Author Topic: ToyBrota's 85 Xtracab Build up. (Read 71700 times)

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #60 on:** Sep 26, 2017, 12:57:43 PM »

We did all kinds of silly stuff to eachave other in highschool. Pull the distributor cap, set the rotor on the dash and watch them figure out where it goes. Put the rear axle up on blocks just high enough to keep the wheels off the ground, put large zip ties on the driveshaft... the list could go for days. Nothing to actually ever hurt anything just funny.

mudmaster · « **Reply #61 on:** Sep 26, 2017, 01:44:24 PM »

zip ties around the d-shaft

Toybrota · « **Reply #62 on:** Sep 26, 2017, 01:46:04 PM »

I'll do something. He is a good friend of mine so it can be extreme. I'm just thinking unbolting the driveshaft completely and hiding it.

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300k · « **Reply #63 on:** Sep 26, 2017, 01:54:57 PM »

Just make sure its not a 4wd lol. I think LCE sells an adapter to fill tires with water?

Toybrota · « **Reply #64 on:** Sep 26, 2017, 08:06:46 PM »

Aside from all the crap, I'm just gonna be an adult and not worry about what my stupid friends do. I'm the one with a winch. We live in Utah. Winter is coming, it's supposed to be a big one... So they will envy my winch.

Speaking of winter, my heater sucks, like it's really bad. So I'm gonna be flushing it this week, back flushing the heater core. It's gonna be a pain, Because it's getting cold.

Hopefully my discount at work is worth it for Toyota Red coolant, because that's what I'm wanting to use.

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redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #65 on:** Sep 27, 2017, 09:39:29 AM »

I have had luck disconnecting the heater core lines, blowing the coolant out with compressed air and mixing up some water/alumibrite and filling the heater core slowly with it. Let it sit a few minuyes and flush with water hose.

Toybrota · « **Reply #66 on:** Sep 27, 2017, 10:05:35 AM »

Quote from: redneckcustoms13 on Sep 27, 2017, 09:39:29 AM

I have had luck disconnecting the heater core lines, blowing the coolant out with compressed air and mixing up some water/alumibrite and filling the heater core slowly with it. Let it sit a few minuyes and flush with water hose.

I was thinking about something like that, I know you gotta be gentle with it. I was gonna drain and fill with distilled water and that flush stuff and go from there afterwards

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THK Matt · « **Reply #67 on:** Sep 27, 2017, 10:54:29 AM »

Quote from: redneckcustoms13 on Sep 27, 2017, 09:39:29 AM

I have had luck disconnecting the heater core lines, blowing the coolant out with compressed air and mixing up some water/alumibrite and filling the heater core slowly with it. Let it sit a few minuyes and flush with water hose.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #68 on:** Sep 27, 2017, 03:05:50 PM »

When the heater core gets clogged with junk. Clean it with alumibrite. It works very well.

Toybrota · « **Reply #69 on:** Sep 28, 2017, 11:07:33 AM »

Picked up a free bottle of this stuff, hopefully it does stuff.

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EASYRYDERDANGER · « **Reply #70 on:** Sep 28, 2017, 09:40:11 PM »

Double check your heater control valve is fully moving along with the cable.

Toybrota · « **Reply #71 on:** Sep 28, 2017, 09:42:09 PM »

Quote from: EASYRYDERDANGER on Sep 28, 2017, 09:40:11 PM

Double check your heater control valve is fully moving along with the cable.

Cable snapped but is easily operated by hand. It works fine.

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EASYRYDERDANGER · « **Reply #72 on:** Sep 28, 2017, 09:45:58 PM »

Quote from: Toybrota on Sep 28, 2017, 09:42:09 PM

Cable snapped but is easily operated by hand. It works fine.

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Nice! That cable is still available via the dealer!

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Toybrota · « **Reply #73 on:** Sep 29, 2017, 01:02:53 AM »

Quote from: EASYRYDERDANGER on Sep 28, 2017, 09:45:58 PM

Nice! That cable is still available via the dealer!

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I've got one! Funny story, I ordered the cable the first time and I got an empty box. How great.

I'm just to lazy to tear the dash apart.

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EASYRYDERDANGER · « **Reply #74 on:** Sep 29, 2017, 06:07:29 AM »

Quote from: Toybrota on Sep 29, 2017, 01:02:53 AM

I've got one! Funny story, I ordered the cable the first time and I got an empty box. How great.

I'm just to lazy to tear the dash apart.

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pop the control head cover/face plate off, that's the piece that has all the symbols for mode selection and fan speed ect. You may want to order a new one of those up too as they very fragile, dealership has those available still too! Then you can see the Phillip screws that hold the HVAC control to the dash. Once they are off it can be pulled out enough to see the cable linkages. From there I usually build a ship in a bottle

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300k · « **Reply #75 on:** Sep 29, 2017, 06:34:32 AM »

Quote from: EASYRYDERDANGER on Sep 29, 2017, 06:07:29 AM

pop the control head cover/face plate off, that's the piece that has all the symbols for mode selection and fan speed ect. You may want to order a new one of those up too as they very fragile, dealership has those available still too! Then you can see the Phillip screws that hold the HVAC control to the dash. Once they are off it can be pulled out enough to see the cable linkages. From there I usually build a ship in a bottle

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that really needs to happen on mine. the controls are all frozen up and I snapped some of the internal linkages trying to force it. is this an easy deal? it will decide if I run AC on my new motor or not. PM me so I don't thread jack lol

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #76 on:** Sep 29, 2017, 07:19:31 AM »

The trick with the HVAC "name plate" is to stick your key in one of the slots in the middle, insert it until you get to a skinny part on the key, then turn it 90 degrees and pull kind of quickly and it will yank the HVAC control plate right off with no broken tabs.

