Author Topic: BigMike's Big Journey: A 2016 Tacoma Build Thread  (Read 173993 times)

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BigMike

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July 2, 2017: Hauled my biggest load to date

On July 2nd I hauled 1,080 pounds of patio stones for my mother. This is the largest load I've hauled to date.



The All Pro 3" springs were very much not happy with the load, Fox Shox 2.0 fully compressed.

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BigMike [OP]

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With a couple trails out of the way it was time to get going with Stage 2!

July 3, 2017: Stage 2 has officially begun!

The next day this project was kicked off by the arrival of these:



ATX AX757 Chamber Pro II beadlocks, size 17" x 9" wide, -24mm/-0.95in offset
Mfg info: http://www.atxwheels.com/wheel/33129/ax757-chamber-pro-ii

These wheels were strongly recommended by a friend who has a lot of experience with tires larger than anything I've ever wheeled before. *hint



Wow these wheels are BEEFY. The ring is MASSIVE. They make my Allied Beadlocks look like a cheap trick. I'm already way in love them
New Instagram: @SlowestTacoma

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2016 56-speed 580:1 Triple T/Case 3rd gen Tacoma Rock Crawler   
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
1987 6-speed Supercharged 4A-GZE MR2
Things are only impossible until they are not.
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BigMike [OP]

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So what is my Stage 2? First some background

Here was my original timeline with this truck:
Oct 2015: Take ownership of the new 3rd gen Tacoma (didn't happen)
--Ended up taking 261 days, see page 1

Winter 2015/2016: Finish Stage 1 in time for a few easy annual events (didn't happen)
--Didn't get the truck home until nearly May

Summer 2016: Finish Stage 2 in time for Rubithon/June (didn't happen)
--Having only owned the truck for 1 month there was no way I could be ready for Rubithon. It wouldn't have panned out anyhow: Crawler not developed for new 3rd gen yet, R&P not developed for new 3rd gen yet, lockers not developed for new 3rd gen yet...
--Once I missed Rubithon in June and the wheel'n season was in full swing, it was pretty much a wash for me all the way through our annual Marlin Crawler Round Up event/September and the Pomona Off Road Expo/October.

So 2016 was a bummer for sure. The next best time to get it done is now!

My goal for Stage 1:
Drivetrain: Marlin Crawler TacoBox (goal accomplished)
Tires: 33" tires (goal accomplished)
Suspension: 3" All-Pro UCA lift (goal accomplished)
ARB air lockers F&R (installed but not connected, no on-board air yet)
------

With a Crawler, slight lift, 33" tires, and lockers F&R the Tacoma should be capable to do all of the easy stuff. I could have just stopped here. I could have left the truck on 33s and ended up looking like 90% of all other Tacomas on the trail. But that's not me. That's not the Marlin Crawler iconic truck way. I need to do something that is really going to stand out, and most importantly something that is going to challenge the opinion people have of the Tacoma.

My goal for Stage 2:
Drivetrain: Marlin Crawler TacoBox (carry over from stage 1)
ARB air lockers F&R (carry over from stage 1 + get these puppies working)

Tires:
I love the look of 37" tires on my Hilux so my goal has been to retain the same aspect ratio on the Tacoma. Here is what this means: The 37" Interco IROK tires on my Hilux measured 36.5" new. The body of the Tacoma is 25.6% longer, 19.4% wider, and 21.7% taller for an overall average size increase of 23.0%. Now take my Hilux tires 36.5" X 23.0% body size increase of the Tacoma = 44.6" Stage 2 tire size holy crap that is huge! I couldn't even do this if I tried as California only allows up to a 44" tire for highway use. When I calculated this I was really bummed. I love driving "to the trail and back" but can't see myself driving 44" tires across multiple state lines for events. So I thought, ok, how about we meet in the middle which would be a 40.5" tire and the compromise I like: I will run 40" tires.

