Topic: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"

[liveoak]

Hey, dont you have a build thread on here? I cant find it.

Unfortunately I had to remove it because of some troll issues.

[cbeers]

that f'ing sucks   

you had a great thread.

CB

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Unfortunately I had to remove it because of some troll issues.

That's messed up. That all went on way too long.

[Gnarly4X]

that f'ing sucks   

you had a great thread.

CB

Yes!  It was a great thread!! What happened?  I don't remember any "troll" issues??

Gnarls.

[:)bestgen4runner]

Yes!  It was a great thread!! What happened?  I don't remember any "troll" issues??

Gnarls.

It's a common issue in the wild that the trolls don't often recognize other trolls. 
Just kidding, I love You Gnarly.

[OVRAROK]

you may want to try another alt for testing purposes. also, the stock pulley size is 2 3/4. if it's larger than that, it may not be spinning fast enough at idle

I took my alternator to a local...i think the key is getting it to kick on right past idle..cause if you crawling..it will never charge..the guy I talked to was able to build me one..that kicked to 14.7 at 900rpms..

[liveoak]

It's a common issue in the wild that the trolls don't often recognize other trolls.

 

[Gnarly4X]

A troll is a being in Norse mythology and Scandinavian folklore.In Old Norse sources, beings described as trolls dwell in isolated rocks, mountains, or caves, live together in small family units, and are rarely helpful to human beings.
noun
•   1.a person who makes a deliberately offensive or provocative online post.
•   2.a line or bait used in trolling for fish.
verb
•   1.make a deliberately offensive or provocative online post with the aim of upsetting someone or eliciting an angry response from them:"if people are obviously trolling then I'll delete your posts and do my best to ban you"


I understand what the word "troll" is and how it is commonly used in an online forum.  How many, who have posted on this forum, cannot be defined as a "troll"?

And, how does an agitator, flamer, or troll cause a good thread to be deleted?  I don't get it? 

Going back in time around 1999 when I first starting posting on these types of forums, there have always been "trolls".

Some of the very best, most informative, and interesting threads have been filled with emotional flaming, ranting, raving, and trolling posts. 

Tone and intent are not always easily correctly conveyed or perceived in textual communications - also esoterically known as conceptual semantics - thus the birth of the emoji.

So what's the big deal? 

If you can't stand the heat, then stay out of the kitchen. 

Gnarls.   That's my opinion, I may be a troll.

[Gnarly4X]

It's a common issue in the wild that the trolls don't often recognize other trolls. 
Just kidding, I love You Gnarly.

Hey bgen!!!... I love you back twice as hard!! 

Gnarls.

[helipilot77]

I took my alternator to a local...i think the key is getting it to kick on right past idle..cause if you crawling..it will never charge..the guy I talked to was able to build me one..that kicked to 14.7 at 900rpms..

I wonder if there is a Denso "hairpin alternator that would be an easy bolt in like the one I found for my diesel? They generate almost full amperage at near idle speeds.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I wonder if there is a Denso "hairpin alternator that would be an easy bolt in like the one I found for my diesel? They generate almost full amperage at near idle speeds.

Hey, are you still running the truck lite led headlights, would you still recommend them? I thought maybe the lower power draw of the led's might help. My headlights are due to be replaced anyway. .

[helipilot77]

Hey, are you still running the truck lite led headlights, would you still recommend them? I thought maybe the lower power draw of the led's might help. My headlights are due to be replaced anyway. .

Yeah. Im still running for them and still really like them although when it snowed last winter I did have the problem with snow building up on them although I think the new ones have a thermostatically controlled defrost element. You should put your effort into finding the problem before you start trying other fixes though.

[helipilot77]

I took my alternator to a local...i think the key is getting it to kick on right past idle..cause if you crawling..it will never charge..the guy I talked to was able to build me one..that kicked to 14.7 at 900rpms..

I prefer to rebuild my own alternators myself. It’ easy enough if you have access to a factory service manual.

[OVRAROK]

I prefer to rebuild my own alternators myself. It’ easy enough if you have access to a factory service manual.

With a rebuild...you can change when it kicks on?..

