Author Topic: Irritating clutch pedal issue  (Read 968 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.


  • Offline Dusty Trails
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 0
  • Posts: 6
  • Member since Nov '13
  • Crawling with Marlin
Irritating clutch pedal issue
« on: Nov 30, 2017, 01:46:37 AM »
I have a 1998 Tacoma V6 4WD, replaced clutch with marlin HD unit some time ago.
I later replaced clutch master cyl and slave cyl with OEM units (the orig master failed).

I have this nagging issue with a low cutch pedal when the truck has not been driven for a while.
I can correct it by pulling the pedal up with my foot.

After initial clutch master cyl install the problem was very noticeable every morning when I drove truck.
So I bled the clutch again. That helped a lot but now that it's gotten cold overnight and the problem is reoccurring but not as bad.

I'm guessing I did not do a good job bleeding (twice) and probably need to do it again?

P.S. I did adjust the pedal per the manual although the procedure seems a bit subjective as how to place the ruler.

« Last Edit: Nov 30, 2017, 01:58:36 AM by alexh »


  • Offline Crawler Guru
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 395
  • Posts: 637
  • Member since May '02
Re: Irritating clutch pedal issue
« Reply #1 on: Nov 30, 2017, 07:41:57 AM »
Make sure you also are bleeding the fittings at the master.
You may want to double check the condition of the master too.
Once you have it "pumped up" depress the pedal super slow and see if you can repeat the symptoms.  If so you have a bunk master.  :(
hold this. . .


  • Offline Dusty Trails
  • *
  • Turtle Points: -10
  • Posts: 4
  • Member since May '17
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: Irritating clutch pedal issue
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2018, 08:10:16 AM »
Toyota came out with a Technical Service Bulletin for this issue. It consists of a new Clutch, Pressure Plate, Clutch Fork Ball Stud, Slave Cylinder, Clutch Master Cylinder and all new Lines. There's multiple problems here. One is the old Fluid, it gets dirty/old and doesn't work well. Hence the Clutch Master and Line replacement. The other is the Slave Cylinder and Clutch Fork Pivot Stud. They are both slightly longer. This helps to push the pedal back up from the floor. What I wound up doing was replacing my Clutch and Pressure Plate with ones that are heavier duty. I also used a Sleeve on the Transmission Release Bearing Snout. The Snout is made of Aluminum just like the Transmission Case. Over time it gets grooves and becomes sticky/grabby. A Stainless Steel Sleeve helps allow the Release Bearing do it's job, release.


  • Offline Silver Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 5299
  • Male Posts: 3,325
  • Member since May '07
    • emsvitil's album
    • Buy me a soda
Re: Irritating clutch pedal issue
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2018, 04:43:32 PM »
I put a washer under the fork pivot bolt to compensate for any wear after a clutch replacement (surfacing flywheel).   Cheap way to make it longer.

It's also possible that the bypass port in master isn't becoming uncovered when clutch is sitting.  Fluid gets cold and sucks in the piston.....
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B


  • Offline Dusty Trails
  • *
  • Turtle Points: -10
  • Posts: 4
  • Member since May '17
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: Irritating clutch pedal issue
« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2018, 06:29:33 AM »
Also, the Clutch return spring inside the Clutch Master could be worn out. Causing a slow or no return of the Clutch Pedal. My Clutch is very slow to engage when the Fluid is cold. I'm definitely going to be replacing my Clutch Master soon. Honestly, there's so many things that could go wrong in the Clutch Hydraulic System. You just have to start somewhere.


Related Topics

10 Replies
Last post Mar 11, 2003, 06:27:11 AM
by vikingsven
5 Replies
Last post Jan 20, 2006, 08:17:55 AM
by trax28to
2 Replies
Last post Oct 13, 2012, 10:44:27 AM
by Cheesemaker
10 Replies
Last post Sep 10, 2013, 05:27:26 PM
1 Replies
Last post Sep 06, 2017, 01:22:08 PM
by THK Matt