Author Topic: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild  (Read 188082 times)

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Gnarly4X

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #720 on: Apr 03, 2017, 04:01:24 AM »
Here's to progress! :beerchug: Nice work.

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Hey fireitup,

Yeah... thank you.  I really appreciate all the good input and encouragement.  :greengrin:

Gnarls. :D
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #721 on: Apr 03, 2017, 04:36:16 AM »
Probably tires, but not flat spot.   Flat spots go away once tires warm up.     Either balance weight (hopefully) or see above....

Misfire might be another iffy connector.

Clunk: driveshaft splines loose (did you relube shaft?),   loose bolts, or u-joint bad.

As for perky,  the engine has more friction now (breakin) so you lose some there; and the ECU is still learning the new setup.....

Hey emsvitil,

The vibration...  Well, before I parked the truck in 2013, the tires were fresh and balanced well.  I cleaned and relubed the U-joints and spline and was careful with re-installing them, so I'd be surprised if they are loose.  The amount of vibration feels like tires, but could be in drive line.  I will check it out, and then have Discount Tire look at the tires... geezzz I would hate to have to buy brand new tires again!... but I should have blocked up the truck.

The clank at start and back up...  that sounds like very sharp metallic clank with a very slight lag.  I will check motor mounts and drive line.  I may have to put it up on jack stands and get under the truck with my wife doing the shifting test?

The misfire... it has a very slight misfire during low RPM between off idle and 25 MPH, just driving slowly in 1st gear. I don't think its spark or ignition timing.  It could be air/fuel mixture? I will pull the plugs this afternoon.  I will do some diags on the ignitor and coil.  Yes, the issue could be 3 other bad injector connectors!.. or some wires in the harness that are not getting a solid connection or ground.

I am still wondering about this cam profile.  IF, after about 200 miles, and all my normal "tweaking" and verifying all systems are performing normal, it doesn't smooth out, I may consider swapping in a different camshaft.  I can re-install the stock cam that was in the old head as a test.

I don't have the pleasure of previously breaking in a rebuilt 22RE so I don't have anything to compare to.  I realize at only 45 or so miles on a break in its still "stiff".  I have read that the ECU "learns", but I would like to understand what EXACTLY does that mean.  The ECU and input from the sensors have electrical ranges and limitations - what are those limitations?

This rebuild has been a real challenge and interesting.  I sincerely appreciate all the input, great advice, shared knowledge, and the poking fun at me.  My truck is my second "hobby" right now, and it would not be as fun if it weren't for all of you who contribute to my experience!!  Thank you with HUGE-ness!

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Apr 03, 2017, 04:54:27 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #722 on: Apr 03, 2017, 04:45:28 AM »
:beerchug: glad you got it running

Hey ovrarok,

Thank you!  Yes, it felt better today being able to drive it again.  I still have some "bugs" to work out, but I guess that comes with keeping an old truck alive.

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Apr 03, 2017, 06:37:27 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #723 on: Apr 03, 2017, 06:37:23 AM »
Glad it's coming along. Do you have an EGR valve on that engine? If so, try disconnecting the vacuum to it and testing for the misfire. If you added larger pistons, valves, header your vacuum will likely increase and could be causing the EGR valve to open too soon. I had to put a restrictor in mine for it to run right

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #724 on: Apr 03, 2017, 07:37:05 AM »
Now this is more like it!
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #725 on: Apr 03, 2017, 08:57:35 AM »
Glad it's coming along. Do you have an EGR valve on that engine? If so, try disconnecting the vacuum to it and testing for the misfire. If you added larger pistons, valves, header your vacuum will likely increase and could be causing the EGR valve to open too soon. I had to put a restrictor in mine for it to run right

Yes, it has an EGR valve.  I will check it.  And, the cam profile can change the vacuum.

Thanks-a-million!

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #726 on: Apr 03, 2017, 09:00:09 AM »
Now this is more like it!


If this engine doesn't perform like it should, I may do an engine swap..... or go to a carb.

