Topic: Wheel Spacers FAQ

[waskillywabbit]

Going to get some 1.5" wheel spacers to go on the front 85 Toy axle to match the rear 86 Toy axle, already ordered them from Marlin with my new billet steering arms, and I've read 1.8 bazillion posts on wheel spacers.  They seem to be okay as long as you aren't a moron and never bother to retighten them.  Here is what I would like to know...and couldn't find elsewhere...

Which color locktite should I use on the spacer studs to the hub?

What torque for the spacer studs to the hub?

Any special torque setting for steel wheels to aluminum wheel spacers?

What are the recommended intervals for rechecking the spacer studs to the hub?

Thanks!

 

[FatAzzRunner]

I run the 2" Marlin spacers on each corner. 

My personal way of doing it was this...........


Use RED locktite.

I didnt torgue anything.

I used a 4 way and tightened the studs to the axles till it didnt budge anymore

then I tightened the wheels to the spacers in the same fashion.

I have checked em twice and could only budge a couple of the nuts out of all of them but just barely at that.

I think your biggest factor is if you are running aluminum wheels on the Marlin aluminum spacers, aluminum is soft and will settle a bit more.

My wheels are steel so mayber that is why I have had no problems.

[GrimReaper]

I torqued them to 90lb. Plan was to check them at 100 miles. First trip out on the way back one came off at 65mph (rear wheel on K5). Losing a 35 inch tire at 6 mph will get the old ticker going.

 The tire kept going through a median on a divided hwy at a intersection. Light had just turned green and everybody that was moving managed to dodge  it. It travel about 1/8 and nailed a Ford ranger right in the door that was stopped at the intersection. It hit it and launched that 90 lb tire straight up in the air about 15ft. The guy driving saw it coming. His wife in the passenger seat was like a deer i the headlights and just froze. He grabbed her head and pulled her away from the door thank god or she would have had a face full of glass.  DESTROYED the door. Tire still was going about 40mph when it hit. A 35 inch BFG on a Steel rock crawler 15x8 is 90lb. That tires did $2100 lb in damage to that truck. Why it wasn't totaled I don't know. It was a very clean truck but blue book was $2600.

 I haven't had the nerve to put them on again.  I'll be doing the IFS hub swap to avoid having that spacer between the rim and flange.

 Word of caution and this was probably a contributing factor was I did not clean the hub surface. Sand any rust or crud on the hub off so that it will get a good clean surface to seat on.

[Fireimp141]

was ure rear axle and drum/hub and stuff destroyed?

[waskillywabbit [OP]]

I run the 2" Marlin spacers on each corner. 

My personal way of doing it was this...........


Use RED locktite.

I didnt torgue anything.

I used a 4 way and tightened the studs to the axles till it didnt budge anymore

then I tightened the wheels to the spacers in the same fashion.

I have checked em twice and could only budge a couple of the nuts out of all of them but just barely at that.

I think your biggest factor is if you are running aluminum wheels on the Marlin aluminum spacers, aluminum is soft and will settle a bit more.

My wheels are steel so mayber that is why I have had no problems.

I'm going to be running steel rims for sure, already got them, and I'll be sure to clean off the flange well before putting the spacers on.

How did your 5" extreme lift go?  I'm working on mine now and have had a few issues like the front shock hoops, the steering arms and a few other things.

I haven't had the nerve to put them on again.  I'll be doing the IFS hub swap to avoid having that spacer between the rim and flange.

Word of caution and this was probably a contributing factor was I did not clean the hub surface. Sand any rust or crud on the hub off so that it will get a good clean surface to seat on.

Holy crap!  I bet the recipient of that tire was flipping out!  What is the IFS hub swap as that is a new one to me?

As I stated above, I'll probably clean the hub surface real well and check the bolts/nuts frequently for a while until the spacers get seated.

[FatAzzRunner]

I had some issues to as there was no description of what to do with many of the parts in  the whole setup.

That is one of the reasons I have had such a hard time with one of the OLD All-Pro employees who is no longer there but here with MC.

I called and tried to get ideas or answers and was told by this person in particular that "I had no business trying to build my own truck." a
and when I said, "listen, I have spent a good amount of money with you guys and all I am asking for is a little help since your directions leave something to be desired."

That same employee then told me, "You only spent 3000 bucks with us, we have people that spend 10K everyday and you are not going to have a rockcrawler only spending 3000 bucks.  He then said, I need to hire a professional because I obviously have no idea what I was doing."

All this was after my order was completely hosed up and screwed up and it took me over a month and a half to get parts in that should have come in at the same time.