Suspension:
Since day one everyone has been asking me when am I going to Solid Axle Swap the Tacoma, and while my comment on P1 said at least not for the first year, my answer since earlier this year is now never. Here is why: Anyone can SAS a Tacoma and go run X Y and Z trail and make it look easy & sexy. But what I am going to do is run the same X Y and Z trail while retaining IFS while on crazy huge tires to prove that with the incredible control and safety of the Marlin Crawler, a Tacoma doesn't have to have a SAS in order to hit some very challenging trails. I see a market here that no one is exploiting in this industry. Everyone I've shared Stage 2 with thinks I am out of my mind and I LOVE it. This is what will drive us to push the industry forward & make some awesome improvements to the IFS system to prove that IFS + our TacoBox can take you anywhere!
------

And that's it for Stage 2. I've already got a Stage 3 planned for winter 2017/2018 (World's First Triple cased Tacoma [of ANY Tacoma 1st/2nd/3rd gen], Front & Rear Bumpers [to be marketed and sold by MC], and a significant bump in power *hint), some of this is already underway ;)
« Last Edit: Aug 23, 2017, 09:50:58 PM by BigMike »
New Instagram: @SlowestTacoma

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2016 56-speed 580:1 Triple T/Case 3rd gen Tacoma Rock Crawler   
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
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BigMike [OP]

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*Hint: You guys still don't know what I've got going on ;) ;)

July 4, 2017: Stage 2 has officially begun! (continued): New meats showed up!

Without any further ado, the following day these showed up!!







New Instagram: @SlowestTacoma

Check out our new Rock Crawling Videos!
2016 56-speed 580:1 Triple T/Case 3rd gen Tacoma Rock Crawler   
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
1987 6-speed Supercharged 4A-GZE MR2
Things are only impossible until they are not.
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"An informed question. But difficult to answer. I am what you see." -Nanaki

BigMike [OP]

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Ok my friends, you are looking at my brand-new Cooper Discoverer SST Pro 40" x 13.5" x 17" tires!
Mfg info: http://us.coopertire.com/Tires/Light-Truck/DISCOVERER-STT-PRO.aspx

I have so much to discuss about tires because the hunt for a 40" tire was pretty brutal. I didn't like any of them and most were a high load rating, will be noisy as hell  (expected, but hoping to find a tire with at least some low noise tech), and won't wear great on-road. I spent a solid week reading reviews and looking into tires that I was familiar with. I then spent another week looking at 39s and 38s but the problem here is a new 38" will only measure 37.5" and after two years will be 36.75" and then I'm right back to my Hilux... ho hum. If BFG made a 40" All-Terrain I would have immediate purchased it but no one makes anything close to an All-Terrain this side of 37". Then the same friend who turned me onto the ATX wheels strongly recommended these Coopers (I've never owned a set of Coopers in my life) saying I will not find a better all-around 40" tire. After taking my friend's advice and reading a bunch of reviews I felt very happy with these new Coopers and ordered them. When I placed the order there were only 6 available on the west coast and many threads I was finding (mostly from earlier this spring) were claiming of big back orders from Cooper. So I was psyched to be able to get a set. They are Cooper's newest tire, a load rating of only C (for this tire size that's awesome), made in USA, and many claim even as a 40" they have good road manners. I'll of course give my full review of these babies no doubt about it. For now I gotta get to sleep and will try to chime in some more tomorrow!





vs. 285/70R17 (32.7" x 11.2") BFG All-Terrains



In the worlds of the Phantom Phreak, Man oh man this is gonna be good!
« Last Edit: Aug 23, 2017, 09:13:12 PM by BigMike »
New Instagram: @SlowestTacoma

Check out our new Rock Crawling Videos!
2016 56-speed 580:1 Triple T/Case 3rd gen Tacoma Rock Crawler   
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Rockcrawlintoy

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Those STT pros look good. I should be picking a set up Saturday in 37. I can't wait to see the next stage
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I have the Cooper STTs that I bought 2 years ago before the PROs were released and I like them a lot! They are very quiet for such an aggressive tire and work well offroad. I was thoroughly impressed with them in the snow this past January and they do well on the Rubicon too. I can't say that I've had them in any real mud or sand yet. But if I do I hope they will be just as impressive in those categories of terrain as well. Looking forward to hearing back on your experience with these tire, Mike. :beerchug:

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Good choice on tires. I am currently running the exact same tire that you just got. I can personally tell you that they are great. Low road noise and hook up very well for the few times I have wheeled with them. I will be hitting the Rubicon next wknd and will have further reviews to add for them, but until then they rock. And are very light for a 40" tire also. I ordered mine in late October and got the first 4 in a month then had to wait 6 months to get my 5th tire lol. So the back order deal was legit. I am running them on DIY bead locks i built my self with no balancing of any sort and I run 70 on highway and no shakes of any sort. That speaks volume for the design and craftsmanship of the tire itself. A Friend of mine saw my tracks in the creek and called them tractor tracks lol. Taco looks great!!!!! More pics!!!!!


