Author Topic: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild  (Read 194890 times)

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emsvitil

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #960 on: Jul 20, 2017, 02:37:26 AM »
Intake tube = tube from throttle body to air cleaner
Ed
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86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

emsvitil

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #961 on: Jul 20, 2017, 02:41:22 AM »
Yes, I think a banjo bolt would troubleshoot the fuel damper.

It's M14x1.5


I didn't like the idea of the banjo bolt either, but for a quick test it should be fine.      Banjo bolts are much cheaper.........


Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #962 on: Jul 20, 2017, 02:44:41 AM »
Intake tube = tube from throttle body to air cleaner

OK, yes, I had to remove that.  :smack:

Gnarls. :gap:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

emsvitil

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #963 on: Jul 20, 2017, 02:52:53 AM »
Oh, the length of the banjo bolt (not including head) would be 30mm   (Since I have the old damper sitting on top the washing machine)
Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #964 on: Jul 20, 2017, 11:32:28 AM »
Oh, the length of the banjo bolt (not including head) would be 30mm   (Since I have the old damper sitting on top the washing machine)

Thank you.  Technical input is always appreciated. :thumbs:

Gnarls. :spin:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #965 on: Oct 15, 2017, 01:59:12 PM »
UPDATE:  10-15-2017  :willynilly:

Admiittedly, I’ve been procrastinating at finishing this rebuild.  I still have the rear diff that is leaking at the pinion flange, the power steering box is leaking, and I need to do the exhaust system – a DT header and 2” exhaust with a new muffler.  And, the AC needs to be recharged after sitting in my garage for almost 4 years.  By the time I’m done, I believe I will have over $6,000 in this complete rebuild.  :yikes:

I pulled the tranny and t-case out this morning.  Took me 3 hours 6 minutes (I’m probably slower than the average) from the time I plugged in the air compressor to the time I got a shower, and sitting back down on the couch with a glass of Black Cherry Kool-Aid.  :gap:

I will remove the bell housing and pull the bad seal - and hopefully have a new input shaft seal by Tuesday, and replace it on Wednesday, and get it back installed.  :thumbs:

Gnarls.  :spin:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

emsvitil

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #966 on: Oct 15, 2017, 04:26:51 PM »
Oh NO.........

You drank the Kool-Aid.


 :yikes:

Ed
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86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #967 on: Oct 15, 2017, 05:52:35 PM »
Oh NO.........

You drank the Kool-Aid.


 :yikes:



Yeah... I'm KA drinker now.  I gave up Jim Beam & Sprite and Bacardi & Cherry Coke 5 years and 3 months ago... saving $85 a month!!  I make a gallon of Kool-Aid for 97 cents.  I use 1/2 cup of Stevia and 1/2 cup of Sugar and 2 packs of Kool-Aid.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

H8PVMNT

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #968 on: Oct 16, 2017, 07:52:27 AM »
Progress!
“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.”
– Steve McQueen

"Except for maybe Seattle."  -H8PVMNT

"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

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andykrow

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #969 on: Oct 18, 2017, 02:09:53 PM »
Yay, back on the build!

Any thoughts on the 261 cam and what your plans are on that end.

I'm at 5k-ish miles on the rebuild and I am loving my setup. I have also driven my buddies rig a few times on big road trips (which is a recent rebuild with 35k miles, DT/open exhaust and a 252 cam) and my truck is just destroying it on all fronts. Better pickup and better mpgs, and quieter valve train. Granted, it is a bit apples to oranges since he is running 33's and 410's, and I am 35s / 529s. I still have to do my first valve adjustment after the rebuild so I am hoping to gain a littler performance there.
85 4runner, 22re, 5spd, Ultimate crawler, Alcan lift that is too high, 35s, ARBs.

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #970 on: Oct 18, 2017, 07:06:24 PM »
Yay, back on the build!

Any thoughts on the 261 cam and what your plans are on that end.

I'm at 5k-ish miles on the rebuild and I am loving my setup. I have also driven my buddies rig a few times on big road trips (which is a recent rebuild with 35k miles, DT/open exhaust and a 252 cam) and my truck is just destroying it on all fronts. Better pickup and better mpgs, and quieter valve train. Granted, it is a bit apples to oranges since he is running 33's and 410's, and I am 35s / 529s. I still have to do my first valve adjustment after the rebuild so I am hoping to gain a littler performance there.

