Author Topic: 00 Tacoma Release fork /Transmission and Clucth assembly problems 2  (Read 6335 times)

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Dark Chaos

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It is only two days away before my Toy goes into the shop for my Clutch assembly and Transmission woes. Upon inspection when I heard the squeak and difficulty shifting I immediately pulled off the road and noticed my Clutch release fork was shaking up and down I am not very experienced with Transmissions and I understand there has to be some play but I do not believe that this much play is needed to make the Clutch release fork shake like this. Experienced Toy mechanics please help.

Marlin

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The main cause of a shaking fork is due to warped, worn, or bent pressure plate fingers.
This could be caused by overheating the pressure plate due to abuse or when the trans was installed, the input shaft may of hit the fingers and bent then inward resulting in a uneven pressure plate height.

The flywheel could also have excessive runout. It can only be surfaced on a flywheel grinder by using the crankshaft hub area of the flywheel. Never attemp to surface a flywheel on a lathe. It will always have runout.

Marlin
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

Dark Chaos

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Thanks Marlin for replying to my post as soon as I find out if it is not covered under the vehicles warranty I will be ordering your clutch kit as soon as I get some money. Until then if I continue to drive my truck in the state it is in will there be any significant damage done?

Marlin

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I would say no.
As long as the clutch is not slipping on hard acceleration once the clutch pedal is fully released, there should still be some life left in it.
I have driven many miles with a warped pressure plate :driving:

Marlin
« Last Edit: Jul 08, 2004, 12:44:02 AM by Marlin »
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

Dark Chaos

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It is amazing I went to two different Toyota dealerships and they both said there is nothing wrong with it. Me and the mechanic went for a ride I said you do not hear that chripping he said all I here is the tires humming I showed him the shaking clutch release fork he told me it is supposed to do that. At least they did not charge me Thank you for your help.

Marlin

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It is normal for a small amount of fork movement due to endplay in the crankshaft thrust washers and uneven pressure plate diaphram fingers.
If you have excessive fork shaking, besides the noise, if the clutch is still grabbing get in it and drive it :driving:

To test your clutch strength, I take off in first gear and slightly overrev the engine before I push in the clutch pedal to shift into third gear. By missing 2nd gear and reving the engine up a little before releasing the clutch pedal quicker than normal, it is possible to test the bite of the clutch assm.

If the engine quickly slows down to the speed of the truck, your clutch still has some good life left.
When the engine continues to rev, or takes a few secounds to slow down to the slower spining trans, than it is just a matter of time before it needs to be replaced.

Marlin

« Last Edit: Jul 08, 2004, 01:12:28 AM by Marlin »
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

Skinny_Pedal

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wish i would have know that when i did my clutch. when i had it done the guy told me there was still life left in it :mad:
Im an OG

Dark Chaos

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One every one hears the name MARLIN!! they should :bowdown: :hahaha: I am going to go try it out then I will post my results

Dark Chaos

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I tested it out on flat pavement. The truck slowed down nicely Thanks Marlin

84runner

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It is normal for a small amount of fork movement due to endplay in the crankshaft thrust washers and uneven pressure plate diaphram fingers.
If you have excessive fork shaking, besides the noise, if the clutch is still grabbing get in it and drive it :driving:

To test your clutch strength, I take off in first gear and slightly overrev the engine before I push in the clutch pedal to shift into third gear. By missing 2nd gear and reving the engine up a little before releasing the clutch pedal quicker than normal, it is possible to test the bite of the clutch assm.

If the engine quickly slows down to the speed of the truck, your clutch still has some good life left.
When the engine continues to rev, or takes a few secounds to slow down to the slower spining trans, than it is just a matter of time before it needs to be replaced.

Marlin



Not being a smart  :moon: here so what your saying Marlin is wind it up to try and bark or get a second gear scratch and if it winds out with clutch out but don't seem to be accelerating much then you clutch is slipping ?
RUBICON TESTED BIG BALLS APPROVED

 
 
 
 
 

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