[OVRAROK]

I prefer to rebuild my own alternators myself. It’ easy enough if you have access to a factory service manual.

my problem with my alternator was it didn't kick on until like 1800rpms..at a stop light I noticed a dim in headlights..then I'd take off and BAM..lights would get brighter..when crawling..i may never hit the throttle..your idling, switching gears

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Yeah. Im still running for them and still really like them although when it snowed last winter I did have the problem with snow building up on them although I think the new ones have a thermostatically controlled defrost element. You should put your effort into finding the problem before you start trying other fixes though.

think the heated ones are just under $300 ea. The non heated look to be just over $300 for the pair. It's taken a long time to talk myself into $300 for headlights.

I agree 100%, the headlights would be a bandaid fix at best, if it even worked. I really have done all I know to do though, other than swap the alternator (which I will do).
I have wondered if it could be caused by the cam or the way the adjustable cam gear is set but that's all beyond my skill level at this point.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I recommend performing voltage drops on both battery cables.
Test from the battery post to the connection point. both positive and negative.
Also there should be a few additional grounds. back of the head to firewall. drivers side motor mount to wheel well? and another from the battery to the fender. I would check all of those also. When I first got My 4runner it would almost die when I would turn on any major power draw. I found that two of the additional grounds had been left off. I replaced them and problem was gone. night an day diff.
Good luck My friend. Love this truck. 

Voltage drop test results.

Battery +post to starter  .07
Battery +post to charge wire at alternator .04
Battery -post to block  .03
Battery -post frame to block .03
Battery - to body  .02
Battery - frame to body .03
Battery -post head to body .04

Hopefully that makes sense. First time doing a voltage drop test, good to learn something new.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Pulling my axle apart, I was surprised to find the passenger side spindle looking like this.



It looks to me like the surface the seal rides on has grooves wearing in it. When I pulled the hub assembly off there was an orange colored smear in the  red grease. I'm thinking the seal might be letting a little water in.

Passenger side      Driver side

What do you guys think, time to replace it? 

[helipilot77]

When I pulled the hub assembly off there was an orange colored smear in the  red grease. I'm thinking the seal might be letting a little water in.
What do you guys think, time to replace it?

The orange makes me think rust too. How deep is the groove? If it is too deep a new seal wouldn’t solve the problem. The only way to fix a groove would be to braze new material onto the axle to build it up, then have it turned smooth. Heating the axle enough to braze it might not be good for it. I think a seal needs at least .001” of stretch to seal properly. Measure it and see what you have. 

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

The orange makes me think rust too. How deep is the groove? If it is too deep a new seal wouldn’t solve the problem. The only way to fix a groove would be to braze new material onto the axle to build it up, then have it turned smooth. Heating the axle enough to braze it might not be good for it. I think a seal needs at least .001” of stretch to seal properly. Measure it and see what you have. 

Sorry, I wasnt very clear. I have new seals to install.  I'm trying to decide if the spindle needs to be replaced. I'm thinking it does. Im ashamed to say, I dont have the tools to measure, I really need to get some.
Now I'm questioning If I should replace the wheel bearings aswell. The inner part of the bearing that rides on the spindle has the same discoloration as seen on the spindle in the pic. I wasnt expecting any issues with these parts. Seems like just yesterday I installed them  haha!
I'm tempted to just run it till spring and then replace everything.

[Groundpounder17]

Great job on your truck!  It has really come together nicely!

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Great job on your truck!  It has really come together nicely!

Thanks  .  I should have an update coming in the next few weeks that I'm pretty excited about.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I made a tie rod end puller or rather pusher. Works great, no hassle, no torn boots.

   

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

ARP hub studs from FROR



ARP hub studs installed with a little oil on the threads, very snug fit.
Got a new spindle for the passenger side. Went with Fuji brand from YotaMasters. looks like a very nice piece and made in Japan.  Front end gets a full rebuild.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Locking Hubs get full rebuild and installed with new cone washers.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

So this has been sitting in the living room for way too long and is the reason I am getting into the front axle for no good reason    I've always ran open front, I'm pretty excited about this.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Installing the diff came with some unexpected difficulties. The 4cyl diff studs are too short for the beefed up HP housing. longer studs from Marlin fixed that (part #MCHT-345). If anyone has the Toyota part number for these studs post up.
 Minimal grinding on the axle housing was necessary to get the diff to fit. The ARB and heavy duty housing really add some weight to the diff, that and worrying about the air line made for a fun time test fitting.

 

[toyodaaddict [OP]]