:21:47 PM »
If you want to "quiet" the noise try STP Oil Treatment.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

blackdiamond

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #13 on: Feb 14, 2018, 07:21:46 PM »
 :pokinit: :pokinit: :pokinit: :pokinit:
If you want to "quiet" the noise try STP Oil Treatment.

Gnarls.

The original snake oil.  :bolt:
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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Osage1978 [OP]

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #14 on: Feb 15, 2018, 05:09:19 PM »
It's definitely quieted both engines and I have had not issues whatsoever. I'm looking at other products for both vehicles next oil changes. BestLine , TVT Green are looking like good products but in the Toyota I'm probably switching to a race oil with more zddp and running a full synthetic like Pennzoil platinum in the wife's Hyundai.

A local mechanic here once told me he's seen stp laying in the bottom of several oil pans from one ranches feed trucks, his thoughts were that once it settled & cooled it separated and never got picked back up into the pickup tube. I've not seen that with Lucas and checking both vehicles here at home today it was apparent on the dipstick that the Lucas had at least blended with the oil in each.
John 5:24

Gnarly4X

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #15 on: Feb 15, 2018, 05:36:12 PM »
:pokinit: :pokinit: :pokinit: :pokinit:
The original snake oil.  :bolt:

I have used STP Oil Treatment for over 50 years, off and on, in almost every one of my older vehicles.  I NEVER experienced any problems or issues.  I used it in both my Toy trucks every time I went to dunes for a little bit more protection because I was 4000 and 5000 RPMs most of time while running the dunes.

That's just my experience, everyone's experience may be different.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

EASYRYDERDANGER

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #16 on: Feb 15, 2018, 07:39:06 PM »
I put Lucas Zinc plus in my engine oil to help with cam/rockers.  I run cheap low grade 10/40 and put a 1/2 bottle in each time oil change every 3000 miles.  If you change oil frequently you dont have to worry about it "breaking down" or getting poluted.  Dont use zinc if you still have a catalytic converter...  Reason I use cheaper low grade oil is that newer styles of oil will actually break down the zinc content and it dilutes it. 

blackdiamond

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #17 on: Feb 15, 2018, 08:14:05 PM »
I have used STP Oil Treatment for over 50 years, off and on, in almost every one of my older vehicles.  I NEVER experienced any problems or issues.  I used it in both my Toy trucks every time I went to dunes for a little bit more protection because I was 4000 and 5000 RPMs most of time while running the dunes.

That's just my experience, everyone's experience may be different.

Gnarls.

Not harming the engine isn't the issue, it's if it's doing anything to help.  I'd bet you would have had the exact same experience without it.

This is how most people judge motor oil additives.  The label says it does "x" and I never had an issue running it so it must be doing what it says.

Lucas oil stabilizer is just pure petrolium which means is essentially a single grade conventional base oil without any additives which doesn't sound much like an additive.  It just thickening up your oil and "watering" it down.  Sure it often quiets things, but so would any 50wt motor oil.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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Gnarly4X

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #18 on: Feb 16, 2018, 02:16:51 AM »
Not harming the engine isn't the issue, it's if it's doing anything to help.  I'd bet you would have had the exact same experience without it.

This is how most people judge motor oil additives.  The label says it does "x" and I never had an issue running it so it must be doing what it says.

Lucas oil stabilizer is just pure petrolium which means is essentially a single grade conventional base oil without any additives which doesn't sound much like an additive.  It just thickening up your oil and "watering" it down.  Sure it often quiets things, but so would any 50wt motor oil.

Not harming the engine IS the issue!!  :yikes:

The oil debate will rage on forever.  :biggthumpup:

How most people judge oil or oil additives ranges from buying a "label" off the shelf at Autozone to Blackstone UOA reports, to anecdotal opinions.  It doesn’t matter – most oil debates come down to whatever makes you feel good.  :D

For the dune trips, I added STP to my regular 10-40 because it was simple… just added a ½ can.  It was for my “feel good” thing.  STP Oil Treatment has 2 of the most effective oil additive chemicals used in oil formulations… calcium long-chain alkylphenate sulfide and zddp, so I just went with the industry oil lubrication PhDs and my experience and sucked up the “marketing hype” from STP.  :yesnod:

Yes, just using Castrol 20-50 would have probably provided the same protection, but I only wanted the extra protection for a 4-day trip to the dunes.  I always did an oil and filter, and air filter change after a trip the dunes…. Lots of tetravalent metalloid dust  :gap:

If that makes it “snake oil”, it’s the best $2-buck snake oil I have ever used.  :dunno:

Gnarls  :blah:



« Last Edit: Feb 16, 2018, 02:28:51 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

H8PVMNT

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #19 on: Feb 16, 2018, 09:27:05 AM »
If we are going to get all oil discussion-ee...  I am back on the fence on synthetic.  I used it last winter in my 22r (Mobil 1 0W-40).  It sure made the cold starts easier, but I have a hunch it may have been too thin.  After 9 or 10 months on it my rings went.  Could have been my journey into the dark art of carb tuning, the engine autopsy will reveal it if it was.