Hey…

Yes, I’m back at it.

Very happy to read that your engine is catz-a$$!!  :beerchug:

I’m concerned that you have NOT adjusted the valve lash before 5,000 miles!!!!!????  :yikes:

I’m not feeling the “power” with this rebuild that I thought I’d feel.  I still have some tuning to do, but it’s feeling sluggish.  Only 200 miles on the break in, but I think it should be more peppy than it feels.  :smack:

I talked to my good friend engine builder and off-road racer today. When I get the tranny back in and the rear diff seal fixed I’m going to let him listen to it and drive it.  :greengrin:

I’ll post up a report.  :D

Gnarls. :spin:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

79coyotefrg

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #971 on: Oct 18, 2017, 07:51:44 PM »
what cam did you end up with?
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #972 on: Oct 19, 2017, 04:06:12 AM »
what cam did you end up with?


Hey 79coyotefrg,

I have not changed the cam that came in the RV head from engbldr - the 261C.

I have a what sounds like a deep tick or light knock that I'm concerned about.  Using my stethoscope and probe, I can hear a deep tick on the rocker cover and top of head when probing.  I don't think that the rockers are making the noise.  The sound is like 1 or 2 cylinder cycles - not like even sounding rocker tick. I think its sounds deeper, maybe a valve.  I don't think the noise is normal.  I don't know where it's coming from.  I need to isolate the noise.  When I get the leaks (input shaft, rear diff, and steering box) fixed and the AC recharged, I plan to drive to Lake Havasu and visit the boys at LCE.

My thought was to simply change the camshaft to see if has anything to do with the noise, because it should be an easy swap without moving the head, right?

At this point, and at 200+ miles on the break-in, I'm very disappointed and frustrated.

If I could turn back time, I would swap in an GM LS 5.3L engine, for less than the $5000+ I now have invested in the 22RE!

Gnarls.


1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

:)bestgen4runner

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #973 on: Oct 19, 2017, 08:35:00 AM »
When it's up and running again I can recommend a trick that might just make your noise go away.
Old 22re trick that I have seen work many times.  :usa:
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #974 on: Oct 19, 2017, 09:26:04 AM »
I’m concerned that you have NOT adjusted the valve lash

Yeah I should really get on that. They never actually tighten over time though, do they? That would be the only thing I am worried about.

Just got done with a brake upgrade (Highly recommended on the SFA trucks!) so I'm not feeling too motivated to do more truck work. But it's easy enough. I'll get on it this weekend.
85 4runner, 22re, 5spd, Ultimate crawler, Alcan lift that is too high, 35s, ARBs.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #975 on: Oct 19, 2017, 03:11:49 PM »
When it's up and running again I can recommend a trick that might just make your noise go away.
Old 22re trick that I have seen work many times.  :usa:

Turn the key counterclockwise?
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #976 on: Oct 19, 2017, 07:10:13 PM »
Hey 79coyotefrg,

I have not changed the cam that came in the RV head from engbldr - the 261C.

I have a what sounds like a deep tick or light knock that I'm concerned about.  Using my stethoscope and probe, I can hear a deep tick on the rocker cover and top of head when probing.  I don't think that the rockers are making the noise.  The sound is like 1 or 2 cylinder cycles - not like even sounding rocker tick. I think its sounds deeper, maybe a valve.  I don't think the noise is normal.  I don't know where it's coming from.  I need to isolate the noise.
pull the valve cover now if you arent busy otherwise and see if any of the rockers feel loose.   it is VERY common for them to loosen up after having run in even 200 miles.


 
Quote
When I get the leaks (input shaft, rear diff, and steering box) fixed and the AC recharged, I plan to drive to Lake Havasu and visit the boys at LCE.

My thought was to simply change the camshaft to see if has anything to do with the noise, because it should be an easy swap without moving the head, right?

