Author Topic: 1987 TOY 4x4 Pickup 22r head gasket, New head, et. al?  (Read 1311 times)

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  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
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1987 TOY 4x4 Pickup 22r head gasket, New head, et. al?
« on: Aug 03, 2017, 06:43:29 PM »
Hi guys.  Hope you can lay me out on what to buy.  I have a 1987 Toyota 4x4 22r. 5spd.   (its in the  Avatar Picture).  It has 146800 almost 147000 miles.  I bought it new 30 years ago next month.  Never really had problems with it.  I currently have Bilstien 4600 shocks and a SNUG TOP shell with Carpet Kit from 1988.   Nice head turner truck.  Has been since day it came off show room floor.  I take care of it.

Ive been having the Spike Temp issue.  I put in new water pump, hoses, belts.  Did the Marlin Clutch thing too.  I drive it rarely.  The days are about 75 degrees here so I have been driving it to work.  It eats (drinks?)  about 1qt of water a day.   It spikes then settles down to middle of gauge.  This morning before I went to work.  I added the 1 qt of 50-50 Prestone Green.  And for poops and giggles looked under the oil cap.  Oil level was full.  This time for the first time I noticed a small amount of the creme crud under the cap.  It burns about a qt every 1500 - 2000 miles.  I have burned Castrol GTX 20-50 in San Diego and 10-40 here in New Mexico Mountains.  I changed the oil every 5000 miles since new.  Must confess not every 6 months but every 5000. 

Head gasket on its way out right?

Do you think I am asking for trouble with the stock bottom end, rings, bearings etc.  I take care of the TOY so it is not abused at 147000 one owner, basically one driver miles.  It is stock with all the California Smog intact and would like to keep it. That way.  AISIN carburetor that I did some work on by reading maybe YotaTech Blog maybe here.  Dont remember

I know how to turn a wrench though have not really done it since I started making $$$ and I could make more than I pay the mechanic for same amount of hours.  I am going to do the work myself.

OK here is where I seek your wisdom. 

I will buy a Haines/Chilton manual.  Can somebody send me an efile of a FSM or tell me where to find one that is really online and not an empty link?  I will buy one as well if they are available.

What I want to do is .  New Head, New gaskets, new Cam, new header (?), new timing chain, oil pump.

Head:  Enginbldr, DOA, LCE  ? which one
Cam:  I would like to keep Cam same brand as head.  No?  Which cam since the motor is stock, carb stock, gears stock,  31x10.50x15 Michelin AT tires
Timing Chain (brand?)
Oil Pump (brand?)
Header:LCE  worth it or just keep stock exhaust

So please tell me what to get.  I am leaning towards Enginbldr.  LCE header.

Help a guy out please!  I am leaning to your Wisdom...PLEASE!



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I'd go engnbldr head, Toyota chain, the bottom end should be good but pop the pan and check some rod and main bearings to be certain.   :twocents:
'85 Xtra-cab, 4.5" Downey Off-Road lift, 12-15 KM2's on American Racing Baja's, Marlin's-4.88's & 4.7's, Downey Off-Road CAI, Marlin rear bumper & sliders

THK Matt

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eng bldr head and 261c cam, Thorley tri-Y Header (LCE is just overpriced)
2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
5.3L V8, 3.5in Lift

2010 Chevy Tahoe LT Wife's Daily
5.3L V8, 6in Lift, 35s, AMP power steps

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I bought it new 30 years ago next month.
My '90 is will be celebrating it's 27th anniversary of its first rock trail and failed river crossing this month

Best way to determine if it is an HG, is to drain the oil and see what it looks like, a compression test would also tell you if you have an issue.

The only issue you would have with the bottom end is if you have water in oil long enough to cause premature bearing wear, otherwise you should be good for another 100k, or so.  If you have water in the oil, you will need to drop the pan and remove the sludge from the crank shaft and pan, you can inspect the bearings then, and then check the wear and see if you need to put new bearings on or have to pull the block and have the crank turned.

I wouldn't waste your money on a haynes/chiltons, they are basically useless, check your messages.

If the head isn't cracked, you don't need to buy a new one, I would take it to a machine shop and have it pressure tested, if it isn't cracked, they will replace the valve the seats/guides/seals and resurface it for under $100, if you don't have a spring compressor, you can have the machine shop tear it down and rebuild it.

Due to the age, it would be a good time to have the radiator rebuilt/buy new, replace the upper/lower rad hoses, and a new Toyota thermostat.

If you are looking for more performance, none of the bolt on power adders will replace the performance lost by running 31's over stock 28's, nor will you see much gain from them, swapping to 4.56 gears would be your best upgrade, and you can usually find oem diffs for around $200/each.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

gdmcondev [OP]

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WOW thanx guys.  Enginbldr it is.  Head, 261 camshaft.  I will drop the pan.  I was not going to.  I think I will go one step up on the head upgrade.

When I hear TOYOTA chain does than mean forget the aftermarket metal ones?

Stock Toyota head gasket and Enginbldr gaskets rest of way.

Nice tip on the Thorley Headers.

Stock TOYOTA oil pump?

Thank you again!

One of our partners here sent me a PM for a FSM too.  Thank you you know who you are!



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The Toyota chain comes with the POS plastic timing guides......

The LCE dual chain conversion is overkill.

You want the chain from whoever supplies it with the metal/nylon guides.  (forgot who at the moment)
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Yotamasters has chain kit w metal guides for 80.00
OSK makes a kit as well
« Last Edit: Aug 04, 2017, 06:13:14 PM by OVRAROK »
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