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I picked up one of these over the weekend and will be headed out in a few to see how it handled the job.https://www.4wheelparts.com/Air-Compressors-Air-Tanks-Air-Accessories/Smittybilt-2-54-CFM-Air-Compressor-2780.aspx?t_c=89&t_s=566&t_pt=100437&t_pn=S/B2780Reading some of the links that Gnarly posted a wider tire doesn't have more traction, it simply give you a higher chance of achieving maximum traction. This is because the friction force is independent of the surface area.http://www.dummies.com/education/science/physics/how-surface-area-affects-the-force-of-friction/What's interesting is that for sports cars going with wider tires give you a better opportunity to achieve maximum traction, but it allows a softer rubber compound to be used without wearing out any faster.This, of course, is all things that could be shown in a lab environment. The test I suggested earlier to measure how much pull a given rig could produce should, in ideal lab conditions, result in the same results at street pressure and aired down all other things being equal.In the real world this is often not the case. Another experience that my dad had was a nearly complete loss of traction from his BFG KMs on ice as they were nearly worn out. The lugs lost their ability to flex and as a result couldn't not maintain traction on ice. It was a drastic change from when they were new. The rubber compound didn't really change, but the physical shape of the lugs had changed no longer allow them to have any flexibility.When airing down off road you're increasing the surface area which increases the chances of achieving maximum traction while also making the treat more flexible which allows it to maintain contact longer which make it more likely that one lug won't lose traction before another engages. Then you have the other benefits of airing down that include a softer ride, less impact load on your entire rig, better protection for the tire itself (in most cases).If 300k is looking solely at the equations his argument is valid for a physics test, but because there are a lot more factors to be considered in the real world it doesn't translate to the point that the rubber meets the road.
I picked up one of these over the weekend and will be headed out in a few to see how it handled the job.https://www.4wheelparts.com/Air-Compressors-Air-Tanks-Air-Accessories/Smittybilt-2-54-CFM-Air-Compressor-2780.aspx?t_c=89&t_s=566&t_pt=100437&t_pn=S/B2780
I use the Smittybilts 5.4 cfm 12v pump, it airs up my 33's from 8 psi to my 25 psi street pressure, all four, in about 15 minutes including set-up. I was going to set up an onboard air before I won this in a raffle. Now that I've used this I'd buy one of these in a heartbeat. Some of the guys in my club have used it on their 35's and were amazed at the fill rate. I'm happy.
I'm usually in no big hurry when airing-up, but if i'm B.S.ing and not paying attention this thing will overfill rather quickly. I had a smaller one similar to yours and it gave me a lot more time to B.S. a bit before we got back on the road. I always use my Accurate Bourdon Tube type gauge to check the final pressure, never rely on the pumps gauge. How do you like your Budbilt traction bar?
Cheap air tank.........The spare tire (if it's rated for 50psi, even better)Just put 2 air valve quick disconnects on an air hose. While you're pumping up first tire, you're using the spare to pump up the second. You can even get some air out of the spare for the 4th tire while you're pumping up the third.
No the hose on the spare works great. When we used 33s we would use a 10 ply spare of similar diameter and put it to max psi. Rigged up the locking chuck on one end of a coily hose and a regular chuck on the other. 120 psi in a spare was plenty enough to get 4 33x12.50s from 8 psi to mid to high 20s.We finally quit when mu buddy's vintage spare exploded in his garage. Still a good method if you ask me just use a fresh spare .
that seems so sketchy, i like it! lol
"We finally quit when mu buddy's vintage spare exploded in his garage. Still a good method if you ask me just use a fresh spare ."Well… I’ll tell you what I think about that.First…. H8PVMNT… that post dropped your I.Q down about 20 points! LOL….. Somewhere just above a retard.You went from “Master Tweaker”, to “Master Twit”.. LOL.Secondly, I would NOT want to pump up my spare 2.5 times above the maximum rated – not only because of the obvious danger of exploding and causing some serious injury or damage, but also because the stress may make the tire structure fail prone.Thirdly, buying the necessary connectors and hoses would cost more than a 5 gallon compressed air tank.And, lastly…. I would have to witness a 33x12.50 tire at 120 psi produce enough volume of air to air up 4 tires from 8 PSI to 25 PSI… I don’t think there is enough volume of air (cubic feet of air) in that tire. You would need about 2 cubic feet of air, which is about 15 gallons, or 3 each 5 gallon air tanks, filled to about 150 PSI each.Of course, anything is possible on 4-wheeling forums, and I could be sucking air somewhere. Gnarls.
Now you've gone and done it. I have burned my Brussel sprouts because I had to reply.
If I connected, somehow, my spare tire with 50 psi to another tire that was at 10 psi, they theoretically may balance the air pressure between the two tires to 30/30.
Gnarls you doad.
Hey muddpigg,First, I realize you may hear this often, but Thank YOU for your service to our Country. I have a military family and fortunately and by the Grace of God, so far, I've only had to sit through one military funeral. 14 years of wheeling gives you a pretty good perspective on the hobby/sport. The mud boggers know what they are doing. So for 300k.... perhaps mud bog'n would be fun. Gnarls.
How is having a spare tire aired up to maximum rated pressure qualify as having a “bomb”? I keep my spare close to the max 35 psi. If it’s an old worn out brittle tire then it should be replaced for multiple reasons.
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