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Apr 03, 2017, 09:39:16 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #727 on: Apr 03, 2017, 01:38:04 PM »
Note:

For as long as I can remember I've had an occasional 'ting' in the driveline somewhere.    Noticed when windows open (esp. rear), no radio, and changing direction of travel (F->R,R->F).    Still haven't figured it out, but it hasn't hurt anything..........
Ed
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #728 on: Apr 03, 2017, 02:24:18 PM »
Hey emsvitil,

The vibration...  Well, before I parked the truck in 2013, the tires were fresh and balanced well.  I cleaned and relubed the U-joints and spline and was careful with re-installing them, so I'd be surprised if they are loose.  The amount of vibration feels like tires, but could be in drive line.  I will check it out, and then have Discount Tire look at the tires... geezzz I would hate to have to buy brand new tires again!... but I should have blocked up the truck.

The clank at start and back up...  that sounds like very sharp metallic clank with a very slight lag.  I will check motor mounts and drive line.  I may have to put it up on jack stands and get under the truck with my wife doing the shifting test?

The misfire... it has a very slight misfire during low RPM between off idle and 25 MPH, just driving slowly in 1st gear. I don't think its spark or ignition timing.  It could be air/fuel mixture? I will pull the plugs this afternoon.  I will do some diags on the ignitor and coil.  Yes, the issue could be 3 other bad injector connectors!.. or some wires in the harness that are not getting a solid connection or ground.

I am still wondering about this cam profile.  IF, after about 200 miles, and all my normal "tweaking" and verifying all systems are performing normal, it doesn't smooth out, I may consider swapping in a different camshaft.  I can re-install the stock cam that was in the old head as a test.

I don't have the pleasure of previously breaking in a rebuilt 22RE so I don't have anything to compare to.  I realize at only 45 or so miles on a break in its still "stiff".  I have read that the ECU "learns", but I would like to understand what EXACTLY does that mean.  The ECU and input from the sensors have electrical ranges and limitations - what are those limitations?

This rebuild has been a real challenge and interesting.  I sincerely appreciate all the input, great advice, shared knowledge, and the poking fun at me.  My truck is my second "hobby" right now, and it would not be as fun if it weren't for all of you who contribute to my experience!!  Thank you with HUGE-ness!

Gnarls.

The metallic sound on take off/back up is usually indicative of bad u-joints, even freshly greased worn ones will "tink"

As far as a lot of the sounds go, they were likely there before, its just been 4yrs since you heard them, and now with the "new engine" you are hyper sensitive to all the noises you are hearing.

Can't judge the performance until at least 500 miles have passed, by then the engine should have gone through several heat cycles, breaking everything in, until then as long as it runs smoothly, wouldn't touch it.  Also won't be able to judge its true performance until you run 4.56's for the 31's, or slap on a set of 28's.
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #729 on: Apr 03, 2017, 03:23:53 PM »
Yeah they can "tink" for a long time if you keep grease in them.
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Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #730 on: Apr 03, 2017, 06:40:35 PM »
Note:

For as long as I can remember I've had an occasional 'ting' in the driveline somewhere.    Noticed when windows open (esp. rear), no radio, and changing direction of travel (F->R,R->F).    Still haven't figured it out, but it hasn't hurt anything..........

"It's a big ting" (Cool Runnings 1993)...  :greengrin:

In all my vehicles, including 5 trucks, I never had a "ting" in the drive train that was normal.   :shake:

There will be NO permanent, occasional, or abnormal tinging in my truck. :thumbs:

Now... In my trucks with Detroit Lockers and Lock Rights... I had clunking and banging... but that was normal.  :gap:

No ting is a good ting. :beerchug:

Gnarls. :spin:

« Last Edit: Apr 03, 2017, 07:25:38 PM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #731 on: Apr 03, 2017, 06:43:08 PM »
Yeah they can "tink" for a long time if you keep grease in them.