Then that same employee from AP (no longer there but here) told me it was my fault and that I must have thrown my lift parts away.    :bull crap:

[FatAzzRunner]

I forgot to answer your question due to my soap box.

the shock hoops are not all that bad.  Dont weld the braces on till AFTER you weld on the hoop as you may get them up too high to get them to weld to the top of the frame.  As far as the steering arms, what do you need to know??


PM me with further questions if you want to. 

[GrimReaper]

was ure rear axle and drum/hub and stuff destroyed?

It was rear. The drum cocked sideways a little and locked and stopped spinning. Thankfully I had presence of hind to coast it down and did not put any aggressive inputs into the truck. I was on asphalt and its a lot softer then concrete. While I did grind a flat spot into the drum I also carved a line into the road. LOL. Once I got down to about 15mph I rolled off into the median. Never hit the brakes just coasted. 

 A buddy was right behind me and said "even in the day light the spark show was impressive".   I was able to remove the wheel spacers (and yet the other side was already loose) and bolt it all back together.

I went to get a picture of the drum but the flat spot is not where I can get a picture. I'm using those drums to set the rear of my camper on right now. I converted to disc shortly after it happened.

Holy crap!  I bet the recipient of that tire was flipping out!  What is the IFS hub swap as that is a new one to me?

You can take the hubs off a IFS front end and they will bolt on to the Sold front axle but they are offset more. You sill use a spacer but the spacer is between the Rotor and hub not the hub and wheel.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=173918&page=1
Halfway down is the IFS swap info.

[waskillywabbit [OP]]

I run the 2" Marlin spacers on each corner. 

My personal way of doing it was this...........


Use RED locktite.

I didnt torgue anything.

I used a 4 way and tightened the studs to the axles till it didnt budge anymore

then I tightened the wheels to the spacers in the same fashion.

I have checked em twice and could only budge a couple of the nuts out of all of them but just barely at that.

I think your biggest factor is if you are running aluminum wheels on the Marlin aluminum spacers, aluminum is soft and will settle a bit more.

My wheels are steel so mayber that is why I have had no problems.

Red loctite is supposedly permanent and heat is needed to remove it.  What about taking the spacers/hub back off if I bust a birf on the trail? 

[BigMike]

I just put some 1.5" on my truck. But my front brakes are not vented yet, so I had no way to hold the axle while torquing it. I wanted to torque it to 90 ft-lbs, but instead just gave 'em a couple hits with the ol' impact. Decided it was good, then put the wheel on and put the truck back on the ground, and then I torqued my wheels to 90 ft-lbs...

Then I had to take the tires off when I got my 33"s so I checked the spacer bolts again with the impact and everything was a-ok. Then I torqued my new tires back to 90 ft-lbs.

I am not using any loctite.

I see no problem with wheel spacers or my tires coming off. As you check everything the same day, you should be fine. I drive down the street and back, and then retorque them immediately. That's really all you need to do.

[Hyena]

You don't need to take the wheel spacer off when you take your hub/axle apart.

[waskillywabbit [OP]]

  Just test fit my 16" rims and the spacers will be a must anyway to clear the high steer, so now to go get some RED loc tite.

Thanks again!

[FatAzzRunner]

If you plan on driving your rig everyday, I would use loctite.

Use blue if you dont feel like you can out power red.  But if you drive it daily, I would definately use some.

There are stories all over the other boards about guys who use their junk for daily driving who have had wheels come off driving down the road.

If you are only gonna use it for trail, then there is not really a need for loctite, just check em every once in a while.

[waskillywabbit [OP]]

Word of caution and this was probably a contributing factor was I did not clean the hub surface. Sand any rust or crud on the hub off so that it will get a good clean surface to seat on.

Cleaning the hub surface.  How much cleaning is necessary?  I was thinking of just wiping them down with some acetone or brake cleaner and scraping off any gunk and then Red loc titing them on there and torqueing to at least 90 ft-lbs.  How's that sound?

[FatAzzRunner]

Sounds good to me, hell, I just sprayed brake cleaner on the face, took a towel(wife was pissed) and cleaned off the wheel studs to the loctite would stick to something and stuck em on.

[GrimReaper]

Word of caution and this was probably a contributing factor was I did not clean the hub surface. Sand any rust or crud on the hub off so that it will get a good clean surface to seat on.

Cleaning the hub surface.  How much cleaning is necessary?  I was thinking of just wiping them down with some acetone or brake cleaner and scraping off any gunk and then Red loc titing them on there and torqueing to at least 90 ft-lbs.  How's that sound?

Sand it back to clean steel. Any chunks of rust will cause it not to make a tight seat. This is a basic rule on any new wheels as well. The hub must the clean and free of rust and anything that would prevent a good full contact with the rim/spacer. I used a disc sander on a drill when I did my disc brake conversion and needed to install the new rotors. took all of 2 minutes with the studs out.