At this point, and at 200+ miles on the break-in, I'm very disappointed and frustrated.
you will be okay if you used a MLS head gasket but a graphite gasket may be compromised.  I HIGHLY recommend the LCE cams  at the very least the .440 cam but if you want real power get the .450 or .460 cam
I have to replace my cam I just can't justify using the one i have with the damage it has :rivers:


Quote
If I could turn back time, I would swap in an GM LS 5.3L engine, for less than the $5000+ I now have invested in the 22RE!

Gnarls.



you dont want to do that.  all that extra weight and wiring.  wires are EEVIIILLLL

AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #977 on: Oct 19, 2017, 07:11:42 PM »
Yeah I should really get on that. They never actually tighten over time though, do they? That would be the only thing I am worried about.

Just got done with a brake upgrade (Highly recommended on the SFA trucks!) so I'm not feeling too motivated to do more truck work. But it's easy enough. I'll get on it this weekend.
no they dont tighten but they DO loosen up over even the first 500 miles

AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #978 on: Oct 19, 2017, 07:19:03 PM »
Turn the key counterclockwise?

That trick didn't work!!  :moon:

I tried it about 12 times just to make sure it absolutely would NOT work.  :gap:

Gnarls.  :inthedark:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #979 on: Oct 19, 2017, 07:30:36 PM »
no they dont tighten but they DO loosen up over even the first 500 miles



So theoretically with a new head, valves and seats, if the valve face squishes down into the valve seat, wouldn't that make the valve lash tighter?  :dunno:

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #980 on: Oct 19, 2017, 07:38:45 PM »
1. The valve stem and rocker arm tip getting pounded along with some rubbing will make the lash looser.

2. The rocker arm and cam lobe rubbing together will make the lash looser.


I think 1&2 above would have more effect than the valve face and valve seat make things tighter
Ed
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22RE  W56B
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #981 on: Oct 19, 2017, 07:50:48 PM »
That trick didn't work!!  :moon:

I tried it about 12 times just to make sure it absolutely would NOT work.  :gap:

Gnarls.  :inthedark:

Then I submit that it’s not an engine noise.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #982 on: Oct 19, 2017, 08:23:31 PM »
they currently dont have my cam but this "new" version would probably work well without clearancing the pistons
http://www.lceperformance.com/Stage-2-Camshaft-20R-22R-RE-RET-p/1022036.htm
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #983 on: Oct 20, 2017, 04:36:34 AM »
they currently dont have my cam but this "new" version would probably work well without clearancing the pistons
http://www.lceperformance.com/Stage-2-Camshaft-20R-22R-RE-RET-p/1022036.htm

Hmmmm... well... I don't think that cam will work in a stock 22RE.  At 9.6 degrees of overlap, Mama ECU will throw a fit.

I can see it working in modified 22R.  For the $900+ LCE wants to properly install it... I'd consider another option for power gain.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #984 on: Oct 20, 2017, 04:49:30 AM »
Yay, back on the build!

Any thoughts on the 261 cam and what your plans are on that end.

I'm at 5k-ish miles on the rebuild and I am loving my setup. I have also driven my buddies rig a few times on big road trips (which is a recent rebuild with 35k miles, DT/open exhaust and a 252 cam) and my truck is just destroying it on all fronts. Better pickup and better mpgs, and quieter valve train. Granted, it is a bit apples to oranges since he is running 33's and 410's, and I am 35s / 529s. I still have to do my first valve adjustment after the rebuild so I am hoping to gain a littler performance there.

I don't think your comparison is fair... definitely apples-oranges.  Your gear ratio puts the RPMs way closer to the happy torque numbers the 261C touts.

4.10's and 33's is going to be noticeably sluggish compared to 5.29's and 35's!

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #985 on: Oct 24, 2017, 01:22:53 AM »
Hmmmm... well... I don't think that cam will work in a stock 22RE.  At 9.6 degrees of overlap, Mama ECU will throw a fit.

I can see it working in modified 22R.  For the $900+ LCE wants to properly install it... I'd consider another option for power gain.

Gnarls.

