The Toyota truck was one of the cooler things going on in 1983, right?  I was ten years old, impressionable, remember some good times... and always wanted a 4x4 with big tires.  Now I have two. 

This forum has been a great help already since I picked this running project up in late January this year.  Figured I'd use this thread to document what's getting done and hopefully get some input & ideas from knowledgeable enthusiasts. As a former aircraft mechanic, I like to try to fix things right the first time, so they last a long time. 

This is my 4th Toyota, previously had an 87 4x4 (rebuilt the 22re... twice), an 86 MR2 for a couple minutes, then 15 years ago I bought my 97 4Runner which has been significantly modded, wheeled, explored and DD over a large portion of the continental U.S., clocking 200k in that time. 

So the plan for this new-to-me 1983 SR5 is to keep it looking somewhat like it did when I got it (stockish), fix and/or update items & issues along the way, and basically keep it in service for the foreseeable future of internal combustion piston engines.  Plans include addition of 83-84 Celica EFI, or a possible 22RE or other 4 cylinder swap, addition of A/C, a modern invisible sound system (ok amp & speakers), some real bed tie-downs, and I'm sure I'll add to the list. 

A little background:  I'm the 3rd owner.  The truck was originally purchased as a Blue SR5 in SoCal, and according to the story, was daily driven from long beach to redlands or something like that for years by the original owner.  I'm not sure why, but a repaint happened toward the end of his ownership, I'm told his wife went to Home Depot, picked out a color, and had the truck sprayed.  It isn't a bad paint job, they removed most of the interior for it, but kept the engine bay original.  I believe the bedliner was sprayed about the same time, as well as a Rancho lift of a few inches installed.  "About 20" years ago the second owner bought it.  He moved from SoCal to Phoenix and used it as a DD.  Unfortunately he wasn't very mechanical, so while the body/frame are in great condition, the mechanicals seemed neglected.  The engine was replaced two times (I don't know why), the brakes were maintained well, and most of the electrical was fairly intact.  Everything else needed attention. 

In the interest of post count, I'll continue shortly (pics coming!)

Affectionately dubbed "Hector", as seen in the Craigslist ad when I bought it

The heater valve started leaking - I found the valve for an 84+ mounts up and needs a U hose to route back to the passenger side, found a Gates hose that fits perfect for that.  Got a new OEM Toyota heater valve. No pics for that right now.

If you look close in the prior new seat picture, you can see a clamp in the drivers door... holding up the window.  The drivers window regulator was toast, I'm not sure how/why the PO was able to live with pushing it up and down by hand... I wasn't going to be doing that. 
I found that an 83 or earlier regulator is either impossible or just expensive to obtain.  I decided to buy the 84+ and see if I could make it work.  With some cutting and welding and a few other adjustments, I was able to reclock it to work perfectly.  This one cost me $17 on Amazon.  I detailed this out on YotaTech if anyone needs the info... search window regulators.

Then it was on to door panels... the original blue vinyl ones were trashed... my $30 solution: wood panels, stain and spar urethane.

83 on top, 84+ bottom









While the blue would have been cool if everything was intact (exterior paint too), that isn't the case and so wanted to change it.  I debated a long time about painting interior parts.  Read countless forums, talked to friends, and the consensus was that it works if you do it right.  So I got some vinyl paint and some plastic paint.  Plastic paint doesn't work on vinyl I found out.  However, as skeptical as I was, I am happy with the results so far.  This isn't a show truck, I just don't want it to look like a hoopty when I'm driving it. 

Spurged for the NOS simulated wood grain center dash panel too... 

Got all those projects knocked out... installed wheels



Took it out for a test ride and promptly blew the head gasket.   Steamed up the entire neighborhood!!

The culprit:


Spotted this in my neighborhood... anybody recognize it?




Milled head ready for reinstallation...


Patiently waiting for a new heartbeat...



... to be continued.

Dealing with this early 22r head led me on a search regarding engine / trans compatibility.  There's a lot of info out there, but not all concise and clear. 

But, correct me if I'm wrong:   a later model 22RE (say 86+) engine will bolt up to the L52, yes?

I know the heads aren't interchangeable due to block height.  For some reason I've been lead to believe that I'd have to swap my trans to use a later 22RE, but I'm not certain that is true. 

Fun truck I really dig the use of the old stock steel wheels.  I finally got a set I will use on my '80 someday.

I don't agree. A 22RE swap is a ton of work and could easily cost more than a 2rz/3rz swap and will barely make a difference. I would either keep the carb or put in a completely stock 2rz or 3rz with w series trans as suggested. A modern powerplant with obd diagnostic makes a world of difference. With the choices we have today, a 22RE should not be considered an "upgrade".
Anyway, that's a nice truck and very clean build

When I was searching for a truck the thought of the 3rz swap crossed my mind, but then I decided against it.  I just read your swap thread, very nicely done and it's making me strongly consider it.  Not sure if having the 22r makes it easier or more difficult (I don't even think I have an ECU?), but I'll look into it.  I have time.  I'd like to be able to drive this up to the mountains, so the carb isn't really ideal... and there's a number of other things about the current engine and it's condition that warrant a replacement of some sort in the future.  My 3.4 in my 97 is easily the best engine I've ever owned in terms of build quality and reliability, so the thought of having an equivalent (in engineering terms) in this truck is definitely nice.  We shall see... I haven't even driven it enough to fill the tank a second time yet. =)

Fun truck I really dig the use of the old stock steel wheels.  I finally got a set I will use on my '80 someday.

When I saw those in the CL add I loved them immediately... still need to polish up the chrome trim rings and center caps and install... head gasket first tho...

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=95822.0

Some really good info in here.^^

What size are those stock steelies? 15x6?

EDIT:   Ooops I answered wrong... sorry... 15 x 5.5

I'm glad you posted the pics of the door panels, they came out pretty nice!  I've been looking at options from aluminum (no thanks), to plastic, to particle board and recovering like stock, and this.  Only thing I think I would done differently is to bevel the holes for the screws so they don't stick out as much, or figure out how to recess stock-ish clips in the back.  The last option would be the cleanest, but would probably only work if you were covering the panels with vinyl or something.

Then it was on to door panels... the original blue vinyl ones were trashed... my $30 solution: wood panels, stain and spar urethane.

Hey, whatever works for you on your truck is really what's best.  I went to lowes after work and remembered everything but the wood paneling.  Luckily I live nearly across the street

I am loading up a 3RZ this weekend for a guy who is living in Utah. It is coming out of a 3RZ auto 4runner.  The 3RZ has a knock but we think it is just a balance shaft.  He was kind of waffling on the swap and considering selling the stuff.  Do you want me to get you in touch with him?

No need for body lift. Engine will easily fit without it. You need a 3rz w series bellhousing. That is just the stock bellhousing that comes behind any 3rz that is standard shift. 

I am loading up a 3RZ this weekend for a guy who is living in Utah. It is coming out of a 3RZ auto 4runner.  The 3RZ has a knock but we think it is just a balance shaft.  He was kind of waffling on the swap and considering selling the stuff.  Do you want me to get you in touch with him?

Man I appreciate the heads up, but I'll pass for now.  When I'm ready I'll probably get a donor truck for some additional spare parts.

Receipt says 5mm.  Link to the SKU: http://m.homedepot.com/p/Underlayment-Common-5-0-mm-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Actual-0-189-in-x-23-75-in-x-47-75-in-1507142/202089010

Dude, you're awesome!  That's thinner than the ones at lowes, and they're even supposed to be in stock at my local store