Toybrota · « **Reply #77 on:** Sep 29, 2017, 08:12:10 AM »

Quote from: EASYRYDERDANGER on Sep 29, 2017, 06:07:29 AM

pop the control head cover/face plate off, that's the piece that has all the symbols for mode selection and fan speed ect. You may want to order a new one of those up too as they very fragile, dealership has those available still too! Then you can see the Phillip screws that hold the HVAC control to the dash. Once they are off it can be pulled out enough to see the cable linkages. From there I usually build a ship in a bottle

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I had to pull my whole dash apart. Not doing that again right now.... The heat will still work, the heater valve will still stay open.

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Toybrota · « **Reply #78 on:** Sep 29, 2017, 08:19:16 AM »

Quote from: EASYRYDERDANGER on Sep 29, 2017, 06:07:29 AM

pop the control head cover/face plate off, that's the piece that has all the symbols for mode selection and fan speed ect. You may want to order a new one of those up too as they very fragile, dealership has those available still too! Then you can see the Phillip screws that hold the HVAC control to the dash. Once they are off it can be pulled out enough to see the cable linkages. From there I usually build a ship in a bottle

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I remember having a very difficult time getting anything out, I just took the whole dash apart which was not a smart idea. If I can find a way to get it I will.

The whole idea right now is to flush the system and get my heat working again.

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THK Matt · « **Reply #79 on:** Sep 29, 2017, 09:21:56 AM »

once it comes off, taking it off is easy. i usually removed the AC button then start pulling from the AC "hole" and it always pops off in one unbroken piece.

Toybrota · « **Reply #80 on:** Sep 30, 2017, 03:27:47 PM »

Went ahead and got coolant for my flush tomorrow. I bought 3 gallons of the pre mixed Toyota pink stuff.
Cost me like $45! I love employee discount.

I'm replacing the thermostat and o ring too, so I don't have to for awhile.

I've heard about the aluminum cleaner, I might have to get some. I'll have to see for sure how much gunk is in there, I'm gonna flush the core for sure, and use anything I need to.

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Toybrota · « **Reply #81 on:** Sep 30, 2017, 03:28:17 PM »

Quote from: Toybrota on Sep 30, 2017, 03:27:47 PM

Went ahead and got coolant for my flush tomorrow. I bought 3 gallons of the pre mixed Toyota pink stuff.
Cost me like $45! I love employee discount.

I'm replacing the thermostat and o ring too, so I don't have to for awhile.

I've heard about the aluminum cleaner, I might have to get some. I'll have to see for sure how much gunk is in there, I'm gonna flush the core for sure, and use anything I need to.

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Here it is.

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EASYRYDERDANGER · « **Reply #82 on:** Sep 30, 2017, 04:08:50 PM »

Quote from: Toybrota on Sep 30, 2017, 03:28:17 PM

Here it is.

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Is there a benefit of having pink over red?

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Toybrota · « **Reply #83 on:** Sep 30, 2017, 04:15:12 PM »

Quote from: EASYRYDERDANGER on Sep 30, 2017, 04:08:50 PM

Is there a benefit of having pink over red?

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No idea, I know I needed coolant and figured I might as well just get it at work. It says it works with everything but the Scion FRS so it'll probably be fine.

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EASYRYDERDANGER · « **Reply #84 on:** Sep 30, 2017, 04:16:20 PM »

Quote from: Toybrota on Sep 30, 2017, 04:15:12 PM

No idea, I know I needed coolant and figured I might as well just get it at work. It says it works with everything but the Scion FRS so it'll probably be fine.

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Scion probably has Subaru coolant in it

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Toybrota · « **Reply #85 on:** Oct 01, 2017, 11:27:35 AM »

Started the flush today, started with the free Valvoline cleaner I got from work.

You are supposed to add it straight to the coolant, so I drained a bit and added all of it.

Then I went and drove around and made sure it went through.

The flush kit I got from Prestone includes this T you are supposed to splice into the heater lines, I don't wanna do that as I really don't wanna cut my heater hoses up. So now I'm on my way to home Depot to get some hose, so I can flush the core itself.

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Toybrota · « **Reply #86 on:** Oct 01, 2017, 12:51:54 PM »

Got done back flushing the heater core, got some garbage out of it! Now time for the Prestone flush and distilled water round 1.

Which also I forgot my rad supports are broken on one side. JB weld time....

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Lewis Hein · « **Reply #87 on:** Oct 01, 2017, 04:58:48 PM »

Quote from: Toybrota on Oct 01, 2017, 12:51:54 PM

Which also I forgot my rad supports are broken on one side. JB weld time....

It's been tried. With, I might add, less than stunning success: The radiator on my truck is JB-welded to the bracket on one side. The JB-weld was broken long before I got it.

That said, I've seen many things fixed with JB-weld, and It may stick better on your radiator than it did on mine. Good luck!

toyodaaddict · « **Reply #88 on:** Oct 01, 2017, 05:45:12 PM »

A torch and solder will fix that mounting bracket up good as new.

Toybrota · « **Reply #89 on:** Oct 01, 2017, 06:11:27 PM »

Quote from: toyodaaddict on Oct 01, 2017, 05:45:12 PM

A torch and solder will fix that mounting bracket up good as new.

Huh, really? I got the torch. Just plumbing solder?

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