Author Topic: #turdburglar  (Read 19947 times)

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seebrookmeyer

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #30 on: Aug 31, 2020, 11:53:48 AM »
Rather than deal with trimming away the existing spring hanger and cleaning up what was there from the previous bumper, decided it would be best to just lop the front 16" of the stock frame off. This also gets the frame about 2" higher than stock and should net me some more favorable up travel numbers. I am planning to push the front axle forward a few more inches than what was there before which should get the 39's out of the way of the firewall. Next up is to finish welding and plating the frame rails and get the motor set back in place to start mocking up motor mounts.




seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #31 on: Nov 09, 2020, 09:55:21 AM »
continuing to crawl along... 
Got the axle back from Rear End Specialities last week. ARB and 5.38's are set up and installed. Installed the shafts and hydro assist ram to verify clearances for steering. Need to tack the truss back in place but otherwise the axle is ready to get mocked up under the truck. 

Fit up the frame plates for the outside and bottom of the frame rails. These plates came from 4WU but needed a bit of love to make them fit and tie in with the new section of frame. got the motor and transmission back in position and ready for mounts to be fabricated. Once I have a landing spot for the frame side motor mounts, I will mock up some additional fish plates for the top and inside frame rails where the 2x3 frame mates to the existing frame.






seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #32 on: Nov 23, 2020, 08:00:55 AM »
Motor and transmission are back in. I don't love the mounts that came with the FROR T case crossmember. There is a fairly large span between the motor mounts and the T crossmember so once the links are in I may try to come up with another crossmember that can tie into the front side of the skid. that being said, I'm not the first person to run this crossmember so it will probably work just fine. Pretty happy with how the motor mounts came out and should be plenty strong enough for that powerful 22re...






Gnarly4X

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #33 on: Nov 24, 2020, 04:36:09 AM »
When read and see these posts and nice photos I’m somewhat envious of the skill, talent, tools, time and money that goes into that type of fabrication.  It really does look awesome!

However, it looks structurally overkill and very heavy to me. :disturbed:

I 4-wheeled very actively (2 to 4 weekends a month) for almost 20 years. I wheeled some the hardest rockcrawling trails and challenging terrains in California, Utah, New Mexico, Arizona and Sonora Mexico.

My old pickup was mostly stock: 3200 lbs. 1985 Toyota pickup 22R Standard Cab, straight axle, Marlin Crawler t-case, 5-speed, 4” lift, Detroit locker rear and Lock Right in the front, 4:10 R&Ps, and 33” muds.

I only broke about 4 times as I remember – a J-arm on Pritchett Canyon (my fault – I backed up with wheel cranked too hard – my spare was on in less than 20 minutes), and a rear leaf spring (I had a repair clamp on in 10 minutes).  I tore the rear diff drain plug on the Dusy Irshim (it was welded up in about 15 minutes by Ray Currie).  And, the driver's side motor mount broke in Moab on the Moab Rim (I had a piece a chain and bolted it on in about 15 minutes).  I never punctured a tire and had only minor to moderate body damage.  After terrorizing the rocks on trails on weekends, I drove it back and forth to work 5 days a week.

I guess I could say I was really lucky. :dunno:

Gnarls. :blah:




« Last Edit: Nov 24, 2020, 04:59:54 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~16,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #34 on: Nov 26, 2020, 06:48:24 AM »
However, it looks structurally overkill and very heavy to me. :disturbed:

I can promise you it doesn’t just look heavy... it is!

seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #35 on: Dec 03, 2020, 10:20:49 AM »
got the axle under the truck with the 39's to begin figuring out where its going to live. currently set with a 120" wheelbase (previously 118") and about 5 1/2" of available up travel. Should be a fun time packaging everything in there.






seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #36 on: Dec 14, 2020, 07:33:43 AM »
Frame side panhard bar mount is tac'd in with an EMT panhard hard for the time being. making some progress on setting bump stop locations, driver side is integrated with the panhard mount. Pushed that assembly back as far as possible in an attempt to make some more room for the steering box and pitman arm. Drag link is going to be a chore to stuff in there and will probably need to clearance the frame to make it fit (I know I should just go full hydro). Need to get the passenger side bump mocked up and start cycling and checking clearances. Upper link mount has a cozy home between the frame rail and the oil pan. A little concerned that it may hit either of those when articulating so going to need to spend some time figuring those clearances out.





seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #37 on: Dec 16, 2020, 07:40:11 AM »
Bumps are set. Drag link is just laying in there, at full bump it "fits". It will come down a bit on the driver side once it is actually set in place as its currently sitting on top of the pitman arm. End of the day I will likely need to notch the frame to make room.  need to spend some time getting the steering box in it's new home and see where all the components will actually land. I have both a flat and drop pitman arm so I have some different options. 

