Author Topic: ToyBrota's 85 Xtracab Build up. (Read 71308 times)

joeyf · « **Reply #90 on:** Oct 01, 2017, 10:03:51 PM »

You could us plumbing but it would probably last just as long as jb weld, brazing rod would be the best thing to use.

Toybrota · « **Reply #91 on:** Oct 01, 2017, 10:05:23 PM »

Quote from: joeyf on Oct 01, 2017, 10:03:51 PM

You could us plumbing but it would probably last just as long as jb weld, brazing rod would be the best thing to use.

Okay cool, I'll get on that tomorrow. Probably gonna have to drain it again. I'm pretty good at soldering and some principles carry over.

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300k · « **Reply #92 on:** Oct 01, 2017, 10:16:22 PM »

Just swap to a decent v6 radiator while its all out. Putting all this time into a 4cyl is lame. It takes like 3 minutes to redrill holes.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #93 on:** Oct 02, 2017, 04:20:58 AM »

Quote from: 300k on Oct 01, 2017, 10:16:22 PM

Just swap to a decent v6 radiator while its all out. Putting all this time into a 4cyl is lame. It takes like 3 minutes to redrill holes.

There is more to it than just 3 minutes. The V-6 radiator may have different dimensions, causing a fit problem.

Then there's the cost... 300k, do you want to donate a new V-6 radiator?

Gnarls.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #94 on:** Oct 02, 2017, 07:20:26 AM »

Aluminum after market v6 radiator less than 150 on ebay. Bolts difectly in place.

Toybrota · « **Reply #95 on:** Oct 02, 2017, 09:32:13 AM »

Quote from: redneckcustoms13 on Oct 02, 2017, 07:20:26 AM

Aluminum after market v6 radiator less than 150 on ebay. Bolts difectly in place.

I'll look into that, I might try the plumbing solder fix. My heater does work now! Works pretty darn good too

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300k · « **Reply #96 on:** Oct 02, 2017, 10:35:18 AM »

Quote from: Gnarly4X on Oct 02, 2017, 04:20:58 AM

There is more to it than just 3 minutes. The V-6 radiator may have different dimensions, causing a fit problem.

Then there's the cost... 300k, do you want to donate a new V-6 radiator?

Gnarls.

Theres a video on YouTube...pretty straight forward. Clamp your 4cyl rad to the v6 rad with the radiator caps even with each other, use paint pen to mark where the holes are on the 4cyl, unclamp, drill. Faster than messing with solder.

As for price, go to a junkyard and grab one out of a 2nd gen 4runner.

Toybrota · « **Reply #97 on:** Oct 02, 2017, 10:37:15 AM »

I'll have to see what the junk yard has, I assume the V6 rad has better cooling.... Right? Only makes sense. I know there's no such thing as a dumb question but that one felt dumb.

There's always 4Runners at my local pick n pull.

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toyodaaddict · « **Reply #98 on:** Oct 02, 2017, 10:41:58 AM »

Quote from: Toybrota on Oct 02, 2017, 09:32:13 AM

I'll look into that, I might try the plumbing solder fix. My heater does work now! Works pretty darn good too

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I have fixed a couple with solder and it holds up fine. I think it was just 50/50 tin/lead solder? I use mapp gas, I burned a hole in one with an oxy acetylene torch one time. make sure to get it clean, clean, clean.

Toybrota · « **Reply #99 on:** Oct 02, 2017, 10:42:32 AM »

There's a few 90's 4Runner near me. I'd really like a new one, because with my luck in pick n pull, I'd put it in, and find out it leaks...

Maybe I'll try the solder thing first, if that doesn't work then I'll get a junk one.

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300k · « **Reply #100 on:** Oct 02, 2017, 10:45:36 AM »

Quote from: Toybrota on Oct 02, 2017, 10:37:15 AM

I'll have to see what the junk yard has, I assume the V6 rad has better cooling.... Right?

Its a junkyard upgrade to a 3 core instead of a 2 core. It depends on your climate. If youre in the desert or a mildly warm place with a lot of hills, V6 all the way. If it gets real cold, your heater might not be as warm.

Toybrota · « **Reply #101 on:** Oct 02, 2017, 10:47:03 AM »

Quote from: 300k on Oct 02, 2017, 10:45:36 AM

Its a junkyard upgrade to a 3 core instead of a 2 core. It depends on your climate. If youre in the desert or a mildly warm place with a lot of hills, V6 all the way. If it gets real cold, your heater might not be as warm.

I live in Salt Lake, and it's getting pretty cold. I'll just stick to the stock one. If I can't fix it, I'll just get a new one.

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Toybrota · « **Reply #102 on:** Oct 03, 2017, 10:07:38 AM »

So I got a great build idea while I was in the shower (best ideas come to me this way)

Hear me out. I wanna take a Toyota one ton full float dually axle, and put it under my truck, and put 5.29's with 33X10.5s. Dually 33's

Why you may ask? Because doesn't it seem kinda bad ass? Low gearing with those tires, could actually pull stuff. And a flat bed.

Anyways, just a dumb idea I had. Thought it would be sick.

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Lewis Hein · « **Reply #103 on:** Oct 03, 2017, 10:25:56 AM »

I say, do it. But I also say, think long and hard before doing it with a G52 in your truck.

By all I hear, the G52 was almost the second weakest transmission Toyota ever put in a truck. At least, I'd put a W56 in there before getting too crazy with what I pulled. Better yet, find a R150F/R151F and use a 22RTE bell housing to bolt it up to your motor.

