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Looks good! I can tell you are making an angry engine with that food dish empty!
Here's how she sits.
I would paint the exhaust manifold super hi-temp orange. I would NOT use those self-locking nuts on the head studs. I like the gray color of the block engine… way better to see any potential leaks. I screwed up and painted my block black…. Dumb.Looking good!!!Gnarls.
I sure hope you are ordering a Marlin 1200 clutch.https://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/heavy-duty/clutch-hilux/1981-88-4cyl-1200-lb-clutch-kit
Use threaded inserts, they're cheaper than helicoils (and stronger too).
Hey T,I appreciate and enjoy your thread and posting up all your updates, photos, and detailing your candid comments on experiences as you complete the rebuild. Great job! I am curious about how your rebuild runs. I’d love to see the compression numbers right before you fire the engine for the break in. Then see them again after a couple hundred miles on your break-in.What octane gas do you plan to burn? What is your elevation?Thanks,Gnarls.
You will probably have to heat up the temp sender and the general area with a torch pretty flippin' hot. Then bite on it HARD with the vise grips and say a quick prayer before you twist on it. If you want the gasket surface cleaner I would use some 400 grit on a piece of 2x4 or other flat block or surface. Don't take much, just enough to get it clean. Never had a problem with that method. Also I like to use the copper adhesive spray on the intake gaskets.
I would be VERY careful applying heat to the manifold. I would use a propane torch and try heating the manifold slightly.I cleaned up my intake manifold mounting surface with some 320 grit sandpaper on a flat block of wood. I only sanded it to just clean up the mounting surface. I did NOT use any sealer on the intake manifold gasket. I don't know if that is the best way or the wrong way to install the manifold on the head?Metal T-square.... great for looking at flat surfaces:https://www.zoro.com/stanley-carpenters-square-steel-24-x-16-in-45-500/i/G6104743/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1pGiubfC3gIVC39-Ch2jlQwqEAQYBSABEgIcN_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.dsHere's an interesting demonstration on cleaning and resurfacing the manifold mounting surface.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cw9c0ydogqsOf course, I don't have big band sander!!Gnarls.
Should I get ANOTHER intake?Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Friday update. Engine is basically ready to go in, I have a small list left. - Transmission input seal/gasket - rear main install - clutch install/flywheel - carb install - pick-up tube install
Transmission input seal/gasket - I would only install Toyota factory seal and use this on seal cover bolts: https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-thread-sealant-with-ptfe/and this one for the gasket: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/ultra-series-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-grey-rigid-high-torque-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-2/- rear main install - Toyota factory only.TIP: If you remove the input shaft seal housing with gear oil in the transmission, you should tilt the tranny back about 45 degrees so the gear oil doesn't drain out of the bottom bolt holes. If you use the bolt sealer, let it cure over night or 24 hours before letting the gear lube contact the bolts - keep it tilted.That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.Gnarls.
I prefer hylomar for sealing the tranny front seal gasket.
Transmission is getting new synthetic gear oil. Anyone recommend a good brand? I know redline MT-90 is the cats Pajamas, but I can't fork out that much right now.
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