The towers I purchased with the 4WU kit are not going to work. Since I pushed the axle forward from the intended location with this kit they are pretty much in the way of everything, steering, bumps, panhard mount, you name it, it interferes with it. I order some 1.5" hoops from RuffStuff which should be a much cleaner solution. So if anyone wants some unwelded cobra towers from 4WU let me know. 




seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #38 on: Jan 14, 2021, 01:40:55 PM »
Full hydro components should arrive from PSC tomorrow. If someone is looking for a 8" stroke PSC hydro assist ram and a tapped toyota IFS steering box let me know. Passenger side shock hoop is mocked up. Need to clearance the fender well some more but overall I'm pretty happy with the "adjustable" shock hoop. Made things pretty easy to get set up in a happy place. Will build an engine crossover brace to support the top of the mounts and provide me with a location to mount the resi's on. Picking up the cab over camper this weekend so i will likely be throughly distracted for a bit.




seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #39 on: Jan 27, 2021, 12:04:02 PM »
Shock hoops are tacked in place and coilovers are mocked up. I am pretty happy with first pass at cycling everything. All clear on the firewall side but needs a fair amount of trimming on the core support below the headlights and need to double check steering angle and see what it is. it seems to have significantly more degrees of steering than i would have expected out of non clearance shafts. I am hoping to get 40-42* out of it. Also, very happy to be going the full hydro route. Zero percent chance a drag link would have cleared the frame without significant notching. Single ended ram mount on the axle side should end up being nicely incorporated to the driver side lower link mount. hoping to get that built this weekend. Building the engine crossover brace tonight to add some strength to the upper shock mounts





DutchVDub

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #40 on: Jan 27, 2021, 01:41:21 PM »
Looking good

seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #41 on: Jan 28, 2021, 10:58:32 AM »
Engine crossover brace is in with the reservoirs zipped tied for mock up. hood still closes so i am pretty happy with that. i could have added about an inch in between bends and gotten it to sit a little closer to the engine but the throttle assembly is pretty tight to the brace as is. havent bent much tube in about a year so i was a bit rusty on figuring out all my measurements and notches. first time using the air/hydraulic ram with my JD2 and i should have bought that about 3 years ago.
Ram mount off the link mount is next.






Gnarly4X

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #42 on: Jan 28, 2021, 06:14:47 PM »
Geezz... I've been out of the serious rockcrawling scene since I totaled my 85 shortbed in 2002. :sad2:

What's all that :pokinit: going to do? :dunno:

Gnarls. :inthedark:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~16,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #43 on: Jan 29, 2021, 10:41:00 AM »
Ram is mocked up in about the only place that it could live. The link mount was conveniently radius'd allowing the ram to sit pretty tight to the brackets while still having clearing through the entire throw of the steering even if the tie rod ends up floping a bit in the heims. Thinking that making some sort of skid/ tube structure to protect my nice shiny ram would be a good idea. The axle isnt heavy enough yet so i might as well throw some more tube at it.

Cycled through full bump to full droop, articulating either side. with the the driver side at full bump and passenger side at full drop i have about 1/4" of clearance between the coil and the bump stop mount on the passenger side. going to try to move the lower mount out another 1/4 - 3/8" but its already about as far out as it can go. May just be something that i have to live with. Other than that, I'm really happy with how everything is packaged. Need to modify the orbital mount a bit but outside of that, nearly all the big ticket items are accounted for. Lots of plumbing and wiring to sort out. I want to get the hydraulic lines made up and cycle everything one last time before tearing everything back down to finish weld and paint. I do need to figure out a bumper/ winch mount but that is not really affecting any of the suspension components.




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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #44 on: Jan 29, 2021, 09:58:48 PM »
Nice fabrication work. :beerchug:
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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #45 on: Jan 30, 2021, 12:13:22 AM »
Figured I should start an actual project thread on my poo pile, the Turdburglar
 

seebrookmeyer....

So here you are 4 years almost to the DAY you started this thread.

I cannot imagine all the time, money, hours and hours in the garage, the number of times you sleeplessly laid in bed thinking of what you are going to do in the garage the next day! :yikes:

The fab work is incredible!  :beerchug: 

The photo documentation is awesome. :yesnod:

It looks like it will terrorize any rock pile!  :willynilly:

You called it a "poo pile" and named it turdburgler...  Now.. what is that heavy turd going to do?  :dunno:

Are you going to go to a W.E.Rock event?... or just keep engineering the "crap" out of it?  :driving:

I hope we get to see that big, now very hot $hit, poo pile do something serious!!  :thumbs:

I'll bet it will make fun of "Butt Crack" in Kingman, AZ!! :biggthumpup:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ld5DLA7ma4U


Gnarls.  :gap:
« Last Edit: Jan 30, 2021, 12:29:44 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~16,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

God Bless Our Troops... Especially Our Snipers. The 2nd defends the 1st
MEMBER: WWP, T2T, VFW, NRA, GOA, SAF, Mammoth Nation, C2 Tactical, Hillsdale College, Humane Society of the U.S. - "We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used to create them." ~ Albert Einstein

seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #46 on: Jan 31, 2021, 08:30:02 AM »
seebrookmeyer....