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Back at camp I pulled out and *finally* put on my first sticker indicating I have a superior Manual Transmission! :D



And I say why make life more complicated than it already is.  :shades:  Love this build up.
R.DesJardin
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I thought they had limited slips that required power braking to work well.  Was the Hummer really not capable or was it the mall crawler skill of the driver?  I am remembering back to my old Rick Russell videos.

They work a lot better thats for sure with a little brake
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DAMN!!!
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Back at camp I pulled out and *finally* put on my first sticker indicating I have a superior Manual Transmission! :D





My sister would like a sticker that says   

Real Women use three pedals...............
Ed
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BigMike [OP]

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Hey guys, thanks for the confidence on these tires! I'm excited to put em to use!!

July 4, 2017: Stage 2 has officially begun! (continued): New meats showed up!

Later that evening progress got underway :D

Here is what 40s look like at full droop of a 3" UCA lift kit.



WHEW I love this!



The rear 3" lift All Pro springs at full droop look worse but the front is going to be more work since the tires also have to clear while turning.



These 40s completely dwarf Marlin's (2 yr old?) 37" IROKs...



...which is good because the Tacoma dwarfs my Hilux running the same tires. :D
New Instagram: @SlowestTacoma

Check out our new Rock Crawling Videos!
2016 56-speed 580:1 Triple T/Case 3rd gen Tacoma Rock Crawler   
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
1987 6-speed Supercharged 4A-GZE MR2
Things are only impossible until they are not.
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BigMike [OP]

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Some weights...

Each 40x13.5x17 tire: 90.5 lbs



Each beefy 17x9 aluminum wheel with hardware: 43.4 lbs



For a total of 133.9 pounds. Stock 17" TRD Sport wheel with 285/70R17 BFG All Terrains: 85.3 lbs



Difference: 48.6 lbs per corner. For Rock Crawling I don't mind this weight because weight down low is favorable. This will however make the following worse:
EDIT: Whoops, I forgot, for these measurements the valve stem with pressure sensor was not included.


Issue #1: Ring and Pinion Ratio

The first issue I have with these tires is going to be available diff gearing and it's affect to on-road driveability. It's the issue I'm by far most concerned about. I knew this going in so I'll have to just bite my tongue and not complain too much, but on two occasions I've met with Nitro Gear & Axle and they have no desire to make anything lower than the 4.88:1 ratio I've already installed. They say that if anyone is going to run tires large enough to constitute more than a 4.88, then they'd change out both axles. (Why also the new, HD rear axle I'm not sure--that doesn't make sense to me.) I've known this for more than a year in fact. My issue which they don't respect stems from my minority status of having a stick shift Taco which comes with 4.30s from the factory (which is already ~5% lower than the typical factory Hilux R&P). Therefore, the 4.88s I've installed are only a 13.5% reduction whereas the 40s will be a good 30% larger. I have spoken to Yukon and there is a possibility they will make a 5.29 ratio for us but in the meantime I'll likely lose 6th gear and the amazingly nice close ratio of the 6th speed trans I've come to enjoy gear jam'n and short shifting will sadly fade away...

Some numbers...

Automatic: 3.909:1 factory R&P
-- 4.88 = 24.8% reduction which would be good for a 38.2" tire
-- 5.29 = 35.3% reduction which would be good for a 41.4" tire

Manual: 4.300:1 factory R&P
-- 4.88 = 13.5% reduction which would be good for a 34.7" tire
-- 5.29 = 23.0% reduction which would be good for a 37.6" tire

