0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Is anyone running their 20R, 22R, or 22RE at a higher compression ratio than stock? Why or why not? On a compression test, what lbs. of compression do you get? What octane rating are you burning?Gnarls.
I am certain that mine is running a slightly higher compression ratio due to the block being significantly decked when it was rebuilt. I had been running premium in it until just prior to the last Moab trip and didn't notice a different when dropping to regular grade fuel. I've recently did a tune-up and installed new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. When it was in for the rear axle replacement I had my mechanic check the timing since he had it and it was set between 0 and 2 degrees. He initially set it at the standard 5 degrees and it was pinging so it's currently at 3 degrees and seem ok. The idle is a lot more rough when warmed up and I seem to have lost a little power overall but it runs really smoothly. I am considering going back to premium and seeing how far I can advance the timing.
You guys are too advanced for me I used to love my 22RE but that's about all I knew about it was that I loved it you guys are confusing me with all your high-tech chatterSent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
OK I was just playing what is the deckSent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
Cool cool. Sorry for side busting on your convo with some silly stupid shizz. Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
OK, thanks for the commentary. Yeah.. you don't want it pinging!Do you remember how much the block was decked?Gnarls.
Stock compression ratio is 9.4Going to 9.5 shouldn't increase that much.There is a knock sensor, so timing should be fine.I run my stock 86 3 degrees advanced on 87.So adjusting initial timing and octane increase (if necessary) should handle 10:1You should be able to get some nice squish too, so that will help (assuming you're decking block to get compression increase)
Hey Benjyman,I'm not trying to confuse anyone. But, as I rebuild this engine I have questions about some things and I am trying to anticipate any issues, as well as pick the brains of the guys here that have way more experience than I do. The deck on this block was cleaned to only about .006" off during machining, but I'm curious how much it will raise the compression, which will be slightly. I'm hoping to be able to burn 87 Octane gas and avoid any ignition timing issue with pinging or detonation. Gnarls.
.006 might raise the cr a tenth. so say its 9.5 before it might be 9.6 now. My .060 over block engine had the deck cleaned .005 and the head cleaned .004 and the compression ratio calculated to be 9.7 with the timing retarded a little from the stock 8* to 5* I could pull any load with 87 octane.
More delay...T-case shifter plate - W56BDo I need to get the two paper gaskets or can I use Ultra Black?Thanks,Gnarls.
I think you are at the point where making more power mods from a 22-r no longer produce the kind of gains that you can feel. .... I have seen too many times where people get caught up in the chase for more performance ..
I'd probably use some permatex black, lightly coating a new gasket from my buddy at the dealershipSent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
That sounds exciting. Good days ahead. Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
Here's my thinking... If I could start over on this rebuild. I would consider going .060" over on the bore and raising the compression to 9.7 by milling the head + the block deck clean. Even if I had to burn 89 octane or higher, it's only about $14.00 more a month on my averge fuel cost.To get that extra torque, I think it would be worth it. But... I've gotten different opinions on if its worth it or would make that much difference in power gain.Any other thoughts...?Gnarls.
I think you are at the point where making more power mods from a 22-r no longer produce the kind of gains that you can feel. The kind of additional you want would likely cost more than it's worth and an engine swap begins to be the best way to get more power. Remember that a 3-RZ, 5-VZ, 2-JZ, 1-KZ and 1-UZ each of these new generation "Z" motors make way more power and will all net you equal or better fuel economy. The process of installing one of these motors can be complicated and expensive but it will net you the kind of factory reliability that toyota built into them. If I were to advise you I would say drive the motor that you have built. Don't get to caught up in trying to get more power out of it. I would guess that as it is you have a carefully built motor that will give you enough power for what you need to have fun with it. I have seen too many times where people get caught up in the chase for more performance and they end up with a high dollar project that sits in pieces in the garage and when their friends go out wheeling they can't because their junk is in pieces.
nah, wait ten years or 200,000 miles and then bore it to .060
... BUT it still got like 16-17 mpg. Thats the mileage my old 060 22R made.
I would say anywhere from 15-21mpg depending on how you are driving the thing.Carbed 22r I've gotten as bad as 13 and up to 19 mpg so far.
Started by alfio
Parts For Sale
Started by dune_it86
Started by richard head
Toyota Pickup/4Runner Tech 1979-95
Started by KDXSR5
Toyota Pickup/4Runner Tech 1979-95
Started by 83yota
Project Research and Build-Ups