Only if I use "tink grease"!  :rofl:

Gnarls. :D
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #732 on: Apr 03, 2017, 07:13:18 PM »
The metallic sound on take off/back up is usually indicative of bad u-joints, even freshly greased worn ones will "tink"

As far as a lot of the sounds go, they were likely there before, its just been 4yrs since you heard them, and now with the "new engine" you are hyper sensitive to all the noises you are hearing.

Can't judge the performance until at least 500 miles have passed, by then the engine should have gone through several heat cycles, breaking everything in, until then as long as it runs smoothly, wouldn't touch it.  Also won't be able to judge its true performance until you run 4.56's for the 31's, or slap on a set of 28's.

Hey Snowtoy,

Yes, could be U-joints, but there was zero tinking when I parked it.  If a U-joint goes bad I usually get a mild vibration. 
The U-joints in the rear drive shaft are fairly fresh, but since starting this rebuild, I won't be shocked at anything that is unexpected.

I agree that I may be hypersensitive, but I've always been hypersensitive to noises, vibrations, and leaks.  Even though its been 4 years, I have a vivid auditory memory of my engine sounds.  This is my 3rd truck with a 22, so I'm very familiar with how it sounds when its running like it should.

Whether or not it takes 500 miles to break in a rebuilt 22RE is subjective.  I should know more in a few months.  I do believe, being around race built engines and high performance engines most of my life, that I can tell if an engine is "feeling" right.  The throttle response at this point is not what I expected and I believe there is some tweaking I will need to do, but I expected tweaking.

I certainly can judge its performance without changing tire sizes or gear ratios.  I can compare the engine's performance before the rebuild because it will have the same tires and same gear ratio.  I may end up with a lower ring & pinion ratio, but that was not my intention when I started this rebuild.

Arguably... Changing gear ratios or tire sizes has nothing to do with the engine's performance. At this point, I am only interested in the engine's performance, NOT the truck's performance with gears and tires.  If I built two 22RE engines and tested them on a SuperFlo 902S engine dyno, and one produced 110 HP and one produced 150 HP, which one would make my 5-speed truck perform better if my truck had 31" tires and 4:10 ring & pinion?

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Apr 03, 2017, 07:24:53 PM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #733 on: Apr 04, 2017, 04:25:09 AM »
...  Also won't be able to judge its true performance until you run 4.56's for the 31's, or slap on a set of 28's.

Hi Snowtoy,

Gear ratios.. We have already discussed this topic… but for more insight into my thinking…

I realize that changing the ring & pinion in my truck closer to factory stock (smaller tire diameter) will improve my seat-of-the-pants drivability.

This is just my weird thinking… 
There are thousands of posts on forums discussing the modifications of 20/22s. I believe the 22R carb’d engine will allow more power gains with relatively simple modifications – intake, cam, and exhaust – than the 22RE ECU controlled EFI. In my own experience with simple mods (Double Gnarly Air Filter Mod) to my 22R was very noticeable.  H8PVMNT's thread on tweaking a carb’d engine proves to me that simple modifications can produce significant power improvements and throttle response.

In the early design of the 22s, I believe that the 22RE, with its sensors and ECU, “controls” and restricts power output. The reason is it’s designed to meet very strict USA, Federal and State emissions regulations and gas mileage.

So… when we attempt to modify it to get more juice out of it, the ECU says “Uh-Uh”.. “gotta keep those emissions and MPG in check!”  The 8 primary sensors (Air Flow Meter, Throttle Position Sensor, Water Thermo Sensor, Air Thermo Sensor, O2 Sensor, Start Injector Sensor, Start Injector Time Switch, Ignition Primary Signal, and Starter Signal) in a 1986 22RE input “data” to the ECU.  The ECU is programmed to keep engine output within a “boundary”.  My 1986 California Longbed Automatic 22RE was rated at 116 HP.  I don’t believe the Japanese engineers purposely designed the 1986 22RE and programmed the sensors and ECU, sold into the USA general automotive consumer market, to produce 150 HP… just my opinion.

Does the factory stock 22RE restrict performance gains produced with after market modifications designed to increase torque and HP?