* these are literal tire heights

So I do understand Nitro's position. Because the majority of Tacoma owners don't have a deep joy of driving and by definition own an automatic, Nitro's 4.88s are good for about a 39" tire (which would probably measure 38.5" new). If an Auto owner was to run 5.29s, then to get their speedo back to stock without any other mods they'd need to run 42" tires. Nitro is then correct. Less than 0.1% of 3rd gen Tacoma owners will run 42" tires with factory IFS. Ok. I get this. But what then about Tacoma owners like myself who actually do enjoy driving? I'd really like to have 5.29s or maybe even something lower, which, in different to the Hilux community, I assume would be successful with the 3rd gen Tacoma since we #1 have a new massive 8.75" rear and, and #2 the front diff is a reverse rotation high pinion... To all my gear jam'n brothers and sisters out there, I'll post up if I hear anything back from Yukon.
« Last Edit: Aug 29, 2017, 08:05:34 AM by BigMike »
New Instagram: @SlowestTacoma

Check out our new Rock Crawling Videos!
2016 56-speed 580:1 Triple T/Case 3rd gen Tacoma Rock Crawler   
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
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Things are only impossible until they are not.
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"An informed question. But difficult to answer. I am what you see." -Nanaki

R.DesJardin

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My gearing thoughts: I don't think it matters what you wheel seldom is anything lower than 5.29/5.38's are used? So that really gets back to hp to pull you down the road something all Toyota owners have had to deal with forever. 4.88's and run a SC right! It's a bummer about the front diff having slim to none chance of having deeper gears. But there is still a chance...........ha. I run 4.88's on 36" IROKs and with my Tacoma speedometer I swapped in I'm right on for displayed speed, I wish I had and I will swap in 5.29's at some point, I don't highway drive, wheelin is out the back door unless it is a long trip then I trailer so I can take my pickup camper. I'm too old and broken to want to sleep in a tent.

This will be interesting to see what develops since this is the future of Toyota offroading. Please don't and I mean please don't do SAS and tons. Carry on......
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those tires are badass. I'm getting a smaller set in spring!
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Since day one everyone has been asking me when am I going to Solid Axle Swap the Tacoma, and while my comment on P1 said at least not for the first year, my answer since earlier this year is now never. Here is why: Anyone can SAS a Tacoma and go run X Y and Z trail and make it look easy & sexy. But what I am going to do is run the same X Y and Z trail while retaining IFS while on crazy huge tires to prove that with the incredible control and safety of the Marlin Crawler, a Tacoma doesn't have to have a SAS in order to hit some very challenging trails. I see a market here that no one is exploiting in this industry. Everyone I've shared Stage 2 with thinks I am out of my mind and I LOVE it. This is what will drive us to push the industry forward & make some awesome improvements to the IFS system to prove that IFS + our TacoBox can take you anywhere!
------


That is exactly what I was doing with my previous 2007 IFS Hilux with 35's. the dual tramsfers made most of the difficult tracks so much easier at slower speeds. opened alot of peoples eyes up to what an IFS could be capable off. :thumbs:

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Hey guys, thanks for the confidence on these tires! I'm excited to put em to use!!

July 4, 2017: Stage 2 has officially begun! (continued): New meats showed up!

Later that evening progress got underway :D

Here is what 40s look like at full droop of a 3" UCA lift kit.




Thats gonna need a whole lot of cutting to get working under compression.


Issue #1: Ring and Pinion Ratio

The first issue I have with these tires is going to be available diff gearing and it's affect to on-road driveability. It's the issue I'm by far most concerned about. I knew this going in so I'll have to just bite my tongue and not complain too much, but on two occasions I've met with Nitro Gear & Axle and they have no desire to make anything lower than the 4.88:1 ratio I've already installed. They say that if anyone is going to run tires large enough to constitute more than a 4.88, then they'd change out both axles. (Why also the new, HD rear axle I'm not sure--that doesn't make sense to me.) I've known this for more than a year in fact. My issue which they don't respect stems from my minority status of having a stick shift Taco which comes with 4.30s from the factory (which is already ~5% lower than the typical factory Hilux R&P). Therefore, the 4.88s I've installed are only a 13.5% reduction whereas the 40s will be a good 30% larger. I have spoken to Yukon and there is a possibility they will make a 5.29 ratio for us but in the meantime I'll likely lose 6th gear and the amazingly nice close ratio of the 6th speed trans I've come to enjoy gear jam'n and short shifting will sadly fade away...


Do you still have the factory 4.3 gears?   Im only running 295's (33.5x12 ) Toyo's,  on my diesel 2016, with factory gears being 3.9, 4.3 gears would be near spot on to get "as standard" performance back.

