My hybrid experiment in the 4runner started blowing exhaust and large quantities of oil (like all the oil) out the PCV breather this weekend.  This indicated to me that it may not be healthy any more  .

I had been collecting bits for my "pinky" project, another tentative hybrid with more coolness, but for now we need the 4Runner to be going so I will have to shelf that one for another season of two. Nice thing is I have had no luck getting another early 22r block, so I can use that one for pinky after we do the autopsy.

Why a 20r you ask?  Well I have a nice, original 20r block laying here and I have always been pretty impressed with the bone stock, under-carbed 20r in my '80 pickup, so I thought it would be fun to do another experiment.

I could bore it out to 22r size, but there seems to be a 50/50 chance you will just wreck the block doing that, so I am erring on the safe side.

The 20r is lower compression, like 8.4/1 stock, so it eats rougher.  We have lousy gas here so that isn't bad.  My 20r pickup runs well off of 85 octane, varnish, saw gas, eth heavy winter gas, pretty much anything.  Much less finicky than my 22r, which I really have to tune to run off even 87.

My racer buddy Dane took one look at the early dog dish 22r pistons and almost winced.  "Those pistons are terrible!"  Apparently the raised dog dish lends itself well to a clean burn in a swirly combustion chamber but leaves a bit to be desired for power building efficiency and flow.  20r has stock flat tops.

The 20r/22r hybrid is definitely an improvement over the 22r, I can vouch for that.  However, is the improvement in drivability more the head design or more the slight bump in compression, or is it just a magic combination?

Also we tend to really dial in our hybrids, nice carbs, cams, headers, really good tune, etc.  So are we just really making improvements on an all ready good 20r or is the 22r bottom end the important part of the equation?   I plan to find out!   

As an added bonus I will be keeping a log of time on this engine, so we can provide one answer about "how long does it take to build a Toyota 4 banger.  I realize we all work at different speeds, but I am going to just put it out there as a middle speed example of how long it takes.

I predict loosing some power, but I will bet a double espresso that it's still better than my stock 22r.  I realize our only dyno is my tuning/test hill and seat of the pants impressions but I have enough seat time with the stock 22r and the Hybrid that I think I can be pretty objective about this.



So I did a quick inventory of what I have and it looks pretty good.

To start a nice, un-molested 20r block out of a 1980 2WD parts truck.  Almost doesn't even need to be bored except one of the cylinders was pitted from the intake being off for years and years.

Then I have the crank from the same engine, which was so nice all I had to do was polish it with WD40, emery cloth and a shoe lace. Right on spec with no taper!

I am going to keep a running total of actual cash invested.  I have done a lot of trading and salvaging for these parts so this will be fun.  Not saying this is the typical engine scenario but it can be done cheaply over time. I really try to save stuff, trade every chance I get and snag every deal I can.  I want to see how it paid off.

So far about $10 of WD40, shoe laces and emery cloth invested in these parts.

Then I have this 282 camshaft and 22re performance 75 lb valve springs.   

I have a set of valve guides and a new set of valves I had around for experimenting with DIY valve guide installing. 

Still on the fence about this cam in the 4Runner but it is here and paid for...

Cam was traded for a few stock TEQ cam cores and some rockers I had laying around, shipping those was about $17.  Valves, guides and seals were $54, if I remember correctly.  So total now comes to $170.95.

I have a couple tubes of Toyota "Black Death" from bestgen...

$5 a tube, 2 tubes, I think he took $3 to ship so another $13 for a grand total of $205.95 so far.

I have done a bunch of parting out, vehicle stripping, cleaning and messing around with these parts so far.  To be fair let's say I have 8 hours into it so far for pulling engines, cleaning up and disassembly.  I think that's pretty typical of yanking out an engine, sourcing and scrounging other needed parts etc. to get to this point of a build.

I think it's only fair to include this kind of stuff on my typical engine build labor timeframe since there is more to it than just assembly of clean and new parts.

