Author Topic: spring hanger kit or SAS kit (Read 2889 times)

toby · « **on:** Sep 25, 2007, 04:48:03 PM »

O.K. I am considering doing a SAS on my 87 truck, but money is a little tight. Should I buy the front spring hanger kit, try to find an axle and springs on the cheap, steering components as well. I would like to buy the full SAS kit but I will never be able to afford the $1450 for the kit. My third option keep the ifs, but it sucks offroad. If I go with the hanger kit what else will I need, besides axle springs, and steering?

iNfErNaL · « **Reply #1 on:** Sep 25, 2007, 04:58:27 PM »

Quote from: toby on Sep 25, 2007, 04:48:03 PM

If I go with the hanger kit what else will I need, besides axle springs, and steering?

That's pretty much all you need plus shocks.What do you plan on doing with the steering?.Hy-Steer?,or are you gonna put a push-pull steering box in it?.Personaly I would save up and buy a complete kit,it'll all work with itself as opposed to trying to make everything work.Most people will probably tell you to buy the hanger,run rears up front,buy some hy-steer arms and make your own tie rod and drag link......I guess I wasn't really any help.

Black Runner · « **Reply #2 on:** Sep 25, 2007, 05:41:45 PM »

Start collecting cans for the SAS!

89toy · « **Reply #3 on:** Sep 25, 2007, 07:04:50 PM »

Quote from: Infernal on Sep 25, 2007, 04:58:27 PM

That's pretty much all you need plus shocks.What do you plan on doing with the steering?.Hy-Steer?,or are you gonna put a push-pull steering box in it?.Personaly I would save up and buy a complete kit,it'll all work with itself as opposed to trying to make everything work...

X2

THK Matt · « **Reply #4 on:** Sep 25, 2007, 10:30:27 PM »

look for my post somewhere... this has been gone over what you need ill try and find and quote it for you.

THK Matt · « **Reply #5 on:** Sep 25, 2007, 10:33:27 PM »

here's my topic post.... read over.

toby · « **Reply #6 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 10:17:51 AM »

OK, so basically< I can go with a hanger kit. Find an axle and some springs. I don't really think I need to lift it at this point, I have a 3" body lift on it now. I can run push pull steering until I can afford hi steer. Need longer brake lines, shocks, can I run shocks in there stock location until I can get hoops? Am I missing anything?
I had it out this weelend and it wouldn't flex enough to make it up simple looking obstacles. Would a rear locker make much of a difference in these situations. Basically it will flex a little lift a tire and sit and spin.
BTW Thanks for the info.

89toy · « **Reply #7 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 10:20:21 AM »

Quote from: toby on Sep 26, 2007, 10:17:51 AM

...I had it out this weelend and it wouldn't flex enough to make it up simple looking obstacles. Would a rear locker make much of a difference in these situations. Basically it will flex a little lift a tire and sit and spin.
BTW Thanks for the info.

Yup, I bought my 79 with open diffs and in one evening put in 4.7's in the t-case and welded the rear and it made an amazing difference for what I could climb. Completely stock except for t-case.

iNfErNaL · « **Reply #8 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 11:04:44 AM »

Quote from: toby on Sep 26, 2007, 10:17:51 AM

OK, so basically< I can go with a hanger kit. Find an axle and some springs. I don't really think I need to lift it at this point, I have a 3" body lift on it now. I can run push pull steering until I can afford hi steer. Need longer brake lines, shocks, can I run shocks in there stock location until I can get hoops? Am I missing anything?
I had it out this weelend and it wouldn't flex enough to make it up simple looking obstacles. Would a rear locker make much of a difference in these situations. Basically it will flex a little lift a tire and sit and spin.
BTW Thanks for the info.

Personally,I'd wait untill you can do it right,that way you don't do the work twice,you're gonna swap in the push-pull steering box and then swap in the IFS box when you do the high-steer,no big deal but I would still wait.It sounds like the problem you have is with traction.Doing a solid axle swap and running stock springs isn't gonna make a huge difference or give you more traction.I would buy a locker or a spool for the rear and keep it IFS for now,it'll make more of a noticeable difference,then when you have the money,do a complete kit.

toby · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 12:20:16 PM »

Anyone have a 4 cyl locker they want to sell cheap? I am thinking of doing an Aussie locker. I don't want to weld it or spool it. because it gets driven on the street frequently.

THK Matt · « **Reply #10 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 01:27:03 PM »

Quote from: Infernal on Sep 26, 2007, 11:04:44 AM

Personally,I'd wait untill you can do it right,that way you don't do the work twice,you're gonna swap in the push-pull steering box and then swap in the IFS box when you do the high-steer,no big deal but I would still wait.It sounds like the problem you have is with traction.Doing a solid axle swap and running stock springs isn't gonna make a huge difference or give you more traction.I would buy a locker or a spool for the rear and keep it IFS for now,it'll make more of a noticeable difference,then when you have the money,do a complete kit.

