Author Topic: Toybrota's 22R build  (Read 39482 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Toybrota

  • Offline 4WD Legend
  • *****
  • Turtle Points: 121
  • Male Posts: 757
  • Member since Dec '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
    • View Profile
    • Buy me some coffee
Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #270 on: Dec 30, 2018, 07:18:44 AM »
Hey Toybrota,

Well… it's great that you got your engine to fire right up and it sounded really good.  :beerchug:

Leaks at 1st time start ups are not uncommon.  I’ve had coolant leaks almost every time I have fired a fully rebuilt or partially rebuilt engine.

I am very careful about trusting what any auto parts store says, they’re in the “sell-you-everything” business.  ???

Regarding the block heater, when I looked at the photo I could not see how it would have enough contact with the block freeze plug bore to sufficiently seal.  But I have never used a block heater.  As you know, freeze plugs are pounded in under a very tight tolerance.  The amount of pressure (pounds per square inch) on those plugs is about 30 PSI if your radiator cap is 13 lb. cap!  Risking a coolant leak that size would be crazy.  I would consider a different block heater.  :blah:

Pressure testing a coolant system when an engine is cold and pressure testing when it’s at normal running temperature are two different things.  :shake:

My guess is the reason it didn’t restart is probably mixture (air/fuel) issue and nothing mechanical.   :thumbs:

If engine ran for about 60 seconds, that is plenty of time to get the oil up into the rockers, cam, through all the bearings and cylinder walls. :D

Obviously you got another 15 minutes at RPMs to complete the camshaft break-in.

Gnarls.  :gap:
The engine ran great! Everything is Definitely oiled up well.
I am doing a different block heater, I'm returning the one I got in favor of a magnetic electrical heater that goes on your oil pan. For the mean time, I will be using a rubber freeze plug in the hole I pulled the heater out of.
Coolant leaks are common on first start up, you are right. That's why  checking the system with a tester is important. If I can pressurize the system to 13 PSI (rad cap threshold) then I don't have any leaks.
Before I start it up I am going to verify timing again (pulling valve cover and making sure it's all good)
I'd like to note as well, this thing didn't have a single leak prior to the little blow out, everything else is sealed properly!

I plan to get the break-in done today after I fix the freeze-plug. One thing I noticed is the oil pressure, over 60psi at hot idle. I expect about as much with the new pump. The pressure is constant too, as fluctuating numbers can attribute to blocked oil passages... Not for me.


Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk


 
 
 
 
 

Related Topics

9 Replies
4959 Views
Last post Dec 19, 2006, 06:05:03 AM
by yotadork83
1 Replies
2127 Views
Last post Jan 20, 2007, 10:13:46 AM
by toyhunter
48 Replies
19089 Views
Last post Nov 30, 2015, 01:11:55 PM
by Kaos III%
23 Replies
8074 Views
Last post May 16, 2013, 10:49:38 PM
by 88_YotaCrawler_88
40 Replies
26408 Views
Last post Apr 04, 2015, 11:20:52 PM
by Jason E.