The 22R, however, does not have the limiting controls of an ECU and sensor inputs.

I have been told by very reputable Toyota engine builders who “claim” that modifications to a 22RE will produce noticeable X to XX improvement in HP and Torque numbers.  However, I have also been told by very reputable Toyota engine builders who “claim” that basic modifications, i.e. cam and exhaust will NOT produce noticeable X to XX improvement.

And, of course there are all those people out there who “claim” (myself included) to experience noticeable power gains with their modications in both their 20R, 22R, and 22RE engines.

I have spent many hours doing mock dyno tests on my desktop dyno software.  I see numbers on paper and some have been substantiated by guys I’ve communicated with.

Here’s my bottom-line:  I want to find out for MYSELF what this engine will or will not produce – measured by my seat-of-the-pants butt dyno OR on a chassis dyno – with my specific engine modifications.

Gnarls.

« Last Edit: Apr 04, 2017, 06:58:21 PM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #734 on: Apr 04, 2017, 07:32:34 PM »
UPDATE:  4-4-17 PM

I put another 20 miles on the engine today.  I tach'd it up to 5,000 RPMs 3 or 4 times :yikes:  I seems to have plenty of torque in 5th gear @ 2,000 RPM = about 53 MPH.

The vibration seems to be tires – crap!

It still doesn’t start from a cold start as quickly as it should… I will be doing some diags and fine tuning Thursday.

If this engine (with the 261C cam) produces the torque numbers at the RPMs as indicated on my Engine Analyzer software, it will be exactly where I want my torque range to be for 80 MPH in both 5th and 4th gears – with my stock 4.10 ring & pinion and 31” tires!!

For example, if I’m cruising down the freeway in 5th gear @ 80 MPH - the engine will be producing 152 lbs of torque at 3022 RPMs, which is the beginning of its predicted peak torque range.

If I start up a steep uphill climb, and I have to shift down to 4th gear, the RPMs about 3555, which is the end of the peak torque range, about 151 lbs of torque @ 80 MPH.  This engine should be perfectly happy at 3500 to 3600 RPM all day long.

Gnarls
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #735 on: Apr 05, 2017, 05:19:05 AM »
Experience is a great teacher. 

As I work out the issues on my truck after this engine rebuild and having resurrected it from being stored for 4 years... I did more research on tire flat-spotting.

Well, it looks like I have stupidly have ruined my fresh set of Michelins. :smack:  According to what I've read, temporary flat-spotting is fairly common when a vehicle sits on it tires from overnight to several days.  :psss: PERMANENT flat-spotting can occur when a vehicle sits for several months!  :yikes:  I will do one more test and air up the tires to near max PSI, drive it down the freeway for an  hour or so and see what happens, but it appears that if the flat spots come out it will be a miracle! :crossed:

I have never "stored" a vehicle.  Experience is a great teacher.   Believing that I was going to store my truck for an extended period,  I should have drained my fuel tank and blocked up the truck.  I should have completely drained the coolant from the block.  :hammer:

By the time I get my truck where I want it, I will be over $6,000 invested since starting my rebuild.  :willynilly:

Gnarls. :spin:



« Last Edit: Apr 05, 2017, 06:40:05 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #736 on: Apr 05, 2017, 07:19:38 AM »
I agree with everything except this statement.  :qtip:
"I should have completely drained the coolant from the block"
Please explain why?
I think You could cause more issues having the cooling system completely exposed.
I could see draining the cooling system and refilling with fresh.
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #737 on: Apr 05, 2017, 08:23:24 AM »
You could also air the tires down a bit and force them to flex.
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #738 on: Apr 05, 2017, 09:20:20 AM »
You could also air the tires down a bit and force them to flex.

Did that.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #739 on: Apr 05, 2017, 09:34:31 AM »
Michelins are a waste of money.  When I worked at the tire shop, Michelins were the worst tire.  They loved to separate and blow out.
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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #740 on: Apr 05, 2017, 10:01:17 AM »
Michelins are a waste of money.  When I worked at the tire shop, Michelins were the worst tire.  They loved to separate and blow out.


