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Time to pull the harness
Question, did you purchase vehicle with bad motor, or where you driving this when motor went bad ?
Do You have a small green propain bottle?
I don't know about you, but I use anti-pain bottles..........
Is it wrong for Me to enjoy the blind leading the blind. Here is some advice. Go back to basics, what does it take to fire a cylinder?We have been over this before.#1#2#3#4Fill in the blanks.
Pushsqueezebangblow
Are you running platinums or coppers?Swap the injector number 1 to injector number 3 or 4 to eliminate or isolate injector problem. If nothing changes, swap injector plug 1 and 2 if possible.If nothing changes between the injector swap, I would swap spark plugs between 2 cylinders and if nothing, then wires (would be an unlikely problem after all the spark tests you have made, but is quick and worth doing still to completely eliminate the spark plug or the wire as being the issue)Don't remove the harness before you have isolated it to be the problem, you'll come out a better mecanic and knowing your truck even more once you've found and fixed the problem.
When you set your valves, What method did You use?Do You have a small green propain bottle?
I have an extra 22R intake manifold. Just sayin'.
Set the valve lash? I used the FSM method, with a feeler gauge.Yes, I have a green propane bottle and torch adapter. Is your "trick" the one used for finding a vacuum leak?Gnarls.
I suspect You bought an engine Builder cam Didn't You.Try adjusting all the valves again making sure each valve is adjusted when you are on the back side of the cam lobe. This exact same thing happended to me and is why I will never use a crap EB cam again.poor cam grind is likely your problem. If you adjust it on the back side of each lobe it will run on all 4 cyl.
... Try adjusting all the valves again making sure each valve is adjusted when you are on the back side of the cam lobe.
Adjust the valve lash with each cylinder at TDC compression stroke.
I had installed a new set of platinums when I first tried to fire the engine. I replaced them with a new set of NGK OEM replacements.Yeah, I understand the idea of swapping to test, but each time I swap, I will have to remove and re-install the chamber, throttle body, fuel rail, and 2 1/2 pages of parts, hose, and connectors!I suspect that the injector is plugged, partially plugged, or just not firing.Gnarls.
Man oh man.... You should be adjusting each valve on the back side (the complete opposite of the peak)This is how it's been done for years.
You should only have to remove the rad hose and possibly the t-stat housing to reach the #1 injector, you should then be able to test the wiring harness and the resistance of the injector w/o having to disassemble anything else.
You honestly still don't trust Me ... I'm hurt.
... The cam grinds that I have received from EB have bin imprecise.
... I found that if I readjusted the valves loose it would fire that cyl.
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