Anyways I think I am going to go back to conventional with no additives after break in.  Fancy oil stuff just doesn't seem to work out for me.
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blackdiamond

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #20 on: Feb 16, 2018, 10:03:32 AM »
If we are going to get all oil discussion-ee...  I am back on the fence on synthetic.  I used it last winter in my 22r (Mobil 1 0W-40).  It sure made the cold starts easier, but I have a hunch it may have been too thin.  After 9 or 10 months on it my rings went.  Could have been my journey into the dark art of carb tuning, the engine autopsy will reveal it if it was.

Anyways I think I am going to go back to conventional with no additives after break in.  Fancy oil stuff just doesn't seem to work out for me.

A 40wt oil has to meet a viscosity spec that is the same for synthetics and conventional oils.  The 0w-40 is thicker when “cold” at startup than it is at operating temperature so the 0w vs. 10w doesn’t make any difference other than the 0w is closer to the operating temperature viscosity at startup which is good.  Synthetics have natural detergent properties so can clean out gunk in/around gaskets and expose leaks but they don’t cause them. My 85 had a leak with synthetics that was resolved by going back to conventional oil.  It’s possible that the increased “slipperyness” of synthetics might allow it to get past the rings easier.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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H8PVMNT

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #21 on: Feb 16, 2018, 10:12:01 AM »
I think switching to synthetic mid steam is maybe dumb.  I have a theory that rings take a set a certain way with conventional vs. synthetic, different weights etc.  Kind of like a knife on a stone with different lubes will act different on the steel.  So maybe if you break in on conventional, synthetic, or with a certain additive, run it, but don't switch around too much after you get things broken in.

No scientific basis for this but this is just the feeling I get over the years and kind of seeing which engines I get more out of.
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blackdiamond

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #22 on: Feb 16, 2018, 03:14:39 PM »
I think switching to synthetic mid steam is maybe dumb.  I have a theory that rings take a set a certain way with conventional vs. synthetic, different weights etc.  Kind of like a knife on a stone with different lubes will act different on the steel.  So maybe if you break in on conventional, synthetic, or with a certain additive, run it, but don't switch around too much after you get things broken in.

No scientific basis for this but this is just the feeling I get over the years and kind of seeing which engines I get more out of.

Most people recommend against breaking in an engine with synthetic oil (it’s only ok for new cars, I guess) but they should be interchangeable. But on a worn engine it’s very possible that the synthetics could get past things conventional wouldn’t but that doesn’t mean that you’re in for it. Conventional oils protected the 2wd trucks that were the stars of longivety forever.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

Gnarly4X

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Re: Lucas oil Stabilizer
« Reply #23 on: Feb 16, 2018, 07:00:49 PM »
If we are going to get all oil discussion-ee...  I am back on the fence on synthetic.  I used it last winter in my 22r (Mobil 1 0W-40).  It sure made the cold starts easier, but I have a hunch it may have been too thin.  After 9 or 10 months on it my rings went.  Could have been my journey into the dark art of carb tuning, the engine autopsy will reveal it if it was.

Anyways I think I am going to go back to conventional with no additives after break in.  Fancy oil stuff just doesn't seem to work out for me.

H,

I don’t think your 0-40 oil was too thin and I don’t think it was the cause of your bad compression issue.

With your climate and very cold winter temps, synthetic is WAY better for cold starts.  I’d be running synthetic is ALL oil and gear lube.

I wonder if you can actually determine what caused your engine failure at such a low mileage?

I have switched from dino to synthetic many times and it’s not going to cause any adverse affects.

After about 200 miles on my engine break-in with Royal Purple break-in oil, I switched to Wal*Mart 10-30 dino.  I’ll probably run this another 1,000 miles and change it.  I’ll run another 3,000 to get up 5,000 total miles on the engine and change it again with 10-40 dino. I’ll run it up another 3.000 miles to about 8,000 miles total and see what it looks like, and I’ll probably send a sample to BlackStone Labs for a UOA report.

From my limited experience and my research, I believe the machine work – cylinder bore, final hone RA and cross-hatch prep, pistons and rings are critical for selecting the right parts for the rebuild application.  THEN a proper break-in procedure is a must.  After a good break-in, it's the proper oil viscosity selection for the climate or vehicle use.  BUT… I am not an engine builder.
 
Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

 
 
 
 
 

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