Author Topic: LCE distributor worth it?  (Read 2843 times)

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MrFatEggs

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LCE distributor worth it?
« on: Jun 02, 2017, 11:09:24 PM »
I am almost done with my hybrid build, but don't have a distributor or oil pump. Is it worth it to buy the $260 lc engineering distributor vs the $70 eBay generic One? Also is the lc engineering $100 oil pump worth the extra money vs the $15 eBay ones?

emsvitil

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Re: LCE distributor worth it?
« Reply #1 on: Jun 02, 2017, 11:38:23 PM »
no, no, no and no


Try rockauto.     You could get the pump locally, but since you're waiting anyway...................
Ed
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86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

H8PVMNT

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Re: LCE distributor worth it?
« Reply #2 on: Jun 05, 2017, 09:14:39 AM »
I would rather scrounge a used stock distributor.  I had one of the cheap re-maned ones seize up and blow the teeth of my distributor drive gear. 
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SlayTank

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Re: LCE distributor worth it?
« Reply #3 on: Aug 15, 2017, 08:50:49 PM »
I was looking at distributors as mine needs a new VAC advance. The VAC advance was almost as much as a entire rebuilt distributor off rock auto. then I saw the DUI distributors that LCE sells. Im not drag racing but if I'm going to pay 200$ for a new distributor might as well pay a little extra and get the DUI. Not so much for performance but because it simplifies the entire ignition system and parts would be easy to find (just replace with a std GM HEI)

What do you guys think? I looked around and didnt find any reviews on them

pleasetellmeno

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Re: LCE distributor worth it?
« Reply #4 on: Aug 15, 2017, 09:13:36 PM »
I tried a Cardone distributor off rock auto, had the vacuum advance go out pretty fast. I warrantied it, and the new one went out in 2 days. ended up just buying the vacuum advance diaphragm off LCE. Rock auto gave me my money back.

Gnarly4X

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Re: LCE distributor worth it?
« Reply #5 on: Aug 16, 2017, 04:46:24 AM »
I would go oem on both

Those 2 parts are obviously important.  I’d have trouble justifying the cost of the LC product, although they are most likely very high quality.  I would tend to stay away from the Autozone stuff and remanufactured parts, especially for the disty – mainly for the advance curve specs.

I’d tend to stick with OEM, it’s a safe choice.

Be careful whenever you read or hear someone say “OE”.

The acronyms OE and OEM are often tossed around together.  OE, in many circles, means Original Equivalent.  OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer.  There can be a big difference!  OEM typically means the part is manufactured by the same “original” manufacturer, and source, so it meets the same exact specs. 

OE can also mean Original Equipment.  Meaning that the part is the exact same part, made by the same source, that came on the original vehicle at the time of manufacturing.  If you go to your local car dealership and have them install a new windshield, they will only install OE (Original Equipment - if its still available), same as what the vehicle came with from the factory.

OE can also mean Original EQUIVALENT and does NOT mean it was manufactured by the same manufacturer, source, or meets the same exact specifications as the OEM or Original Equipment.

The other term, of course, is “aftermarket” - that typically has nothing to do with the manufacturing source of Original Equipment or Original Equipment Manufacturer.

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Aug 16, 2017, 04:54:49 AM by Gnarly4X »
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