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My first start is always with plain old water...……..just saying.
Hey Toybrota,Well… it's great that you got your engine to fire right up and it sounded really good. Leaks at 1st time start ups are not uncommon. I’ve had coolant leaks almost every time I have fired a fully rebuilt or partially rebuilt engine. I am very careful about trusting what any auto parts store says, they’re in the “sell-you-everything” business. Regarding the block heater, when I looked at the photo I could not see how it would have enough contact with the block freeze plug bore to sufficiently seal. But I have never used a block heater. As you know, freeze plugs are pounded in under a very tight tolerance. The amount of pressure (pounds per square inch) on those plugs is about 30 PSI if your radiator cap is 13 lb. cap! Risking a coolant leak that size would be crazy. I would consider a different block heater. Pressure testing a coolant system when an engine is cold and pressure testing when it’s at normal running temperature are two different things. My guess is the reason it didn’t restart is probably mixture (air/fuel) issue and nothing mechanical. If engine ran for about 60 seconds, that is plenty of time to get the oil up into the rockers, cam, through all the bearings and cylinder walls. Obviously you got another 15 minutes at RPMs to complete the camshaft break-in.Gnarls.
You might consider turning those tie wraps down. The little clipped off piece sticks up and is extremely sharp.Gnarls.
I've always twisted them off above the square lock with a pair of pliers. Breaks them flush and not sharp. Good looking build so far!
Flush cut with razor blade......
Thoroughly enjoyed following along with your engine build and problem solving skills. Hope the updates (good or bad) keep coming.
Looks like a parts store cap on there now. Get a Sankei cap. Also make sure the ears on the radiator aren't bent. I was having that issue with a janky Ebay 3 core aluminum radiator.
Is the rear leaking seal a Toyota seal?
A rear half-moon leak on the head often looks like the rear seal......
LCE repair sleeve installed at a machine shop. New rear main seal hardware/gasket
First off, it's apparent that it has a rear main seal leak ....I think Toyota installed the steel adapter plate for a reason, prevents a leaky rear main from affecting the clutch components.
And secondly, an interesting issue with a leaky rad cap.
Why is it "apparent"?The plate may slow it down, but will not prevent oil from the rear main seal from getting on the clutch disc if the leak is bad.At the bottom of the bellhousing there is little 3/8" slot. Is oil visible and seeping out of that hole?This should be an easy fix. A TVS Stant cap should be more than adequate. I would not spend $20 on a radiator cap.... but I'm in "frugal mode".Gnarls.
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