Jim says the 282 cam is meant for a lighter truck so I will save it for the 2WD next summer.  Probably going to use a stock profile cam since it is so good in the 20r head (according to Gnarly's spread sheets, thanks man!  ) and it will make a better comparison of 20r/22r hybrid I have now vs. plain 20r.  The only real change would be the bore and piston design.

Just by the way -- it's the law around here that you need a house thread in every engine build thread you start. Between this and Pinky, you owe us two sub-threads about houses.....

Well I am going to build a shop from old telephone poles and left over roofing pretty soon would that do?

Probably... Especially if you run the shop on compressed air from an old 22R turned into a compressor and powered by another old 22R. I've never tried this but it should work in theory to use that one with a cracked block and just avoid the cylinder that is cracked.

Just realized I probably shouldn't use that 22r head gasket because the bore is too big for the 20r block.  20r head gaskets are pretty limited as far as choices too.  Grrrg.

Found this: https://paradiseracing.com/shop/engine-components/cometic-toyota-20r-22r/

Not sure my surfaces will be that perfect though.  Might have to stay more typical on the HG and use whatever brand regular style with the copper spray.

Managed to drop off the block to the old guy's machine shop.  Hope this guy doesn't die because they seem to care and they have 30 years ago pricing. 

Only $13 a hole to bore, $25 to hot tank it and they refuse to do the deck unless it absolutely needs it because they don't want to mess up cam timing.  They also would not bore until I had my pistons so they can "get it perfect".

So looks like machine work on the block will be $77.  Running total at $308.87.

We had better add an hour for hauling to the machine shop, so we are at 10 hours now.

wow, that is 30 year ago pricing if I've ever heard it. I was looking at 45-50 dollars a hole and 100 to 150 to deck. hot tank prices were 40-60 per load, which is basically everything you need cleaned on a 4 cylinder.

depends on where you live and who is doing it.

Well I am going to build a shop from old telephone poles and left over roofing pretty soon would that do?

Hey now, that’s pretty much how stocker built his wood shed!  Kinda helped that he still worked for the phone company

Machinist called me this morning and they already have my block done.  That was slightly less than a 2 day turn around.  I won't even be able to pick it up until next payday but WOW that was fast. Between those guys and DNJ I think I could tear one down on a Monday and be done for the weekend if I didn't have to work a real job.

Total bill will be $140 instead of the $77 for $13 a hole + $25 hot tank.  Not sure what happened there I guess they maybe hit the deck.  Oh well they were nice, fast and still cheaper than the last time I had a block done so I am happy.

New total is at: $371.87

Now that I know my head is flat I can move on to attempt valve guide removal and replacement.  You want a 3/8 x16 tap.  Use oil on it so it's not sticky and get it in as far as you can go.  If you only go a little ways the top of the guide will snap off leaving you less to grab when you put your home brew puller in it.  Don't ask my how I know   .

Will your valve guide driving tool fit the 20R guides? If not, I might be able to find the time to make one that will

The 22r and 20r guides are the same. 

I have to find my air hammer this weekend then I can finish!

Even though this is a quickie engine, I will keep trying to post useful tech...

The valve guides on this head have a ton of carbon on the exhaust side and they seemed tighter than the head I was experimenting on to remove valve guides with the home made tool:  http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=102394.0.  I ended up replacing the washer on my tool with an old valve spring keeper, because it won't deform and it has a little recess that keeps the bit of tubing centered. 

One of my boys was baking a cake so there was already a nice fire in the cook stove. I took the head and put it on the hot cook stove to expand things a bit.  This makes it easier for sure.  I would not put this on a propane or electric cook top, but the cast iron wood cook top has a nice gradual heat that won't mar the head up.  If you have a regular oven to bake it in I'm sure it would work fine as long as your wife is not home .

When it got hot enough to burn me a little bit I started the process.  You thread the bolt in until it bottoms out in the 3/8"x16 threads you cut in the valve guides, then you tighten the washer.  It will load up a bit, enough that you can feel the bolt start to stretch, then you get a "CRACK" when the sticky, carboned up guide breaks loose. After that it gets pretty easy and you just keep tightening the nut until the guide comes out.