Author Topic: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild  (Read 213560 times)

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Re: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild
« on: Jul 02, 2016, 07:01:18 PM »
I didn't use locktite, but I did use never seize on the manifold side. As for the DT header, why did you choose that one? I heard it has/had problems  because of that welded o-ring never sealing right.

I have heli-coiled and tapped several 22 heads *ON THE ENGINE*... It was really hard and I never was satisfied with the results.

I have my own theory on why the stock studs pull or spin.  The studs are in aluminum alloy and the difference in expansion coefficients, plus I think the two metals don't like to live together... that causes a corrosion on the threads and weakens the soft threads in the head.  The other thing that causes them to spin is the stock self-locking nut.. too much friction and torque.  Loctite is good.  On my '85 I used never-seize compound on the header threads and just a split lock washer and hex nut. I had to re-tighten them about 3 times before I got them to stay tight.

I have had a DT header on both my '86s and my '85.  Yes, the mating flange to the head is a bad design and should be perfectly flat.  I had to have all 3 of my DT headers machined flat and smooth.  I think the DT header is the best all-around Tri-Y header for a 22R or RE.  If I were racing my truck in the Baja 500 and would be WOT most of time at 5,000 RPM, then an LCE 4-in-to-1 header might be better choice.

Just a DT header and 2.25" exhaust with free-flow cat and muffler on a stock 22 will get about 10% increase in torque and HP numbers.  Back in late 80's I had a chance to meet and talk to one of Doug Thorely's engineers, he said the tri-y header is the easiest and least expensive modification and gain in throttle response in 22.

That's just my worthless opinion.

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header.


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