This is purely my opinion based on things I have read. Perhaps somebody with actual experience of Toyota transmission strengths would like to weigh in?

Lewis

Toybrota · « **Reply #104 on:** Oct 03, 2017, 10:27:26 AM »

Quote from: Lewis Hein on Oct 03, 2017, 10:25:56 AM

I say, do it. But I also say, think long and hard before doing it with a G52 in your truck.

By all I hear, the G52 was almost the second weakest transmission Toyota ever put in a truck. At least, I'd put a W56 in there before getting too crazy with what I pulled. Better yet, find a R150F/R151F and use a 22RTE bell housing to bolt it up to your motor.

This is purely my opinion based on things I have read. Perhaps somebody with actual experience of Toyota transmission strengths would like to weigh in?

Lewis

Exactly, the G52 is weak. I'm on my second one.

It's purely an idea at the moment, I think it would be overkill and awesome.

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Toybrota · « **Reply #105 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 10:33:41 AM »

Anyone wanna help me identify this noise? It's so weird. Sorry for the noisy valves. I gave up caring with the damn aluminum rockers.

https://youtu.be/dTi8Ir_HwGQ

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:)bestgen4runner · « **Reply #106 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 10:39:28 AM »

Take the belt off and see if the noise is still there. I think it could be the upper idler bearing.
after the belt is off spin everything with your hand and see if you can make out any noise.

EASYRYDERDANGER · « **Reply #107 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 10:41:40 AM »

Quote from: :)bestgen4runner on Oct 10, 2017, 10:39:28 AM

Take the belt off and see if the noise is still there. I think it could be the upper idler bearing.
after the belt is off spin everything with your hand and see if you can make out any noise.

2nd this

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Toybrota · « **Reply #108 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 10:55:31 AM »

Quote from: :)bestgen4runner on Oct 10, 2017, 10:39:28 AM

Take the belt off and see if the noise is still there. I think it could be the upper idler bearing.
after the belt is off spin everything with your hand and see if you can make out any noise.

Did that, took off the power steering belt. Noise persists.

Removed the water pump and alternator belt (only ran for 15 seconds) noise goes away.

Water pump spins freely as it should. Alternator on the other hand, is obviously making the noise. I just replaced it too. Parts store stuff is garbage.

It's been making noises since I put it in, but it's been getting worse. Maybe a few shots of WD40 into it might displace any water or whatever.

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EASYRYDERDANGER · « **Reply #109 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 10:57:58 AM »

Quote from: Toybrota on Oct 10, 2017, 10:55:31 AM

Did that, took off the power steering belt. Noise persists.

Removed the water pump and alternator belt (only ran for 15 seconds) noise goes away.

Water pump spins freely as it should. Alternator on the other hand, is obviously making the noise. I just replaced it too. Parts store stuff is garbage.

It's been making noises since I put it in, but it's been getting worse. Maybe a few shots of WD40 into it might displace any water or whatever.

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Was belt on too tight?

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:)bestgen4runner · « **Reply #110 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 10:59:18 AM »

Try compressed air and blowing it into the Alt. Don't put WD in there.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #111 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 11:00:14 AM »

I doubt its a moisture issue. What your dealing with more than likely is cheap bearingsfrom the parts house cheapo rebuild.

Toybrota · « **Reply #112 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 11:07:28 AM »

Quote from: redneckcustoms13 on Oct 10, 2017, 11:00:14 AM

I doubt its a moisture issue. What your dealing with more than likely is cheap bearingsfrom the parts house cheapo rebuild.

Exactly what I'm thinking. The belt is on looser than when I took it off, still has good play. I'd kill for a denso alternator. But the money on that....

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Lewis Hein · « **Reply #113 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 11:12:40 AM »

Quote from: Toybrota on Oct 10, 2017, 11:07:28 AM

Exactly what I'm thinking. The belt is on looser than when I took it off, still has good play. I'd kill for a denso alternator. But the money on that....

Try eBay. I got a used Denso alternator for $30 there... New would be better, but I bet a good used Denso would outlast a parts store reman unit.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #114 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 11:22:35 AM »

Have any u pull it yards around? I have had my factory densos rebuilt at a local shop and requested timken bearings be installed.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #115 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 11:24:48 AM »

Check with this guy.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=102455.0

Toybrota · « **Reply #116 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 11:29:37 AM »

Quote from: redneckcustoms13 on Oct 10, 2017, 11:24:48 AM

Check with this guy.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=102455.0

Alrighty will do, I got side tracked with a coolant hose leak. I definitely want a nice alternator when I build my motor.

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Toybrota · « **Reply #117 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 12:31:40 PM »

Quote from: EASYRYDERDANGER on Oct 10, 2017, 10:57:58 AM

Was belt on too tight?

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Don't think so, still makes noise with it tight and loose.

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Toybrota · « **Reply #118 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 12:35:05 PM »

Okay, side tracked with a more important issue.

The water outlet on the timing cover that is for the heater hose leaks, I did the timing chain and cover about 10K miles ago, in fact, a bolt was MISSING from the outlet pipe.

Walking right now to the auto parts store (walk of shame...) To get some silicone sealer and a gasket kit for the timing cover. The thing is, the outlet shares the gasket with the timing cover gasket on the right side, I'm not tearing the timing cover off, so I plan to cut that section of gasket out and replace it with a new cut section with silicone smeared on both sides. What do you think?

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Toybrota · « **Reply #119 on:** Oct 10, 2017, 12:57:24 PM »

Hopefully I can get this thing back in service in a couple hours.

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