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Hmmmmm.... I'm having trouble with "..not care about these... " ?? But... to each his own.I am ANAL about leaks.. .I hate leaks!!When a rear main engine seal starts leaking, usually the crankcase oil gets on the clutch disc and it will start slipping. Most often the clutch disc will need to be replaced.It's been my experience that proper and conscientious maintenance on these old trucks will get you many more miles and save on repair and replacement costs, as well as trail failures. Over the years I've seen many times a vehicle on the trail stuck, broken, or dead simply because the owner does not care about good maintenance.By the way, just a suggestion.... if you drop the tanny, you might want to consider replacing the input shaft seal and housing gasket. If you decided to replace the input shaft seal, I highly recommend you buy the Toyota seal. I used Permatex Thread Sealer on the bolts, and Ultra Grey on the gasket - per Permatex.That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.Gnarls.
Hey Gnarly, I went ahead and took your advice and ordered a input shaft seal too. From Toyota of course. I have been thinking about purchasing a new clutch disk, as you said a failing rear main can destory an already fine working clutch. I have no reason to believe that the clutch is bad, it engages just as good as the day I installed it 9 months ago. If anything clutch related were to go bad, it would just be the disk itself. Would you recommend a place where I can buy just the disk? I don't need a whole Marlin clutch kit. As far as the rear main, I have an OEM Toyota seal going on with a seal saver for LCE. I am also re-sealing the pan as well. It doesn't leak, but you can't really do a rear main properly without it. I'm starting this weekend, since I've done it all before I should have it done in a day's work. Hopefully...Aside from the rear, I'm doing the front oil seal as well. Again a Toyota seal. The front seal doesn't sit as far into the pump, therefore there isn't a need to use a seal saver. Any advice on the clutch would be great. Thanks a bunch!Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Further investigations have shown that gear oil is leaking... Not engine oil.Which is strange, as I remember it being engine oil before. Having tasted and smelled both I can tell them apart. At least I'll have both seals on hand.What prevents the new seal from leaking? Won't it just ride in the old groove?Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
... What prevents the new seal from leaking? Won't it just ride in the old groove?
Good question.The rubber in the seal will harden over time and heat cycles. The little spring gets weak. When the rubber cannot flex, it will allow hot oil - gear or motor - to leak. The seal in my input shaft housing was petrified and literally crumbled when I removed it.The "groove" area on my input housing was very slightly worn, a little less than .001", so I figured it was OK.Gnarls.
... As far as the rear main, what are your thoughts on replacement for it? Marlin has always recommended that you DO NOT do it if it isn't bad. Let sleeping dogs lie.
I took a stock balancer and put it on the lathe. Turned it down, polished it and got a seal with the correct od and id to match.
I'm cheap is another way to word it.
I just did this seal.So did Gnarly4x.Other than ensuring the proper placement of the seal, it's like many others. I personally spent $25ish on the bearing and seal driver kit from Harbor Freight and couldn't be happier. I have used it countless times and will keep doing so. It has ten or so various sized drivers that swap out in seconds.New gasket too right?CB
Just got that same seal driver kit! I'm glad I got it. Only $20 As far as the gasket, I'm just going to use ultra black silicone maker. I'm also gonna put a small amount around the seal when I drive it in, for extra insurance. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
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