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Unfortunately IFS is not designed for flex. It is designed for comfort on the road. However low-profile bump stops may help. If you really wanted to you could do ball joint spacers, however i would not recommend this, they are not safe. Be aware as well trying to get more flex out of your IFS system, if you droop too much you will tear CV boots. You may want to look into some IFS lift kits. More clearance= more room to flex. Really Straight Axle Swap is the way to go if your wheeling often. If your fond of IFS and against SAS you can look into some long arm kits possibly. hope this helps
Get rid of the junk links in the rear and go to leaf springs!!
Link suspensions aren't junk, but STOCK link suspensions are.. Professionals run link setups. So is there any way to upgrade the rear link suspension to gain more flex? I am aware of the other routes I could go (leaf spring, 4-link, etc..). I just want to know if anyone has built up the rear suspension on these rigs.
The stock rear suspension on runners is junk!! There is nothing good about it and to modify it is not worth your time and effort. The best thing you can do with it is to cut it all off and start new. I know all about custom link suspension and how good it is and how good it works if done right. There are good and bad examples of link kits out there you can buy or you can make your own. I suggested the leaf spring set-up because it is easy to do compared to links and a heck of a lot cheaper and a good starting point, especially for someone without a lot of fabrication skills.Here is a good example of links that work. A lot of time , effort and design work went in to this set-up and it works. I know because I have been in it doing 90-100 mph at the Hammers. Take some time and read over this thread on BB.http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-tacoma/609488-my-new-trail-street-rig-build-97-4runner.htmlI am not some person that just started working on mechanical things, I started when I was 8 years old and just turned 72 this year. In my life I have built bicycles, go-carts, street cars, drag cars, motorcycles and a lot of other stuff.
All pro is having a sale on there leaf springs right now. For the rear you cannot beat there leafs. They have a lot of flex and ride very smooth. Decide what size tire you want. I would not do the leaf swap in the rear until you get the sas done. Just my opinion thoSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This may not be the greatest idea, but try removing the shocks out of the rear and see how much more you could flex if you replaced them with longer ones? You may have to relocate the shock tabs, but it may be worth an inspection...As for your IFS... I'd keep rocking that and save up for a SAS kit and a welder.
We ran the Old Man Emu stuff on a '95 4runner my wife had. It wasn't a flexy monster or anything but it rode excellent and wheeled way better than stock. I also ran the BJ spacers on a truck for a couple years and had no problems whatsoever. I made some new upper shock mounts for longer shocks, used low profile bump stops and ended up with a good 8" of travel. Quite an improvement over stock.Try to find or make an idler arm gusset.
.........If you really wanted to you could do ball joint spacers, however i would not recommend this, they are not safe............
92 4Runner. Stock link suspension. Are there any modifications I can do to get more flex? besides taking off the sway bar
.............I have either 2" (I think) BJ spacers on the front now, and the torsion bars are cranked like a pregnant dog.
I have heard of people using the fj springs to lift their trucks or eliminate the ass-sag.. not sure if that would do the job but I could always try
Gotta figure out how to get my tires to stop rubbing now, I have 35x12.5's and they rub when I'm at full lock. I cut the fender a good bit but it still rubs, maybe lowering the torsion bars a little will push the tires out some, and give me the little bit of clearance I need. Other than that, I will just havde to start cutting
For the body lift, wouldn't I have to add some length to my steering column?
Depends on how much BL you do, fan shroud will have to be moved down and you may need a longer soft clutch hose!!