I totally forgot you had efi.
http://www.lceperformance.com/EFI-Pro-Camshaft-22RE-RET-p/1022021.htm
$900  what you smokin??
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #986 on: Oct 24, 2017, 03:23:17 AM »
I totally forgot you had efi.
http://www.lceperformance.com/EFI-Pro-Camshaft-22RE-RET-p/1022021.htm
$900  what you smokin??

Hey 79coyotefrg,

I quit smok'n about 50 years ago.  But, at my age any mistake I make I have any number of excuses!

I got my quick calculations from LCE's site:

Stage 2 Cam - $199.95
Pro Camshaft Kit - $278.00 (highly recommended by LCE)
Rocker Arms - 34.95 x 8 = 279.60 (without the rack - LCE will not warranty the cam without these)
Sales Tax 7.85% =   $59.47                                                                                                                               
Shipping $75.00 (guessimate)
Estimated Total:  $ 892.00 

I rounded it up to $900 in my head.

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Oct 24, 2017, 03:29:17 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #987 on: Oct 24, 2017, 07:09:05 PM »
UPDATE:  October 24, 2017

W-56 1986 transmission input shaft housing.

I thought I’d share this information for those that may be interested.

I realize that the subject of sealants and gasket RTVs appears to be a personal choice based on individual experience.

In the absence of my own personal experience, I tend to go with the “technical experts” and the people who use the products in their businesses.

Permatex Ultra Grey is used by Marlin...

https://www.marlincrawler.com/hardware-tools/chemicals/silicone-ultra-gray

For this application, Permatex Ultra Grey is recommended by the Technical Service Manager/Associate Innovations Manager at Permatex for the gasket and housing plate.  He recommended Permatex Thread Sealant with PTFE for the bolt threads because the bolts/threads are in contact with the gear lube inside the case.

He also said to allow 24 hours before filling the transmission with gear oil to allow the sealants to cure properly.

My research also showed that the specification for Toyota part numbers for a number of sealants that Toyota recommends is covered in the Permatex Ultra Grey specification.

I believe that Toyota’s Orange FIPG sealant RTV is an excellent and logical choice.  However, the availability is limited and about 90% more expensive than the Permatex alternative.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1508894948&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=Permatex+Ultra+Greay

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80631-Thread-Sealant-PTFE/dp/B000BKEBT0

I highly recommend that any time you drop the transmission that you replace the input shaft seal and gasket if it has not been recently replaced.  For the cost of the seal and gasket $13.40, the Ultra Grey - $7.99, the Thread Sealant w/PTFE - $5.29 – for me it’s just not worth having to drop the tranny again to fix the leak from the seal, gasket, or bolts.  The leaking gear oil onto the bottom of the bell housing got blown around and onto the pressure plate, clutch disc, and flywheel.  I am replacing the clutch disc.

Gnarls.



« Last Edit: Oct 25, 2017, 03:22:24 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #988 on: Oct 29, 2017, 01:11:37 PM »
Welp, I did my valve lash today, and Gnarly, you get a gold star!  :clap:

As a reminder this is a new engnbldr Street RV head with a new 261C cam. Reused the rockers as they were in perfect shape and just got polished up a bit.

All exhaust valves and two of the intake valves were tight by 001. It should be no surprise that the 1 and 4 intakes were at spec, considering they will actually be a bit loose if the base circle technique is not used (which i doubt it was.)

Now, for the really surprising part, after I got everything to spec (used base circle on 1 and 4 intake) and buttoned her back up, my idle RPM was sitting at 1350. That's a good 500 higher than it was set before. Taking her for a test drive I am feeling noticeably more low end power, and seemingly more midrange judging from a couple hills I pulled. She kinda wants to jump off the line now. Above 3000 seems to be about the same (which is to say, awesome  :shades: ) Will need to road test a bit more to confirm.

Now, another surprise, I can get the idle down to 750 - where it should be - without the rough shaking that was happening before. I felt before that I was getting a miss down that low so I set the idle to 850 or 900 to smooth it out. That is no longer necessary. The idle sounds a lot smoother too, whereas before there was sort of a "chug" happening, which, though it sounded cool, is not normal for a 22re in my experience.

So, my feeling here is 001 off on the lash is probably not enough to burn a valve and isn't dangerous (Although I guess I really have nothing to back that up...). Clearly however, there are massive performance differences to be had with this cam. I wonder how much of the hate for this cam could be resolved with a very precise lash setting.