So here you are 4 years almost to the DAY you started this thread.

I cannot imagine all the time, money, hours and hours in the garage, the number of times you sleeplessly laid in bed thinking of what you are going to do in the garage the next day! :yikes:

The fab work is incredible!  :beerchug: 

The photo documentation is awesome. :yesnod:

It looks like it will terrorize any rock pile!  :willynilly:

You called it a "poo pile" and named it turdburgler...  Now.. what is that heavy turd going to do?  :dunno:

Are you going to go to a W.E.Rock event?... or just keep engineering the "crap" out of it?  :driving:

I hope we get to see that big, now very hot $hit, poo pile do something serious!!  :thumbs:

I'll bet it will make fun of "Butt Crack" in Kingman, AZ!! :biggthumpup:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ld5DLA7ma4U
Gnarls.  :gap:

Geezz... I've been out of the serious rockcrawling scene since I totaled my 85 shortbed in 2002. :sad2:

Thanks? A lot has changed in off road since 2002... take KOH and the Golf carts with 2 feet of travel for example. The level of skill and innovation that is coming out of the off road industry is impressive. Guess we should have all just spent the days picking fly :pokinit: out of pepper instead of improving our rigs and fabrication skills so that we stay relevant with your rigs. I personally love the "project" aspect of a build, its a fun challenge. Once its "done" I'll get out and wheel it til something else breaks or I'll just cut it all up again when i feel the need for another project.

Willard

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #47 on: Jan 31, 2021, 12:52:28 PM »
My single ended ram landed in about the same exact spot as yours lol. It also looks like I trimmed all of the same exact spots on my front support area. Cool rig man. I still need to make a crossover brace for mine. Our hoops look identical, but I have less room with my 3vze  :beer:
90'4runner......lots of goodies.

seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #48 on: Feb 10, 2021, 11:03:53 AM »
Orbital is in place as well as some new body mounts. Tried to mount the ram off the driver steering arm but panhard pretty quickly eliminated all possibilities of that. going to bend up an 1 3/4" tube hoop to protect the ram. Plumbing the hydraulic lines is going to be a bit of pain, in particular making the reservoir the highest point of the system. I pulled the fan off the motor in favor for an electric fan to help free up some space and give me some additional options for plumbing. Need to pick up an electric fan, but im sure i can reference Murphys 14 page thread on fan selection and fan relay wiring for direction in that department.
At this point, this thing is ready to be broken down so that i can finish weld everything (i think...). Im going to pull the motor and trans to in order to give me some room to work and bench weld as much of this as i can. Once its back in place and all the electrical/ fuel connections are made i can get a better sense of where the hydraulic lines can get routed. 

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #49 on: Feb 10, 2021, 12:02:13 PM »
Orbital is in place as well as some new body mounts. Tried to mount the ram off the driver steering arm but panhard pretty quickly eliminated all possibilities of that. going to bend up an 1 3/4" tube hoop to protect the ram. Plumbing the hydraulic lines is going to be a bit of pain, in particular making the reservoir the highest point of the system. I pulled the fan off the motor in favor for an electric fan to help free up some space and give me some additional options for plumbing. Need to pick up an electric fan, but im sure i can reference Murphys 14 page thread on fan selection and fan relay wiring for direction in that department.
At this point, this thing is ready to be broken down so that i can finish weld everything (i think...). Im going to pull the motor and trans to in order to give me some room to work and bench weld as much of this as i can. Once its back in place and all the electrical/ fuel connections are made i can get a better sense of where the hydraulic lines can get routed. 


Tidy work man!
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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #50 on: Feb 11, 2021, 06:35:20 AM »
Orbital is in place as well as some new body mounts. Tried to mount the ram off the driver steering arm but panhard pretty quickly eliminated all possibilities of that. going to bend up an 1 3/4" tube hoop to protect the ram. Plumbing the hydraulic lines is going to be a bit of pain, in particular making the reservoir the highest point of the system. I pulled the fan off the motor in favor for an electric fan to help free up some space and give me some additional options for plumbing. Need to pick up an electric fan, but im sure i can reference Murphys 14 page thread on fan selection and fan relay wiring for direction in that department.
At this point, this thing is ready to be broken down so that i can finish weld everything (i think...). Im going to pull the motor and trans to in order to give me some room to work and bench weld as much of this as i can. Once its back in place and all the electrical/ fuel connections are made i can get a better sense of where the hydraulic lines can get routed. 