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Hey guys, thanks for the confidence on these tires! I'm excited to put em to use!!

July 4, 2017: Stage 2 has officially begun! (continued): New meats showed up!

Later that evening progress got underway :D

Here is what 40s look like at full droop of a 3" UCA lift kit.



WHEW I love this!



The rear 3" lift All Pro springs at full droop look worse but the front is going to be more work since the tires also have to clear while turning.


...which is good because the Tacoma dwarfs my Hilux running the same tires. :D


Mike,  watching you work your way through the challenges of making the 40's work will be quite interesting, entertaining, and no doubt educational.  :clap:

As you know there will be quite the limitations to overcome to make the 40's work. The All Pro kit no doubt helps as from what I have read, the different upper and lower arms move the hub position 1" further forward than a standard setup allows.   There have been been a couple desert truck 05+ tacoma's I rememebrs that ended up running 37's, but to achieve full tuck, they had to severely chop the bodymount, and tub the firewall.

You may even need to relocate the bodymount 2" further back coupled with a firewall tubbing.  Those fenders will need to be cut open a couple inches more all the way around as well.

No doubt you've heard of Artic Trucks in Iceland?


They run in some cases over 40" tyres with the factory IFS setup, but:
1. installing a maximum of a 2" lift
2. Bodylift where required
3. bodymount relocation
4. tubbing of firewall
5. cut the front and rear crossmembers off, relocating them 2" down and 2" further forward and rewelding the space in between backup with infill chassis spacers.

Will you be considering a bodylift to make the 40's work?

If you wanted to try something totaly different and new, have you seen the "Tonka" Hilux developed here locally in Australia by Toyota in conjunction with Marks Adaptors that utilises portal axles front and rear?





With no suspension lift (although they did run upgraded shocks/springs), the portals gave a 4" lift over standard easily allowing 35" tyres to be fitted without trimming.

These "kits" will be available towards the end of this year for the current model Hilux and might be something for you to consider in your build?

Image below shows the additional track width increase over a standard 2017 Hilux as seen on the Tonka test mule.



With the coilovers raised to no more than 2", All Pro Suspension setup/arms,  the additional under belly clearance and track width of portals, some trimming.....I beleive your goals to run 40's would be easily achieved and there'd be nothing else like it anywhere in the world.

40" tyres with portals would almost give you the same under belly clearance as 50" tyres would....think about that for a second.......think about the less stress on the front drivetrain with reduction gears in the hubs coupled with a crawler box.......epic!!!!   :bowdown:

Let me know if you need contact details for Marks Adaptors and I can forward them to you if required.

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Mike,  watching you work your way through the challenges of making the 40's work will be quite interesting, entertaining, and no doubt educational.  :clap:

As you know there will be quite the limitations to overcome to make the 40's work. The All Pro kit no doubt helps as from what I have read, the different upper and lower arms move the hub position 1" further forward than a standard setup allows.   There have been been a couple desert truck 05+ tacoma's I rememebrs that ended up running 37's, but to achieve full tuck, they had to severely chop the bodymount, and tub the firewall.

You may even need to relocate the bodymount 2" further back coupled with a firewall tubbing.  Those fenders will need to be cut open a couple inches more all the way around as well.

No doubt you've heard of Artic Trucks in Iceland?


They run in some cases over 40" tyres with the factory IFS setup, but:
1. installing a maximum of a 2" lift
2. Bodylift where required
3. bodymount relocation
4. tubbing of firewall
5. cut the front and rear crossmembers off, relocating them 2" down and 2" further forward and rewelding the space in between backup with infill chassis spacers.

Will you be considering a bodylift to make the 40's work?

If you wanted to try something totaly different and new, have you seen the "Tonka" Hilux developed here locally in Australia by Toyota in conjunction with Marks Adaptors that utilises portal axles front and rear?





With no suspension lift (although they did run upgraded shocks/springs), the portals gave a 4" lift over standard easily allowing 35" tyres to be fitted without trimming.

These "kits" will be available towards the end of this year for the current model Hilux and might be something for you to consider in your build?

Image below shows the additional track width increase over a standard 2017 Hilux as seen on the Tonka test mule.



