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Index the spark plugs. Not a monster power gain but it works guaranteed.Costs very little other than your time.http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mor-71900?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-moroso&gclid=CKTAm5jm284CFYGAfgod_zgN0g
Some things I’ve learned from owning a Toyota truck since 1986 (14 Toyota vehicles including 4 Toyota trucks).For the 20R, 22R, and 22RE…..Blue printing an engine rebuild for a specific application should be considered carefully. Admittedly, I should have done more research before starting my current 22RE rebuild. The question is, what do you do and why?What RPM range do you want your peak power increase?Are you rockcrawling (low RPM torque), mud thrashing (mid to high RPM torque, Baja racing (high RPM WOT HP), daily driving, pulling a trailer (mid-range RPM freeway speeds). Does the engine/vehicle have to pass EPA testing? Are you budget limited? Are you time constrained? Can you do the work or do you have to pay someone? Should you risk buying a short block, long block, or turn-key?Are reliability, maintenance, and gas mileage issues?As discussed here recently, non-engine differential gear ratios and tire size changes can have a significant impact on transferring the multiplied torque to the tires.Upgrading a previous rebuild (unknown specs) may require a slightly different approach to upgrades for performance gains.Other than major block, head, and component modifications, aftermarket engine management systems, turbo and supercharging, arguably, the typical performance gains from a stock engine are mostly incremental - that added together can make an estimated additional 10 to 30 HP.There are lots of opinions, shared experiences, touted aftermarket products, and backyard mods, but I see very little test data that will back up the performance gains with certified dyno tests – either engine dyno or chassis dyno. So, we mostly rely on our butt dyno, word of mouth, whatever the “experts” tell us, supplier’s recommendations, Internet Bravo Sierra, and our infamous forum discussions.As an example….it seems there is some debate that bolting on a 4-in-1 header and 2 ˝” pipe and turbo muffler may or may not maximize the torque gain or HP at the RPM range you want for a stock 22RE. In fact, you most likely will lose some valuable low end torque from off-idle to 3000 RPMs. TUNING is very critical to getting the most out of these engines, especially the 22RE. Spark plugs, cap and rotor, plug wires, and ignition timing is very important to accurately set and properly maintain. Proper valve lash is also important. Are all the sensors working properly? Pumping high viscosity crank case oil can suck power. As in the Sonny and Cher 1967 Top Ten Hit song “And The Beat Goes On”… “The beat goes on, the beat goes onDrums keep poundingA rhythm to the brainLa de da de de, la de da de da”That's just my worthless opinion.Gnarls.
Adjustable cam gears make a noticeable difference in where your power is and allow you to dial in the cam timing to a kind of sweet spot.
So the idea with these is to place the electrode in the optimum place for igniting the most fuel ? I haven't heard of these before now. Interesting I will do some research and look into this. Thanks
So who makes the most reasonably priced adjustable cam gear?
... don't think the injectors will do anything......
... frees up more hp than installing header n exhaust ....
What are Flame Throwers ?
I just installed a set of the Flame Throwers a month ago after reading posts of power and mileage gains, Also replaced the fuel pump, cap, rotor, wires and iridium plugs. I didn't experience any improvement of either. I contacted the seller and he was happy to do a refund. but I couldn't justify the time and work swapping them back out. They didn't make it any worse.
Sc14 + points delete with, decent coil and plugsJust under your $500
1.) Davez 268 cam2.) motor rebuild@30,000 miles ago 3.) LCE header4.) 2.5 exhaust high flow cat and flow master all mandrel bent5.) Supra AFM 6.) Trail Gear intake7.) intake swapped to cold side of engine battery moved to opposite side.8.) swapped late model straight upper intake with bored throttle body on its way (thanks Ovarock)Also kicking the idea around of buying a new head with oversized valves. Thanks for any input I know it's a 4 cylinder that was never engineered for power but I want to take it to its furthest limit power wise before moving on.
Whoaaa... that means the fan on the engine is sucking some MAJOR power!!...... I don't think the stock fan is that much of a parasitic drain!!Gnarls.
The O/S valves should be your next mechanical upgrade.Port matching the intake and head with the intake gasket is cheap, and will help a little w/air flow. If the "cold air" intake is sucking engine bay air, it will not help with performance, as its ability to draw more air into the engine isnegated by it being heated air. If you have some fab skills, you can isolate the intake and plumb an outside air source to feed the intake, wrapping the intake tubing an intake isolation chamber with DEI "cool tape", will keep the air at outside temp until it reaches the intake manifold. This is what I designed about 18yrs ago for my 3.0On a 95* day at idle the engine bay side was 135*, the intake chamber was 98*.
Hey Aaronm,Based upon your target performance gain: “really want to increase the power available for pulling long grades. I find myself rowing the truck up the hill between 3rd and 4th gear.”Keep in mind that for these 22s, especially the 22R, it will lose about 3 to 4 HP for every 1,000 feet increase in elevation. If you are pulling a grade or two and climb 2,000 higher you’ll drop about 6 or 8 HP.I like your idea to experiment and tweak your engine performance. However, based upon your process of modification to gain incremental power, I would be careful to make sure you understand and monitor the changes. I would make one change or modification at a time.For example, going to a hotter spark plug may or may not gain any power caused by “bumping up the AFM a tooth or two”. Can you read spark plugs? If you are serious about analyzing your modifications, I would suggest you consider installing a good A/F meter and carefully read the spark plugs. I would make sure I have a new O2 sensor and that the knock sensor is working properly. I would make sure the ignition timing is set properly and see that it is advancing correctly under RPM change. If you haven’t already considered it, a 3 row radiator may be a good idea for added cooling capacity and run fresh coolant at 50/50 mix.As you know, you’ll be at the higher end of your RPM range for several minutes when pulling long grades, developing very high combustion chamber and header temperatures. A hotter spark plug may cause serious over-heating, pre-ignition, burn the top of the pistons, or toast the exhaust valves. If your gas is ethanol blended, you can actually go to a colder plug and advance your timing slightly.Since you are into the finer tweaking stages, you can also consider lubricants. Lowering viscosities in your tranny, t-case, and diffs will help lower parasitic drag. I like Redline 75-85 for my diffs, and MTL for my tranny & t-case, and 10-30w Mobil 1 in my crank case.TJMWO…Please keep us updated on what you discover by your changes and modifications.Gnarls.
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