Be prepared to tack weld your jam nuts on the tie rod. Because the heims are not in sync the ram movement will loosen them. I tightened mine with a 16" adjustable wrench and a snipe and still came loose. Next option was tacking jam nuts  :driving:
90'4runner......lots of goodies.

seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #51 on: Feb 11, 2021, 09:27:38 AM »
full droop with limit straps set. the lower mount isnt in my favorite spot but is doesnt interfere with anything and it was one of the only places that worked with the double shear mounts i have. It would be nice to have a little adjustability as well so i may pick up some clevis mounts which would give me a few other options for mounting locations but this will suffice for the time being.





seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #52 on: Feb 11, 2021, 09:33:17 AM »
Be prepared to tack weld your jam nuts on the tie rod. Because the heims are not in sync the ram movement will loosen them. I tightened mine with a 16" adjustable wrench and a snipe and still came loose. Next option was tacking jam nuts  :driving:

That is the plan. Was hoping i would be able to cram it in there off the arm but life goes on. Even tried moving the tie rod to the stock position to free up the most forward hole on the ram but the panhard bar wasnt having it.

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #53 on: Feb 11, 2021, 11:42:25 AM »
Be prepared to tack weld your jam nuts on the tie rod. Because the heims are not in sync the ram movement will loosen them. I tightened mine with a 16" adjustable wrench and a snipe and still came loose. Next option was tacking jam nuts  :driving:

dont tack them on. Drill and tap the nut for a 1/16 grub screw that tightens onto thread of the rod end. Alternatively, thread lock and a jam nut.
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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #54 on: Feb 11, 2021, 12:14:56 PM »
dont tack them on. Drill and tap the nut for a 1/16 grub screw that tightens onto thread of the rod end. Alternatively, thread lock and a jam nut.
This will also work, but tacking them is just so much easier  :burnout:. Provides the same end result either way  :thumbs:
90'4runner......lots of goodies.

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #55 on: Feb 11, 2021, 02:13:44 PM »
This will also work, but tacking them is just so much easier  :burnout:. Provides the same end result either way  :thumbs:

Maybe, until you inevitably have to change them out...
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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #56 on: Feb 11, 2021, 03:33:18 PM »
Maybe, until you inevitably have to change them out...
:werd:
90'4runner......lots of goodies.

seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #57 on: Feb 11, 2021, 03:51:54 PM »
dont tack them on. Drill and tap the nut for a 1/16 grub screw that tightens onto thread of the rod end. Alternatively, thread lock and a jam nut.

I hadnt thought of doing that but thats a great idea.

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #58 on: Feb 12, 2021, 10:38:40 AM »
I hadnt thought of doing that but thats a great idea.

If any was worried about the grub screw backing out then drive another in behind it.
LittleSteve: Holding up traffic and giving dubious advice since 2014.

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seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #59 on: Feb 16, 2021, 08:45:55 AM »
Fairly productive weekend. Got the stock toyota steering shaft onto the new column stub shaft. Drilled out the splines of the stock u joint to fit over the 3/4" stub shaft. Ground out a key in the stub shaft to allow for the bolt to pass through and clamp the u joint to the shaft as well as key it to the shaft. Pulled the gas tank to make welding the frame side link mounts a little less stressful. Lots of room for activities under there with the tank gone. leaning towards mounting the tank in the bed and building a baja rack above the tank for lightweight bags and a small cooler. Still able to fit the Pelican cases on either side of so it would be an efficient use of the space. Long term i would like to get an actual fuel cell but need to do some research on running a cell with the stock filler neck (or at least having a means of connecting the stock filler neck for smog checks). 

Electric fan mount is complete. I know its not very shroud like but i have not been running a shroud with the previous fan and have not had any issues with over heating. If I run into some cooling issues, i can work on building an actual shroud and put an actual motor that makes heat aka power in place of that huge 22re. 
 
Pulled the motor, trans and axle out of the truck in preparation for a lot of welding. I'm not a very big fan of the frame side mounts of the Front Range T Case crossmember. the crossmember sits on top of the frame side mounts so the entire transmission has to slide back while staying at the same elevation, which presents clearance issues with the firewall. I am thinking about looping off the frame side mounts and integrating a more traditional bushing style mount with horizontal mounting bolts instead of the current vertical configuration. I dont intend to being pulling the transmission very often, but it seems significantly easier to do now instead of later. With that being said, the durometer of the bushings style mount is significantly higher than the current mount. Given that the crossmember mates to the Tcase via the aluminum housing, a more rigid frame side mount could be prone to cracking the housing.... probably pulling a Halper and overthinking it but its seems worth at least considering.