Topic: Rebuilding Front Axle on 85 4x4 Pickup

[Hickory Nut]

I recently installed a long block in my 85 4x4 Pickup and am now moving to the front axle. My current set up has Auto Hubs and I decided to change to Manuals. Got the final package of parts in today - Marlin front axle rebuild kit with bearings, New Aisin Hubs off eBay, and TG stud kit.

I've done a good bit of research on the rebuild but is there anything really tricky about it? Preload? Precision measurements? The videos I've seen look pretty straight forward. I would like to pull the whole thing and repaint it but I'm not going to press my mechanical ability/luck. I've replaced wheel bearings on a bass boat before so I think this would be similar.

Will I have to take apart the New Hub assembly before I install them or will they just slide on? Sorry for the stupid questions but you guys were a ton of help on the Motor swap.

[wolfashes]

Dude, link to swap? Sounds awesome. I just got done telling some dude how I'd love to put a Chevy 350 in mine.
As for your axle... it's completely subjective, but IMO, if you swapped the motor, the axle should be fairly straight forward. If you don't already have them, I'd get a 54mm socket (so you don't do the caveman chisel + hammer style), a torque wrench, and a pull-scale. Stick to the torque settings; pack your bearings (bearing packers are cheap and handy. I used to do it by hand, but the packers work much better). If you don't have a service manual, hit me up  It goes over the measurements you're talking about.

Wheel and trunnion bearings - stick to torque settings to get the proper amount of torque on these.
Turning resistance - I sort of never give this part the proper amount of patience. But with shims provided and a digital scale, you should be able to measure the correct amount of shims needed to achieve proper turning resistance (with the drag-link removed). The trick is getting this done while maintaining proper trunnion bearing preload.

[wolfashes]

A good resource:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

I didn't know they made a bearing packer. That looks like it could save some time and mess. I forgot about the 54mm Socket and pull scale I will get those as well.

What do you mean by Link the swap?

I only have a Chilton manual so I may need that SM. Thanks for the info and link to 4crawler's axle rebuild page.

[cbeers]

These videos are good  from Low Range   
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe7MiOkiiAJwzBP7LoQpyrlyqum6rH5Ab

CB

[jssgbsn]

4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml

Have done it a few times.  This guide is complete.  Make sure you have 54mm axle nut socket, torque wrench, snap ring pliers, lots of grease for packing bearings and birf, brass drift/punch, anti-seize, pull scal/fish scale, one M8x1.25 bolt (check guide regarding putting snap ring back on, pretty sure that is the size you will want), use the FSM suggestions on shim heights, I don't remember but pretty sure 4crawler references the correct shim pattern.

If your new hub is greased leave it be, if not be prepared for some patience.  There is a YouTube out there on cleaning and regressing the hub.  It's a bit of a pain.

That's the most important things off the top.of my head.  Good luck.

[jssgbsn]

I would ignore the bearing packer, you will still end up using the hand pack method, especially if you are at all OCD with maintenance.  Hand pack IMO is the fastest and easiest method.  After you do your first bearing the others will go much quicker.

Also, make sure to get a bearing race tool for installing them.  That is crucial, I also put my bearing races in a freezer for 24+hours.  They will shrink slightly making it easier to pound them in.

Im.certain if you hit a road block during your rebuild, somebody here will know how to help.

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

I have the FSM on the way.

Everything is broken down and almost cleaned up. I have a customer that has a sand blaster. I am going to ask if I can clean the Knuckle and Hub/Rotor assembly at his shop. I didn't find any broken or worn races/bearings and at least the drivers side was full of grease. The Felts were worn big time and the metal bracket on the back was almost rotted off. It needed a little love.

I appreciate the replies and will keep you posted on the results.

[wolfashes]

What do you mean by Link the swap?

Link to the page of your motor swap, if available.

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

Does anyone have any suggestions on a bearing race tool kit?

[OVRAROK]

I use a 3/8 brass drift punch to get them out. I'm a Mac tool guy so my is Mac, I think any off brand would work for installing

[OOPS]

I just knock them in with my brass hammer and brass punches, all homemade!! I have done at least 30 axles and never had a problem yet!! I make a lot of my special service tools!! Put them in the freezer, makes them a lot easier to go in, works on all races!!

[jssgbsn]

You can 'loan them from parts stores'.  Different size dyes for different size races.

I use brass drift, just make sure to freeze them and take your time going around the race and getting it in slowly so it doesn't bind if you get one side in too deep.

[Slabzilla]

I use the old race, stacked on top of the new one, wide side down, to drive the new race gently in. If the race stays in the hole with the new one, just drive it back out with your brass drift on the bottom edge, been doin' this trick for years, no special tools required.   

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

I have not been able to find a brass drift locally or have been looking in the wrong places. I used a piece of square aluminum tubing to get the hub races in and it worked like a champ. I am in the process of getting the drag link out of the way so I can get the upper knuckle races in. I really didn't want to do that but that's the only way you can check the preload and get the upper race in.

I do like the idea of using the old race upside down though.

Any suggestions on the Easiest way to remove the connections on the steering arm rod and drag link?  And get them back in?

[Slabzilla]

You can rent/check-out a tie-rod end extraction tool from an auto parts store or buy one of your own. There like a miniature press, so you don't richard up the threads.   

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

I finally finished the drivers side this afternoon but ended up breaking off one of the Hub cover bolts. I guess it was the cheap harbor freight torque wrench. Talk about dirty jobs. This takes the cake! I am ready to put some miles on the truck but still have the passenger side to do.