Get outta TOWN!!  :yikes:

Gnarls.  :dunno:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #741 on: Apr 05, 2017, 11:22:10 AM »
I agree with everything except this statement.  :qtip:
"I should have completely drained the coolant from the block"
Please explain why?
I think You could cause more issues having the cooling system completely exposed.
I could see draining the cooling system and refilling with fresh.

Over time the water and ethylene glycol will separate. And any air space will be get exposed to water vapor and moisture.. promoting rust!!

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #742 on: Apr 05, 2017, 01:22:36 PM »
My BFG ATs sit for months at a time and don't flatspot.............................
Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #743 on: Apr 05, 2017, 01:36:11 PM »
My BFG ATs sit for months at a time and don't flatspot.............................

Yeah.. apparently the degree of flat-spotting depends on the structure of the tire.

I think even though I had them air'd up to 45 PSI, they are fubar'd after 4 years!!  :thumbdown:

Gnarls.  :- :cheese:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #744 on: Apr 05, 2017, 02:01:16 PM »
So, only use them off-road.

Might even smooth out the off-road driving.


 :think:
Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #745 on: Apr 05, 2017, 02:34:35 PM »
So, only use them off-road.

Might even smooth out the off-road driving.


 :think:

Yes, I could use them off-road, but I would have to trailer the truck, because the vibration on the highway is horrible!

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #746 on: Apr 06, 2017, 07:11:28 AM »
Jack up the axles and spin the tires by hand.  That will show you if you have a separation. 



The next time you are at a Costco or tire shop that sells Michelins, grab the sidewalls, and flex them.  Then push on the tread face.  There is nothing to Michelins.  Then compare it to another tire. 
Miss ya Dean (4THEWKN) & Kyle (KYOTA)!!

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Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #747 on: Apr 06, 2017, 10:22:12 AM »
...
The next time you are at a Costco or tire shop that sells Michelins, grab the sidewalls, and flex them.  Then push on the tread face.  There is nothing to Michelins.  Then compare it to another tire. 

Michelins are a waste of money.  When I worked at the tire shop, Michelins were the worst tire.  They loved to separate and blow out.

I am not a tire expert by any stretch, although I've been the consumer of all kinds of tires in a variety of applications for the past 50+ years, so I have experience with a number of major brands.

So far, I've been very happy with the Michelin tires I've purchased for both my Toyota cars and Toyota trucks.

For many years Michelin tires have been a top rated tire manufacturer by many tire distributors, test labs, and consumers.

Comparing a tire's performance by me "feeling" it may not be the most accurate way to discover it's quality.

Using "feel" by hand to evaluate the quality of an object or material may work for toilet paper, but could be deceptive for evaluating the performance of many different materials, substances, and parts.... examples:  carbon fiber vs aluminum, Kevlar vs leather, titanium vs steel, rayon vs cotton.

That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.

Gnarls.


« Last Edit: Apr 06, 2017, 10:29:08 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #748 on: Apr 07, 2017, 08:07:17 PM »
I’m working on getting this engine fully broken in, and getting it tuned so it will start up like I believe it should.

My first 1986 4X4 Longbed Automatic, 22RE would start up every time without touching the gas pedal.. just turning the key.  And it didn’t matter what the outside air temp was.

Yesterday I tried adjusting idle screw on the throttle linkage according to LCE’s PDF – Throttle Position Tech & Adjustment Procedure.

It didn’t work for me.

So this afternoon I got the engine up to operating temp  I loosened the idle stop allen screw and nut on the throttle linkage and simply adjusted the screw with the allen wrench just before it cracked the throttle body butterfly, which would raise the idle RPM, as the screw sat on the damper.  Then I adjusted the idle screw valve on the throttle body so the idle RPM is about 800.

I will see how it “cold starts” tomorrow.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« Reply #749 on: Apr 08, 2017, 03:42:02 AM »
Is there a chance the plug on your cold start injector is crusty like the others?
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