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please consider installing a mechanical temp gauge.
This is VERY good advice. WHY??.... a 20R or 22R/RE with our historical issue with an alloy head sitting on a cast iron block can cause a major failure if the engine is overheated.... even for a short period of time.If I could only install ONE gauge in my truck, it would be a mechanical water temperature gauge... I prefer the Autometer gauges.Gnarls.
Thanks for the tips everyone. No engine damage has been done yet, but I would like to prevent it! Likewise, I ordered one of these. Autometer of course. Oil pressure and water temp. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
I trust my oem temp gauge, works great.
I love my oem temp gauge, its accurate +/- .01 degree
I agree with H. The plugs look good. I don't see any lean coloring.Rough idle at a cold start with a carb'd engine is not uncommon.A cold start rough idle, that goes away immediately at warm up, is almost always caused by the air fuel mixture.Ambient air temperature and air density - Relative Humidity and Elevation (barometric pressure) can also significantly affect AFR.Why does the carb NOT have a choke or an AAP? Gnarls.
Good job. I think it looks great. Your going to be amazed at how much more active the mechanical temp gauge is when compared to the stock Moron gauge (similar to an idiot light but in the gauge form). I will tell you not to be alarmed this summer when you see higher temps on your gauge than expected. I see mine go up to 210 on occasion when pulling a long steep hill.This is completely normal just not show by the stock moron gauge.
Having some issues getting the carb to idle smoothly at the idle spec. I can't get it to idle smooth at 700 rpm, but at higher elevation it does. So it needs a mixture adjustment. Debating just getting a Weber, and installing a 02 sensor and gauge to tune it properly. Probably my best bet. That, or I will make my own manual choke and manual throttle. Both would be easy to install. Weber sounds easier. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
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