With the coilovers raised to no more than 2", All Pro Suspension setup/arms,  the additional under belly clearance and track width of portals, some trimming.....I beleive your goals to run 40's would be easily achieved and there'd be nothing else like it anywhere in the world.

40" tyres with portals would almost give you the same under belly clearance as 50" tyres would....think about that for a second.......think about the less stress on the front drivetrain with reduction gears in the hubs coupled with a crawler box.......epic!!!!   :bowdown:

Let me know if you need contact details for Marks Adaptors and I can forward them to you if required.


:love:
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redneckcustoms13

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Sorry to aid in losing track Mike.

Holy cow i just fell in love. Portals on a taco!!!! I need this!
83 long bed 2wd sas, 3rz, w56, duals with 4.7 rear, 4.88 elock front, spartan rear, 39.5 iroks
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Sorry to aid in losing track Mike.

Holy cow i just fell in love. Portals on a taco!!!! I need this!

right? why aren't we funding this?
1996 Jeep ZJ Laredo Daily/Weekend Wheeler
5.2L V8, 44RE, NP249, 33X12.50R15s on MT Classics, 5.5in Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path F/R

Trailer Build http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103261

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Sorry to aid in losing track Mike.
 

Im sorry too Mike.....would love to see these on your Taco!  Heres a quick detailed in depth video tour of the Tonka Portal Hilux I took when I had an intimate moment with it a couple months back. You can clearly see the how the portal setup is fitted up. (Note: the suspension on the front is set pretty low hence the front end "squat" look)

https://www.instagram.com/p/BVo5x17jJjR/

And a closer up pic:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BUf-_4yjsfp/


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did I miss the part with the 37s on allied beadlocks? Big Mike did you just jump from 33s to 40s? Truck is going to look killer  :thumbs:

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did I miss the part with the 37s on allied beadlocks? Big Mike did you just jump from 33s to 40s? Truck is going to look killer  :thumbs:

I predict an unexpected twist of 40s going on a diet.
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Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

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Do you still have the factory 4.3 gears?
Yes, I still have them laying out back. The Tacoma's new 8.75" rear end might be different from yours?

No doubt you've heard of Artic Trucks in Iceland?
...
Will you be considering a bodylift to make the 40's work?
Thank you for the comments and pics Hilux_Man. Yes I have heard about these trucks. They are pretty badass for glacier exploring. I'm gonna try to make it work without a body lift.

If you wanted to try something totaly different and new, have you seen the "Tonka" Hilux
Yes, I have seen pictures and videos of the Tonka Hilux plus a few other (equally ugly looking) Tonka Toyota truck builds (including the most ugly 4Runner I've ever seen in my life). I actually have been looking into making my own IFS portal setup :D but nothing to share at the moment. One thing is that I do not like how they designed their kit. I'm expecting some unknown roadblock that required them to make what appears to be poor design choices from the surface. But then again this whole Tonka craze is a poor design choice so.... All I'd like to say now is that I will be investigating it further this winter.
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July 7, 2017: Stage 2 has officially begun! (continued): Finally finished the ARBs

Since we were on the subject of differentials the thread will be happy to know I finally got my ARB air lockers hooked up :D

To be honest the main reason why I've procrastinated on this is because I am a big fan of belt-driven compressors.

I've never liked electric compressors. Belt driven compressors, such as the uber powerful Chrysler RV-2, which flows more air than a valve stem meaning the compressor will cycle off even while airing up a tire, which has a longer stroke & larger bore than the popular York compressor, which has an integrated oil pump so you can rev it up without it burning up, and finally which I have mounted to my Hilux's 3RZ-FE but never finished the project >_<, ...can output in excess of 15 CFM which is many times better than the average electric compressor of only around 2-3 CFM. It's so cool to have a powerful on board air system where you can air up truck after truck after truck. Moreover, I know 40" tires are going to take f-o-r-e-v-e-r with an electric compressor...

Well, after having evaluated how I'm going to mount an air compressor to the engine.....whew it's a mess in there. No wonder I've always liked 4 cyls. There is little precious engine compartment room with this 6 cyl. The main issue is that each timing cover overhangs the belt line of the engine rendering accessories mounted about 50% or higher on the engine requiring some sort of double-offset pulley arrangement making it far more difficult. Then you've got the width of a V engine that takes up any side-to-side space you'd normally have have an inline 4. Then to mount the RV-2 down low, which is a wide Twin V 2cyl pump, is impossible due to interference with each frame rail. Not good.