Other note, the lobes definitely do not line up perfectly with the rocker pads. All of the pads had complete contact - none were going past the edge of the lobes - but several were pretty close to the edge. I do not have a stocker to look at right now so I am not sure if they are supposed to be perfectly centered? In any case I can't see it being a problem. My cam lobes seem to be in perfect shape, no scoring or discoloration or anything. I guess I got the break-in correct.

My machinist who built the motor never said anything about the lobes, and he builds a lot of 22res, so I wonder if they are just never really centered and it isn't a problem.
85 4runner, 22re, 5spd, Ultimate crawler, Alcan lift that is too high, 35s, ARBs.

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #989 on: Oct 29, 2017, 06:38:02 PM »
Welp, I did my valve lash today, and Gnarly, you get a gold star!  :clap:

As a reminder this is a new engnbldr Street RV head with a new 261C cam. Reused the rockers as they were in perfect shape and just got polished up a bit.

All exhaust valves and two of the intake valves were tight by 001. It should be no surprise that the 1 and 4 intakes were at spec, considering they will actually be a bit loose if the base circle technique is not used (which i doubt it was.)

Now, for the really surprising part, after I got everything to spec (used base circle on 1 and 4 intake) and buttoned her back up, my idle RPM was sitting at 1350. That's a good 500 higher than it was set before. Taking her for a test drive I am feeling noticeably more low end power, and seemingly more midrange judging from a couple hills I pulled. She kinda wants to jump off the line now. Above 3000 seems to be about the same (which is to say, awesome  :shades: ) Will need to road test a bit more to confirm.

Now, another surprise, I can get the idle down to 750 - where it should be - without the rough shaking that was happening before. I felt before that I was getting a miss down that low so I set the idle to 850 or 900 to smooth it out. That is no longer necessary. The idle sounds a lot smoother too, whereas before there was sort of a "chug" happening, which, though it sounded cool, is not normal for a 22re in my experience.

So, my feeling here is 001 off on the lash is probably not enough to burn a valve and isn't dangerous (Although I guess I really have nothing to back that up...). Clearly however, there are massive performance differences to be had with this cam. I wonder how much of the hate for this cam could be resolved with a very precise lash setting.

Other note, the lobes definitely do not line up perfectly with the rocker pads. All of the pads had complete contact - none were going past the edge of the lobes - but several were pretty close to the edge. I do not have a stocker to look at right now so I am not sure if they are supposed to be perfectly centered? In any case I can't see it being a problem. My cam lobes seem to be in perfect shape, no scoring or discoloration or anything. I guess I got the break-in correct.

My machinist who built the motor never said anything about the lobes, and he builds a lot of 22res, so I wonder if they are just never really centered and it isn't a problem.

Hey andykrow,

Welll.. I’m not sure I deserve a GOLD star… Thank you.

Ohhh... Wait…. Didn’t a couple of experts here say the valve lash doesn’t go “tight”????  :_oops:

I spent many hours testing and experimenting with the valve lash on my 1985 22R, so all I have to go on is just MY limited experience.

And yes, valve lash adjustment CAN affect performance. 

Here's a quick FAQ:   http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/threads/comp-cams-quick-tech-video-how-to-set-valve-lash.4986/

I think H8PVMNT will back me up on this… the carb’d engines respond to very small changes that you can feel in your butt dyno.  The 22RE, with mamaCPU and her over-priced sensors tend to “control” the changes, and programmed to modulate the best gas mileage and emissions control, to name few things she does.  I'm not saying the 22RE is bad, I’m saying from my experience I could feel the changes I made with my 22R WAY more than I can feel the changes with both of my 22REs.

So what lash did you end up with?

Have you been able to calculate any accurate gas mileage?

On idle RPM, my 22RE, thus far likes the idle about 900, and I’m OK with that.  And I believe that is because of the overlap in the 261C cam.

I'm very glad you are getting what you are out of that engine and combo…. Great job!!  I'm envious at this point.

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Oct 29, 2017, 07:03:09 PM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

 
 
 
 
 

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