You have some good information but a lot of misinformation as well. Ifs lift kits do nothing but drop the diff. 4" allowing for larger tires which gives ground clearance, the geometry is the same as stock.Id like to hear why you feel bj spacers are unsafe. I ran bj spacers with sway away torsion bars on my daily driver for over 20k miles and havent killed a bus full of nuns holding orphaned babys yet. With a winch and stout plate bumper i got about 3" of lift and always got compliments on how well the truck handled. I drove highways, winding mountain roads and offroad with out any issues. The geometry is changed and i will say that tires wear uneven, but it is a decent option for a budget lift. I dont think rodger brown would sell them if they where unsafe http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BallJointSpacer.shtml
Unfortunately IFS is not designed for flex.so ultra 4 ifs cars are built for the road? Limit straps are for show? It is designed for comfort on the road. have you ever seen a h1? Or ridden in one? Ever done 60mph in a capable ifs rig in the sand or dirt?However low-profile bump stops may help. If you really wanted to you could do ball joint spacers, however i would not recommend this, they are not safe. Be aware as well trying to get more flex out of your IFS system, if you droop too much you will tear CV boots. You may want to look into some IFS lift kits. Ifs liftkits???More clearance= more room to flex. Really Straight Axle Swap is the way to go if your wheeling often. If your fond of IFS and against SAS you can look into some long arm kits possibly. ???long arm kits???sounds like two different terms to me I don't and most people who know better don't interchange words or terms like that I bet you a 10 dollars to the trail of your choice Google agrees with meQuote from: trevorg6 on May 09, 2017, 02:56:28 PMLet me explain so there is no confusion or possible misinformation in your reading of it. Yes some IFS lift kits just drop the diff, others however do change the geometry (such as a long arm kit which i specifically mentioned). see above As far as BJ spacers, i'm glad you haven't killed anyone (thanks for taking it to the extreme), i could go extreme as well and say i could run a ratchet strap to hold my control arm and drive it for 500 miles and have no incident, that doesn't make it safe. I gave a real world example with a bit of joking exaggeration, you are making up and touting it as fact big difference... Sorry if I offended you Putting something between the ball joint and control arm is adding a part in a high strain area that can break, and in a critical spot that would make you lose total control of the vehicle if it did break. huh? so modifying parts from the factory design is bad? from your replys I imagine you are too young to remember when folks flipped the ball on the j arm to make more "clearance = flex" or welded on the stock steering to make their own components.here let me take you waaay back http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=33240.0good thing marlin never listened to people like you Plus they add lots of stress onto the ball joints them selves and can wear the ball joint out faster than most people realize. Driving around with worn out and weakened ball joints also not safe. I'll somewhat agree with you here, but I'd be more concerned with idler arms having actualy removed and replaced both. Larger tires (and all the places they take you) wear out components period And if you see his reply to my post he was looking for ideas for the rear. I havnt been around for a bit so I didn't see his reply, but A for effort in the weak closing argument category. hope this helps
Let me explain so there is no confusion or possible misinformation in your reading of it. Yes some IFS lift kits just drop the diff, others however do change the geometry (such as a long arm kit which i specifically mentioned). see above As far as BJ spacers, i'm glad you haven't killed anyone (thanks for taking it to the extreme), i could go extreme as well and say i could run a ratchet strap to hold my control arm and drive it for 500 miles and have no incident, that doesn't make it safe. I gave a real world example with a bit of joking exaggeration, you are making up and touting it as fact big difference... Sorry if I offended you Putting something between the ball joint and control arm is adding a part in a high strain area that can break, and in a critical spot that would make you lose total control of the vehicle if it did break. huh? so modifying parts from the factory design is bad? from your replys I imagine you are too young to remember when folks flipped the ball on the j arm to make more "clearance = flex" or welded on the stock steering to make their own components.here let me take you waaay back http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=33240.0good thing marlin never listened to people like you Plus they add lots of stress onto the ball joints them selves and can wear the ball joint out faster than most people realize. Driving around with worn out and weakened ball joints also not safe. I'll somewhat agree with you here, but I'd be more concerned with idler arms having actualy removed and replaced both. Larger tires (and all the places they take you) wear out components period And if you see his reply to my post he was looking for ideas for the rear. I havnt been around for a bit so I didn't see his reply, but A for effort in the weak closing argument category.
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