Fast forward to a few months ago and the keen obsever would have noticed I used an electric compressor for Moab back at page 12 reply #350:


This is ARB's semi-new "Maximum performance" air compressor that they offer in an easy to carry box. This compressor is a pair of High Output motors+compressors mounted together in parallel. We sell this by itself, but having a compressor kit with tank in a box is so useful that the shop bought this one for employees to use. For the small 33" All Terrains, this max performance compressor actually kicked some serious booty. It would air up from 10 PSI to 40 PSI in about 3 minutes per tire which I thought was quite impressive for an electric compressor. Grated, this is only a 33" not aired down too far and with a large 17" rim taking up more volume, but impressed nonetheless. As for 40s that I'll surely air down as low as 3 PSI... I have no doubt it's going to be painfully slow to air up.

But it is a viable option. So here is what I've decided to do:
1. Get and mount a normal ARB High Output compressor (info on our site) in the engine bay (not my favorite location due to heat) and use that to run the lockers.
2. Carry this Max Performance compressor box around to air up my tires for now.
3. Eventually get my own Max Performance compressor (info on our site) and mount it under the bed along with maybe a 5 gallon air tank.
4. Then, to air up my tires, knowing I've got the V6 towing package's upgraded high amp alternator, I'll run all three compressor motors (High Output = 1 + Max Performance = 2) at the same time which ought to do okay.

Calculating ARB's documentation across both compressor kits, at 0 PSI, 3 X High Output Compressors will be about 8.5 CFM and at 30 PSI they will be about 6.8 CFM. This is actually not much lower than a standard York compressor so actually..... surprisingly this might work out decently.
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First step was where to mount it in the engine bay. I first began looking in the passenger A-pillar corner to get it up high...but then I'd have more wiring to do and space constraints weren't so good there. Then I looked to place it as close to the battery as possible and found a perfect spot between it and the driver's headlight.





This does put it low but I can always add an extension hose for the compressor's air filter later. I do like how the compressor is shielded from heat by the battery and cooled by air through the headlight housing.

Removed all the inner fender trim to expose the fender wall.



Drilled four holes for the bracket



Nice fit in here. I like how the space is being utilized.



Look'n good! I used our 5mm black air line because, again, going back to my disgust with air lockers, I'd rather people just not know I had them and the iconic blue ARB lines are a dead give-a-way so screw that

« Last Edit: Aug 31, 2017, 11:37:52 AM by BigMike »
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An issue I see all the time with ARBs is a rock smashing a line or a line melting from exhaust. Once you have a leak you no longer have lockers. I've already built an emergency air locker repair kit which includes an extra solenoid, air line, and an air splice.

So I took advantage of protection wherever possible and routed the line for the rear locker through the frame rail. I did this in two steps. First I fed the line through the driver's side frame rail and exited it out this slot near the exhaust. Then I continued running it back through the same slot and once out past the brake line components I pulled the loop through enclosing the line fully inside the frame rail.

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With the lines routed the last step was to mount the switches.

I'm a bit undecided on what to do here. I've never liked large rocker switches but the Tacoma has them everywhere plus the aftermarket makes a gazillion different rocker switches for light bars, GPS, CB, etc. custom printed rocker covers. So I'll probably keep the ARB rocker switches. For now I decided to mount them with as little modification as possible so that should I decide to move them in the future I could restore things back to stock.

The decision was made to sacrifice the left side cubby hole for the switches. I began working on a model to 3D print but then figured I could just cut the back side of the cubby hole to route the wires and should I remove them I the hole wouldn't affect the use of the cubby.

Taking the left side of the dash apart



Routing the wires through the cubby



Here is the extremely simple modification to ARB's harness to allow the front locker to be engaged without the rear locker -- EXTREMELY useful and I'd argue entirely necessary for wheeling. I understand why ARB does it the way they do which from a business perspective is better for warranty and reliability concerns. Just connect the power-in for the front locker switch directly to the power-in of the rear switch. Done.



Because this is temporary (lol whatever that means) I just placed small cutouts of cardboard between each switch and wrapped them with tape compressing the cardboard for a nice firm block of switches.
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