X2

ghetto_wheeler · « **Reply #11 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 01:33:33 PM »

just weld that pregnant dog i dd all day long on a lincon locker go in parkin lots bark tires everywere and piss everyone off lol

toby · « **Reply #12 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 08:49:33 PM »

I really don't want to end up somewhere with busted rear end.

89toy · « **Reply #13 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 08:58:30 PM »

Quote from: toby on Sep 26, 2007, 08:49:33 PM

I really don't want to end up somewhere with busted rear end.

Don't blame you (although a lot I know of have lasted an extremely long time). When I welded my rear it was on a trail only rig. Also, even though a cop can't tell, I think a welded rear is not street legal (in Texas).

I would say save up for a locker and see how you like it. Then you can move onto solid axle (which I would save up for the kit like infernal and others said). If you go step by step (locker in the rear, gears in t-case, solid axle) your wheeling skills will be great by the time you are done. Just my

yota_krawler · « **Reply #14 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 09:04:45 PM »

Don't weld, if you want a full time locker get a spool. I had 2 weled by 2 differant people and broke both of them. I have a lockrite now but I am getting a spool asap. but thats my

toby · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 09:34:48 PM »

I think I am going to save up and buy an Aussie locker. I don't really want a spool in it. Then I may go 4.88's and 33's. Solid axle will be somewhere in the future. I have a hard time $1450 plus an axle into a $700 truck.

norcalyoter · « **Reply #16 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 09:45:26 PM »

get the spring hanger kit and go with rears in the front and chevys in the rear if you on a budget you can usually get 2 sets of stock rears for less than a 100 and same for the chevys then get high steer which is the most expensive thing next to the axle

yota_krawler · « **Reply #17 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 09:48:33 PM »

Aussie is the same thing as a lockrite and I hate mine. I would rather be locked full time. The lockrite has a mind of its own, it doesnt know when to lock or when to be unlocked, I have also had one tire fire with it and it shouldnt do that. I paid 300 and would have much rather paid 200 for a spool, if it is going to be a trail truck then just get a spool. A locker is meant to lock so when you want it to work it doesnt, and when you want it not to work they work. It is very annoying,

jimbo74 · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 09:55:46 PM »

Quote from: Yota_Krawler on Sep 26, 2007, 09:48:33 PM

meant to lock so when you want it to work it doesnt, and when you want it not to work they work. It is very annoying

thats sounds more like a limited slip than a locker.....

yota_krawler · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 10:55:53 PM »

I know huh. It is a lockrite I put it in my self I hate it!!! When it engages or disengages it pops and sounds like my thrid exploded,

iNfErNaL · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 26, 2007, 11:00:50 PM »

Quote from: Yota_Krawler on Sep 26, 2007, 10:55:53 PM

When it engages or disengages it pops and sounds like my thrid exploded,

LOL,yup that's a Lockrite allright.My cousin had one in his Sami back in the day and the very first time I heard it I thought something had broke,LOL.

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #21 on:** Sep 27, 2007, 08:21:11 AM »

X153 Do it right the 1st time you'll thank everyone in the end.

I've done several different locker setups, don't like airlockers they will let you down one day and it'll be when you want them the most, I love Detroit's, Aussie's are great, had no issues with my Lockrite's (except for that scary moment when they do unload), and ran a welded 3rd on the street forever and had no issues at all (if it is welded right you'll snap an axle before you ever break the welds). There are several good welded axle buildups here, Willy Mammoth just did a real good one for the Amigo that is bulletproof, bombproof and may even outlast the human race.

Black Runner · « **Reply #22 on:** Sep 28, 2007, 02:26:16 PM »

Aussie's are a good choice for traction on a budget. I've got one in my Ranger and I just put one up front on my 4Runner. Worked great during MCR6. Way better than lockrites.
Just my

subliminaltrips · « **Reply #23 on:** Sep 28, 2007, 03:44:49 PM »

i just ordered an aussie for the front of my 84 i have a detroit in the rear. honestly a welded rear isnt that bad and if you are going to weld it take the carrier out of the housing, remove the ring gear and bearings and use some brake cleaner to degrease it before you weld it. once you weld it forget about putting in a lunchbox locker. if your going to tear it down to that point you might as well get a lunchbox anyways. that or weld it and save for a detroit.

toby [OP]

toby [OP]

toby [OP]

toby [OP]

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